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SR ROLLA

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Posts posted by SR ROLLA

  1. So, cleaned up all the connections on the circuit board with superfine sandpaper and re-tested. The lights all come on now, yay! Except for 2, boo.

     

    I have gauges, door open light, hand brake on light but nothing from the top 2 corners. Working from the back of the gauges, so I can see when they light up, I tried swapping the bulbs around, different bulbs, turning the holders around… nothing works. They don't come on with parks, headlights, high beams, nothing. Have another look back at the front of the cluster… they're the bulbs for the indicators. Facepalm, I'm officially retarded.

     

    So good news, right? everything goes now, right? In daylight I properly refitted the whole dash, speedo cable, all the switches, cigarette lighter etc and TA DAH! None of the gauge lights work. Fuck. The indicators, door open, hand brake etc lights all still go, but nothing for the dials. I found a blown fuse (for the taillights, which apparently also covers the gauge lights), swapped it out and my gauges have life!

     

    …except not the petrol gauge or the central light between speedo and tacho. So I'll run out of petrol driving at night and I can only see low speeds and high revs.

     

    I guess I'll have to pull it out again and see what's going on.

    • Like 1
  2. While I have my dash out I have replaced the extremely dim old bulbs with new LEDs. It appears that part of the dimness issue was also that quite a few of the bulbs weren't working at all. When I test fitted it to check the new lights it's much brighter but some of them still don't work.

     

    The LEDs are polarised, so I have tried them both ways in their bulb holders. Also the twist in bulb holder can be inserted 2 ways as well but no combination of positions seems to work.

     

    LEDs which work in one of the working sockets don't work when I swap them into one of the non working sockets and vice versa.

     

    The circuit board appears in good condition, so I'm stumped as to why they don't work. Would it have to be a fault somewhere in the wiring of the big, multi-pin plug which brings power to all of these lights? Or is there something else I'm missing?

     

    This is not my area of expertise at all, so any suggestions would be a big help.

     

    Cheers

     

    Crappy pics for reference:

    qdpyzf11.nt5.jpg
     
    lpl1fece.2xj.jpg
     
  3. i was more insulted for the charger side of things sadly. glad your happy with your seats and glad i could help you out. 

    ps just stalked you build thread. wicked stuff man! done a nice job of it!

     

    Ha ha, yeah, about half the size and half the toughness of a Charger, unfortunately for me.

     

     

    The back panels for the seats are awesome! Where did you find material/what did you use to cover was it a print? Kind of hard to tell. What be interested to do something similar down the track.

     

    Just got the fabric from ebay, searched for Hokusai fabric. There were a few different types and sizes, these ones are wall hangings i think

    • Like 1
  4. Thanks guys, good stuff. I think veneer is probably a bit much ball ache, although dwlee's does look super lush. As kyteler points out, what is on there now is fake wood vinyl, so fake wood = legit original finish. Looks like 3M Di-Noc is the thing to try, will order some online and see how I get on and post results.

     

    Cheers.

    • Like 1
  5. Does anyone know where to get decent self-adhesive woodgrain vinyl from? I want to replace the fake woodgrain areas on the dash, centre console etc in my GTO. I want to get nice, thick, wood textured stuff that will last in the sun and heat, not just the thin cover-seal type stuff which will shrink/warp/fade in no time. Like the type you would use on the sides/tailgate of a woodpanel wagon.

     

    Any recommendations?

     

    Cheers

  6. I got a spare set of GS badges for the guards and had a go at tidying them up. Polished up the faces, gave the flaky paint on the sides a gentle wet n dry sand and then resprayed the black. Came up pretty good, the plating is still lightly pitted but they look a lot better than they did and better than the ones currently on the car. I'll swap these on once the new paint job is done.

     

    Before and after:

    g1hoyzhf.ta0.jpg
     
    Doesn't look like that much has changed here but the difference is a lot more apparent in real life.
    • Like 2
  7. Had a couple of little bubbles coming up under the paint on both doors so I decided to get them taken care of properly along with some small patches in the corners of the boot. We found some old, braised repairs in the doors which weren't real hot, so ended up replacing the whole bottom edge of both doors.

    oge5jcvx.jen.jpg

     
     
    I got them to roll up the front guards at the same time too. I had the repairs left in primer because I'll be repainting the whole car soon, sprayed a quick coat of rattle can matt black to weather seal the affected areas for now. So I currently have this sweet custom paint job:
    swsmv0xs.mtz.jpg
     
    mmm.. bogan.
     
