sholdowa

Has anyone got one I can borrow for a week or so??

Cheers,

Steve

It's pretty easy, although easier with a mate...

1. If the car is diving when brakes are applied, then it's the fronts that aren't working - almost certainly a stuck piston on the side that it didn't dive to. Quick and dirty way: Take out one of the pads, and insert a tyre lever. lever the piston out, making sure the master cylinder doesn't overflow. Then use the brake pedal to tighten up on the tyre lever - making sure the MC doesn't empty. Do that a few times, then replace that brake pad and do the same for the other side. It the rubber dust cover on the piston is perished, it's worth oiling the piston with some brake fluid as you're doing this.

( obviously, it's really time to rebuild the caliper )

2. If it's not diving ( or not much ), then do the same with the back brakes if they're discs. If drum, then take the drums off ( usually easier said than done ) and inspect the slave cylinders for leaks, and the shoes for gunge. Usually replacing the slaves is the easiest/cheapest option, but they can be rebuilt if rare.

Once that's done, it's always good to bleed them. If they're sticking, then they probably havent been touched in a few years, and the fluid will be wet = fading.

But it is better to get calipers rebuilt... it's pretty easy, but everything must be very clean.

does anyone know of a cheap way of getting this lot over here???

http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewt ... p?id=15972

If so, I'll work on selling a kidney...

I went around repco today, and the only dot-4 available was their own brand. At under $20 /litre, it doesn't seem to be too expensive to use that. I'll look out for the shiny Castrol stuff tho.

I used to get 27-30mpg out of a mk.2 Ghia. Google tells me that it's 9.5 - 10.5 km/l. Mk.2 tank is 9 real gallons = 41 litres. = $90 of weasel piss. So you had $20 left.

Unless you're miles from anywhere, then it would have been bone dry.

Not yet please JoKer.

I've read lots about this, and would really like other opinions. The advantages AIUI is that DOT-5 will last the odd decade, is non-hygroscopic and leaves your paintwork alone.

The stuff I've googled suggests that it's a pretty easy job, which is why I've asked for opinions.

The jensen is really sulking from being ignored for a couple of months. On the way back from getting new tyres ( thanks cul8r, the steering is transformed! ), brakes went straight to the floor down Dyers Pass. Couple of pumps and they stopped quick as ever.

So, time to flush and refill the braking system. I've been reading up and most people seem to think it's a good idea, and 'fairly' simple to upgrade to DOT-5 ( just turn the caliper upside down as the silicone fluid is lighter ). What do those with experience in this think???

Cheers,

Steve

Inty had one as standard - that was 4WD - at the end of the fanymold

Turns out it was nothing of the kind...

There was a bad conncection in the ignition feed. Only broke when a) the engine was hot, and you revved it, and the block moved. Found it by moving it and the engine died.

POR15 do a pretty good fuel tank sealant if this becomes a regular issue.

Slant four Jensen Healey?

Thanks UJ. Will bear that in mind. Yes, it's a Lotus 907. One of my favourite engines of all time...

looks like it was one of the fuel filters causing grief. drained it, ignition on and a dribble became a spurt!

Hi HiLux, I thought that, bit I've mixed what was left with 2 x new stuff. Joker, I will be checking the filters ( there are at least two! ) and the pressure regulator. Unfortunately by thumb, as I haven' got a gauge handy... just as soon as I can get away fro this bloody computer...

Otherwise, I'll have to miss tomorrow's appointment with Cul8r.

So, started up the Jensen after a few months under wraps. Will idle ok, but any more and it just dies. Attempt number 26 got it up the drive, and I went for a quick run around the block. Then it just died. Like it had no fuel. Pump the throttle a few times and it'll start and idle happily again.

So I'm thinking fuel starvation. I haven't done anything except swear at it so far. It's got one of those Facet solid state fuel pumps that's ticking away pretty fast behind me. Is there anywhere I can hit it with a large hammer to ensure it's actually pumping properly? I'm going to check the state of the 2 fuel filters, and the throughput at the carbies tomorrow, just enquiring on where to smack the pump in case it's whingeing after it's 2 month sleep...

Cheers,

Steve

I'd look at the teeth on the flywheel. Maybe jamming on. The original Rover SD1's used to this... and the starter would eventually explode spectacularly.

running on 5?

Please don't re-use the flywheel bolts... I speak from experience.

Ah... you did mean Mk.1 *disk* struts, didn't you??? You can't convert drum struts.

Only had an ordinary petrol territory. Was OK, but no way is it a proper 4wd... although my yardsitck is my old Integrale (: Nothing special. As i don't need that many seats - just a big boot, now have a 2006 A6. Apart from the arseholes at Archibalds, it's infinitely better in every way ( now I've found my neighbours brother services Audis, things could get better! ) . Volvo = Ford, so should be cheaper to run?? Just don't expect anything properly 4WD about it.

they're the same... so yes. 2.8 vented's are good, with a spacer in your calipers.

They are expensive though, smaller pulleys are a lot cheaper.. I think this more what he was getting at?

Larger, surely??

If it kept spinning i'd be more worried..

Best thing to do, whip wheels off and push pads back into the calipers, if they go in with no more than hydraulic pressure they legit.

If they are stiff, remove pad, spray piston with crc, and remove crud from visible part of piston and rotate whilst forcing in.

better living everyone

I just use a tyre lever to push them back, then pedal to push them back against the tyre lever, rinse and repeat until they behave themselves...bit of brake fluid on the exposed piston.

From what I remember, I used to pump the throttle 5 times before trying to start it, and then baby it to get it idling. That was without a choke.

Had the same problem over winter with one of the RS2's in my avatar. It was only when I burned the starter out that I found the 12V feed for the coil had fallen off.

Let me know if you want hosting.

Yea the earth is good. Guess i should try another place though. I have it bolted at the manifold. Fuel? Not yet just trying to get a spark by touching the spark plug on an earth.

Do you get a spark across the points if you manually open them?