cute wee gem

If anyone is at the Masterton drags look out for the ratty grey un-finished looking rail

Spent the last couple of nights working on the car rushing to get everything working. Tech inspection hopefully tomorrow and some testing out on the "private drag strip" if tech goes well.

Last meet of the year, forecast for showers.

Owner isn't even allowed to drive it as he has no license but we do have a backup

Should be crewing for a rail this year if all goes to plan. Engine is still being built and a few other bits still need doing but may get it out for the April meet in Masterton.

 

Engine will be a 3" stroke alky injected SB2.2

 

Here's a sweet vid of a similar engine combo pulling some epic rpm

Got the engine fired up yesterday. We have 4 days to get it ready to race. Fair bit of work to do and a few issues to sort but should hopefully get there!

Meth > onions

edit: a year late!

It's a pretty common way to measure mains for alignment. Usually using solid bar, not your old bent ruler..

What's you expert opinion on what he should do?

Run a straight edge through the caps?

Lookin goood. Makes me keen for smaller wheels

Giz front lip

Best hilux evar. It's just so wrong yet so good at the same time

Pretty sure they are, yes.

Does it make a difference whether you're still in gear or neutral?

Does it always start swaying one way first?

Very much

Tom likes this

but will bowl with the 7m till she dies, she should prove reasonably reliable chaps.

famous last words

Update!

JZA70 R154 from Yahoo Auctions Japan. Massive thanks to Alex and his crew at mlracing.co.nz for getting this to me. (for the same price as I sold my smelly old w55 for)

Mrs kicked me out of the lounge, so I took over the dining room instead.

New seals, reverse switch, Marlin Crawler bearing retainer, thrust washer (already installed in this pic), shift fork, shifter seat etc - Thanks to kpr for clearing up my confusion.

Swapped the LSD back into the supra housing and also put in a Weir performance kit to hopefully help the shitty Toyota LSD lock a bit better

The Weir kit comes with shims and replaces the coil spring that pushes against the clutch packs with a solid spacer and 2 spring washers, which has doubled the breakaway torque

The reason I went back to the Supra center is because it has an extra mount at the front. These cars tend to rip the factory centers out of the subframe with a little abuse even behind stock 7Ms lol

Subframe out

The subframe needed modifying to fit the Supra center, here's a pic of the front mount I made. it's basically 4mm plate welded to the subframe with some tube and nuts welded to the top

Reinforced the rear section where the diff mounts with 4mm plate

Solid diff and subframe bushes

Painted bits and installed diff bushes

So while the subframe was out I also ripped the fuel tank out and started preparing for the new fuel setup.

Walbro 400lph e85 pump next to the factory pump. It was a little longer but wasn't too hard to install.

The ID of the pump outlet was slightly smaller than the original Toyota fuel line (but bigger than the Toyota fitting ID), so the fuel now comes out of the pump, through the original hardline, then cut before the original (small) fitting and now has a -8 compression fitting with -8 line all the way up to the fuel rail.

I'm hoping this won't effect flow too much using the hardline? Forgot to take pics

I also tested the compression fitting up to the pumps relief pressure (70psi?) and it seems to be fine, although a lot of people warn not to use them for injection. It is hidden up above the tank where it can't get knocked and is away from heat so should be safe?

-8 ptfe line, was much cheaper than buying a decent 37 degree flaring tool for hardline. Will this be ok for cert? It is mostly protected by the subframe and then plastic covers most of the way up front

ID1000s

More dining room madness!

Wired in an Emanage Ultimate (lol), which was cheap, but some times I regret buying and wish I had gone with a standalone. We'll see how it goes first as I can't afford to change at the moment. Turns out I can ditch the distributor cap and run individual coils with it so may also try that later on if funds allow

I also tidied up a lot of the loom and moved some plugs to suit the new inlet manifold, and changed to bosch injector plugs

Engine bay looks a little like this at the moment, I had to pull the wiring loom apart again as the plastic bit around the injector plugs didn't fit with the new manifold and looked super ugly, so now it goes underneath and looks a lot tidier

I've also mounted a couple of oil catch cans and made lines for them aswell as a -12 oil drain

etc

Cheers man, I guess I should update this.. not that anything that interesting has happened lately

^^ just make sure the kitchen window is closed as it may give inaccurate readings

The unrestored state is some what epic though

^^ this

Cheap as chips to make as well. I was surprised at how well mine worked for like 15 bucks

+1 for 15-16 at cruise

Throw points in bin

Win

I've seen a bent clutch plate cause exactly this issue. a mate of mine bent his trying to put a replacement box back in.

Did you take it off your old engine and put on the new one? check gaskets etc are ok - how long between the swap as fuel may have gone hard in the carb?

I'd start with the idle mix screws

kpr must be a drongo

worn out 2nd hand boxes + sticky tires + launches/clutch kicks will break just about anything in time

^^ Depends how you drive it. You can easily smash an R154 if you're hard on it too.

I don't think sheepers does fully sick D1s and 5th gear burnouts in his Celica

Who on earth would swap a 2t out for a 4t?

Build Thread

I was expecting to see a 1jz in it by the end of that post

But I agree to keeping it semi original, with family history etc, looks like a good base!