     

     

    • Like 2
  8. Cheers guys, I'll give Moonlight Racing a go and see if they can turn anything up. Haven't tried Thailand yet, would be very keen to know how you get on, DriveBy.

    There seem to be a lot of Colt parts available from The Philippines but they didn't get GTOs, it's a bit tricky figuring which stuff is compatible..

  9. I have been searching the internets for ages to try and find obscure rubber seals and bits and pieces I need with no luck. The other day I came across this site here: http://www.impex-jp.com/index.html which seems (google translate is not always great) to be a russian site for ordering Japanese parts.

     

    I haven't had any luck trying to get bits direct from Japan but it shows as having some of the things I need. Has anyone used them before? or even heard of them?

     

    Cheers.

  10. I did wonder about attaching something to the reverse side to hold together the starting split and prevent any of the other seams going the same way, it couldn't hurt. I'll have a chat to the upholstery guy and see what he can do.

     

    Cheers for the offer of the back seat sacrifice, hopefully that wont be needed and I can get something workable sorted without too much hassle.

  11. Cheers, exactly right — a small split starting on the stitched seam of the textured centre panel on the base of the driver's seat. The vinyl is a weird metallic green colour with a faux leather texture. Pretty weird. I've only had one upholstery place look at it so far, all he could suggest was to try and get hold of a rear or passenger seat (which would have had much less use) to rob the material from to replace the centre panel.

    I hadn't thought to try Yahoo Japan yet, that's a good idea.

    Thanks

  12. My driver's seat is starting to show some minor signs of wear and tear. The colour and texture of the vinyl means that repairing/reupholstering them to match the rest of the interior would be pretty much impossible. I'd like to keep the original seats nice and use something else for daily duties. I don't want to modify (and certify) the mounts for a race seat or anything like that because I still want to be able to go back to the original seat. 

     

    What options do I have? Is there such a thing as an adapter of some kind that fits to the bottom of a new seat and can match the original mounts of the car? Or is my only option to try and find another seat from an old Mitsubishi that will fit? The car is a '74 Colt GTO.

     

    Cheers for any suggestions.

  13. Also, I got sick of the squashy steering wheel so upgraded to this:

     

    ucnv4yfu.uti.jpg
     
     
    And this morning some total dickhead was too distracted admiring my car (he claims) that he drove right into the back of it. I was pretty unhappy to say the least. Luckily he was only going slowly, there doesn't appear to be any significant damage, the bumper is snugged up a few mm closer to the body. I'll take it off and make it's all nice and straight but I think it should be fine.
     
    Should be addressing the low properly in the next couple of months as it's still rolling at original nanna spec height. Will get new wheels at the same time. I put the weird Uni-Pex wheels on for now, they look okay, but not great, definitely need more width/less tyre wall.

    Lastly, I really need to get the carbs cleaned up and tuned, anyone know a good carb place? Around New Lynn, Avondale-ish way would be good, or anywhere between there and town where I could drop it off on the way in.

     

    Cheers.

     

    http://oldschool.co....mitsi-colt-gto/

     
    • Like 8
  14. So I bought a whole spare engine for it's extractors, super cheap from a dude who rolled his Colt. Never hurts to have plenty of spare parts I guess… Turns our the extractors were pretty rooted, cracked in a couple of places and evidence of some previous repairs. So I got a set made up, they look like this:

     

    yctl3uhy.dxl.jpg
     
     
    and the rest of the exhaust replaced, now 2 1/4 all the way through, lets the Astron breathe a bit better. Here's a terrible photo:

    5jw4zrlm.ybh.jpg
     
     
    with a nice little double tip:

    iubeiyov.025.jpg
     
    The whole set up sounds great, really nice rumble without being stupid loud.
     
    • Like 9
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