dwlee

I have a 75 GTO.

Why do you think the turbo head can rev higher? Could be the; cam, exhaust, inlet manifold, carb, running out of fuel, spark or general wear

For a sohc v8 turbo head the difference is minimal if at all.

Matt, yes four in total.

So it looks like it requires the 45mm bush. Thanks for the info.

Disk Brakes Australia http://www.dba.com.au/

The 16L isn't mine. The dohc doesn't have a dizzy. The rotors on the GTO attach on the inside face of the hub and the bolt PCD is 86mm. However, have a look at this thread on classiccolt http://classiccolt.forumcircle.com/view ... sc&start=0 for other solutions (you may have to login to view). In general you'll want to use rotors that have; four bolt holes (easier redrilling), a centre hole (67mm) and overall depth (30mm) close to the factory. Have a look at a dba catalogue to find suitable donors (GTO rotors are dba 210).

The engine is the same as what you have in the end ie. a sohc 4g63 and they can be run using either mechanical or electric fuel pump. Those torque rods look like they will do the job with a little work. Thanks for that dimension, but really need the inside diameter of the spring eye.

Below is a photo of the 16L with sidedrafts on a sohc 4g63.

Z33 is a 350z from my understanding. My front brakes are a little smaller using disks and calipers from an e30 BMW. As you can see the caliper brackets are not a simple solution. The disks have diameter of 260mm and should fit under most 14" wheels.

Here are some photos of a twin cam being dummy fit in a GTO's engine bay.

No, you wont have those mounts sadly. They work by restricting the movement of the diff. It's probably easier to use a single larger sway bar rather than having to fabricate additional mounts, but I imagine it is doable.

Your car shouldn't be handling too poorly if it has newish shocks etc so is there a particular aspect you don't like i.e. the twisty stuff or straight ahead stability? When was the last time the car had a wheel alignment? Remember it is almost a 40 year old car with a particularly heavy engine for the body weight so turn-in can be a little delayed and sloppy steering can make response vague.

Not quite tramp rods but similar, click of the images below to have a look. These are from an MR that was for sale in Japan a few years ago.

I wouldn't use your other set of GTO springs, but you could if you wanted. To get the springs reset is a specialist job and I'm not sure who does it in Taranaki?

When I had an extra leaf added it was put in the middle of the stack of 4 so that should give you an idea of the length, as I no longer have that car so can't show a photo. New bushes don't really stiffen, but rather tighten up the rear. To really improve the handling replace the shocks and put in a larger front sway bar, but the biggest killer is the make sure the steering is tight (a gto problem area).

Just out of interest what is the diameter of the front eye of your spare springs as I'm about to see if I can find some as there are 2 size listings for the early Galants?

Have the springs reset as they have probably sagged and at the same time add another short leaf and replace the bushes. If you are really keen you can add torque rods as fitted to the MR.

My understanding is Matt is originally from Oz.

Finding parts is more from word of mouth rather than on sites. What parts are you looking for? Have you contacted Ken and Renee via the club http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/mitsubishicarclub/ ?

You are welcome, however, the GTO in the photo is not mine.

For flares and front spoiler shown in the link below you can try Fibreglass Auto Replacements who are in Gisborne.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/japcrapcarclub/4296892992/

However, I have found their layup quality is not always the best in the past and in the last set of flares I got from them the rear left-hand side was noticeable different than the original plastic item, but the others where a close match. In the photos below the blue is the same as the original while the white is as supplied by FAR.

For parts you could try Speedyrr who is on http://classiccolt.forumcircle.com/portal.php and is also in Taranaki (He can be difficult to get hold of at times).

The original molded door rubbers are very difficult to come by, but you may be able to get some from Aust. as the GC and GD galant coupe used the same door. Some of the parts are still available from Mitsubishi.

Good luck with the project.

I good product I have used is Epiphos, which is made by Tergo Industries in Auckland. Another good product is Kephos, but can be difficult to obtain.

A works like copy with integrated linkage is available on e-bay for around $250US plus shipping. Search using "Mitsubish 4G52 Sidedraft Manifold".

Give Pipeline Industries a call 09-828 4710, they are at 50 Patiki Rd Avondale or the other option is to give Race Brakes a call as I'm sure they have run into this problem before.

You can get away without resizing the rods if the rod cap is located by means other than the rod bolts such as dowels etc. In the case of 4g63 rods the caps are located by the rod bolts.

If you change the rod bolts the rod should be re-sized.

The original pre-balanceshaft 4g52 i.e. dizzy driven off the crank, are quite a bit better than the later balanceshaft motors. However, they do take a bit of work to get the best out of them. To add to the list that Fuel has already given you is to install electronic ignition (either aftermarket or from a late 74 early 75 GTO) and possibly swapping in a 4g53 crank from a canter truck to get a longer stroke. One thing to note is that you can't use a later 4g54 crank due to different diameter main bearings (pre1978 4g5X 66mm versus later 4g5X 60mm).

Sorry, don't know, but if you gave them a call I'm sure they would tell you. I wasn't aware that the 4g93 lifters had the same problem as the early 4g63 lifters?

Try STA Parts http://www.segedin.co.nz/ as the prices listed (if accurate) are significantly cheaper than off trademe. The ones for the 4g93T are listed at $6inc gst each giving the total of $96 for 16 versus the trademe price of $265.

I would say clear of most Full Range Class-D amps however, Pioneer PRS-D4000F is supposed to be reasonable good amp.

Have a look here http://www.walkercorp.ath.cx/16v54/ for images and another sub-directory with various dohc heads that someone looked at as possibilties to fit the 4g54.

In the above video did anyone else notice that the dash was running Windows?

So the question you have to answer is why does the buzzing go away when the engine is off if only the left channels are affected and swapping the rca cables makes no difference?

Try swapping the speaker wires left to right over at the amp. If the buzzing swaps sides you will know that is the amp and if it doesn't you'll know that it is the speaker wires or the speakers. Also, measure the resistance to ground of the speaker wires with them disconnected from the amp.

Another thing you might want to try is to wire the speakers directly from the head unit just to make sure it is the amp.

If your amp only cost $80 and you can't fix it yourself buy a new amp.

Does the stereo buzz at all when the engine is off? If it does then a bypass capacitor will not likely help.

However if the buzz goes away with the engine off then what I would recommend is

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... BCATID=669

as it is easy to install.