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84_S12

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Posts posted by 84_S12

  1. Solid Rear End models have the H190

    IRS models have the R180

    FJ20ET and CA18DET equipped RS-X models have the R200

    I think you're right to assume the Datsun utes will be the most likely place to find a donor

  2. You'll have a very rear biased soundstage if you use 4" in the front and 6x9" in back. I would go for some splits in the front, ie tweeter that is separated from the woofer and go with the same speaker size (Components will do) in the back as has been said. 6" woofer will give you a stronger midrange, bearing in mind that if you listen to hard rock, this is where the majority of the guitar sound lies in the frequency spectrum. Headunit choice is personal preference mostly from a connectivity point of view as you'll be amping the signal, power output is less of an issue. I would look for aux and usb in, with 2 RCA preouts if possible.

  3. What I don't think the Police (and their minister Judith Collins) understand is that when you kick a dog into the corner, they usually bite back

    Showing this level of discrimination against a large portion of society is going to have long standing negative effects on society. I wonder if they are game enough to start crushing Hotrods and Harleys? Somehow I doubt it

  4. sweet so ring up and i should be able to get out of the bill?

    If you handed in the plates yes. They will be able to tell who the operator was who did the transaction and whether they input the info correctly from the form, including whether or not they changed the "surrendered plates" option to "yes" from the default of "no". VTNZ will no doubt still have the plates stashed away if there is a dispute you could probably set an audit in motion if you really wanted...... Have you spoken to the VTNZ manager? I would recommend this as a first course of action. Use leverage if necessary as really they should be sorting it out due to it being their error not yours

    What if it's been deregistered cos you left it for too long? If you hand in the plates then is it sweet?

    I wouldn't recommend leaving it too long as the debt just gets referred to debt collection agencies

  5. It doesnt matter if you hand in the plate or not. If you owe the government back rego then you will be made to pay it. Its as simple as that.

    Are you an accredited Land Transport New Zealand agent? I am...

    You're right Mutiny they obviously had no idea what they were doing. Ring the helpline tomorrow, explain the story and you should be able to sort it out. 0800 108 809

    If you deregister a vehicle with current registration, you're entitled to a refund following the same process and handing in the plates (Less an administration fee)

  6. I've yet to see a catch can on a car with PCV system hooked up correctly.

    There's supposed to be a flow of air through the crankcase from the outside air to a vacuum source.

    Without that the oil gets contaminated with water, unburnt fuel and acids.

    Steve

    Quoted for truth (+ post #666 :evil: )

    The flow of air through the PCV is factored into the metered airflow in most fuel injection systems, much like plumbed-back blow-off valves and as such if you remove it a/f ratios get out of wack.

  7. Personally I would say it's normal for a catch can setup to breathe a mist of oil vapour and moisture, seeing as that is the point of crankcase ventilation? The vapour normally wouldn't be seen because in most unmodified engines it is being reintroduced to the intake manifold to be burned by the engine. I would be more concerned if your dipstick started blowing out of it's own accord.

  8. Bundy tube, sometimes called Bundy pipe, is type of double-walled low-carbon steel tube manufactured by rolling a copper-coated steel strip through 720 degrees and resistance brazing the overlapped seam in a process called Bundywelding. It may be zinc- or terne- coated for corrosion protection. It is used in automotive hydraulic brake lines in cars manufactured in the USA since the 1930s.

    A 1969 study by the SAE recommended the replacement of Bundy tube with 90-10 copper-nickel alloy UNS C70600 (Kunifer pipe) because of corrosion concerns.[1] Kunifer pipe has since been adopted by European automakers Volvo, Rolls-Royce, Lotus Cars, Aston-Martin, Porsche, and Audi.[2] Bundy pipe retains the advantage higher rigidity, which means less volume expansion under pressure.

    It's commonly found on the back of old domestic fridges too. I hadn't factored in the ductility as a problem, but work hardening and cracking is still the end result.

    Salt on the roads in the USA and Euroland is the reason for not using steel lines according to a brief look at the SAE study findings because they commonly fail within 5-6 years (!!!) so surely if copper nickel lines are fitted to your RX3 and certified in the UK, and manufacturers are fitting them to new vehicles being certified here, they can't knock you out on them?

  9. Copper crystalises and will crack due to vibration over time hence it is unsuitable for use in a motor vehicle, especially on something as critical as brake lines. So bundy tube it is for you mate!

    Case in point - copper tube is used in almost all air conditioning installations except for automotive - where instead aluminium and flexible connections are used.

  10. just thought id add another question on here lol

    so what do i do since my headdeck has no rca input on it?

    and also on another note. the sub/amp (earthquake) in my other car is blowing fuses for some wierd reason.

    was working fine, went to the dairy, coming out the sub just cut out, had a look at it saw it wasnt earthing (earth wire fell out lol) re-earthed it, got some new fuses and it still just wont stop blowing fuses. Electrician says it means my sub is rooted. not keen on buying a 3rd sub + amp, wondering if there is anything else i could try to get it working again

    If all else fails read the thread (Quoted from page one) or simply google search

    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=AA0480&CATID=24&form=CAT&SUBCATID=619

    Use these lnline from speaker level output (It's an attenuator so will drop it down to line level for amplifiers) and run RCAs from these to AMP

    Vibration is really not good for amps or any electronics at all (Waits for Steve to interject) I would seriously consider separating the amp from the sub, but then it may be that your output transistors have failed at which point you might as well replace the whole thing

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