84_S12

1 Find and use a drill press if you can - a hand drill is going to be tricky to control

2 Not too much pressure - you're not drilling steel or wood

3 Keep it cool (spray water or a light dribble from a hose while drilling)

4 Consider drilling from the other side when you're nearly through to reduce the chance of chipping, or reduce the pressure to almost nothing.

5 Profit

Yeah, although above 1/4" they become hole saws

Edit: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Building-renov ... 251565.htm

You could go into business making bongs

Bear in mind that a diamond bit is less like a drill bit and more like a dremel - the goal is to let the bit grind it's way through the glass rather than applying pressure, so don't rush.

If you're not confident, you could just try a glazing company of reputable name?

2.3 Bedford

Duly added to my list of Flickr contacts (I am known by my own name - Ryan - there)

Nice pics I'm very envious. Also, funny to see Kyteler's drool on almost every one of them lol

If you are simply changing the 2 pin plug into each alternator as you replace it, be aware that these may have different polarities between say lucas and mitsi types for example.

I had similar problems when I changed out my original alternator for a refurbished Lucas, cottoned on to the fact that the DC in was always energised even with the ignition turned off. Cut the stupid plug off, put a couple of female spade terminals on and physically swapped the wires on the alternator... Never looked back or had a problem since.

Should roll to Hanmer/That's why I can't come cos that's where I'll be lol

Stupid Ford ignition modules, all to save ten bucks a car....

The ecu could be in limp home mode, try and get fault codes out of it if you can.

Aluminium can be soldered, with solder. It can also be fusion welded with gas. In both instances you need the right flux and temperature control

And why the burntness of the fuse holder?

The fault current was probably many times the fuse rating of the link.

The cost of getting it repaired is going to be more than it's value so I'd just get round to replacing it man

Probably a short across the transistors, assuming it was connected properly and working before it failed.

It made me rofl

Holy fuck a Climatech van lol. Which city are you in?

The analogy is all wrong

Stick your cock up your arse, then piss as hard as you can and see how long you want to keep that up for...

Because an oversize pump will actually recirculate water back on the impeller into the return path so in effect it's doing as fuck all as an undersized pump.

If the pipes wont flow the volume that the pump is trying to push it would be like forcing out a stubborn turd.

QFT

Because an oversize pump will actually recirculate water back on the impeller into the return path so in effect it's doing as fuck all as an undersized pump.

Please review the edited post lol

Bearings take a hammering and so too does the impeller and seals. Put it this way: Energy in = Energy out so if you are putting a lot of electrical energy into a pump that is not converting that energy into water movement, where does the energy go? Heat and vibration, both pump and motor killers.

I say if you are going to engineer something that is to protect what is important to you (ie the car's engine in this case) then do it right.

Running an oversized pump achieves greater required input power and a reduced lifespan. Nothing more. It is however possible to partially bypass the pump to reduce head pressure (This principle is commonly used in refrigeration systems to control refrigeration effect, and sometimes in jetboat jet units to maintain efficiency at differing speeds)

With an undersized pump you can usually stop cavitation installing an I/R valve or flow regulator on the discharge side of the pump to bring it back on it's curve. You could then use whatever radiator is practical and adjust flow to suit based on your pump selection.

The pump needs to be sized for the required rate of flow and the anticipated head or it will cavitate and kill itself, or never achieve/maintain flow as required.

The point of best efficiency (BEP) for a pump is smack bang in the middle of it's efficiency curve. Fans also show similar characteristics, and demonstrate very different performance running in free air or correctly ducted/shrouded.

eke_zetec_rwd sums it up

Rejecting more heat thru the radiator means you increase the ΔT between the hot air from the turbo and the entering water temperature at the intercooler. Heat is not being rejected at the pump, or any of the interconnecting pipework really either, so the time spent by each litre per second of water in the heat exchanger, where again there is a ΔT between the airstream and the heated water from the intercooler is a critical figure unique to the heat exchanger used.

Bear in mind too that the specific heat capacity of water is many many times higher than that of air.

I think you'll find the faster the flowrate the better. No matter what, more mass-flow = more heat transfer rate.

Actually in truth the heat exchanger will have an optimal water flow rate for maximum heat transfer/rejection, but you're partly right in that a greater flow rate of the secondary heat exchange medium (ie air) over the heat exchanger will reject more heat

Patricks Auto Trimmers are also highly recommended by many many people

Maybe increase ACC levvies on purple civics?

Too soon?

QFT