dwlee

Thanks for the offer, but I managed to get hold of one today.

The Gold isn't mine. The link was just over twice the price that megasquirt you linked to. Power output would depend on a lot of things but all things being equal and using those high compression pistons the max power should be about the same, but improved mid rev power and torque.

Yes, there is a bit of a difference between the later balance shaft blocks and the early gto blocks.

I'll see if I can find borrow a timing indicator locally and make a copy myself thanks.

The are available on trademe, but read this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25078 first. I have never built one myself and if I was going to go megasquirt I'd be getting one that had been assembled by a reputable manufacture.

ITBs can run batch if all the injectors are after the throttle plates, but it is usual to run them as sequential.

Thanks, its the one next to the gold in the earlier photo and is pretty much original

Sorry phtmbl I don't have any spare sadly, but they aren't to hard to make if you have to.

Why didn't those 4g51 header fit that you have up on trademe. I know there are 3 different GTO 4g52 exhaust patterns; square port, round port with the same bolt pattern as square port and round port with the upper bolts moved further away from the ports. I think the 4g51 should be the same as the later.

Went to check the timing today and found that the timing indicator had broken off where it bolts to the front of the block. Do you have a spare that you would be willing to sell?

Your engine will have 21mm pins. The 22mm pins are for 7-bolt engines such as the evo and rvr. The 3-4% is in torque and it is not necessarily peak torque.

If you are going to run wasted spark and carbs/batch injection then you only need a crank trigger, however if running sequential injection then you need some way to determine where the engine is in it cycle e.g. tdc for cylinder 1. You will also have to decide what sort of computer you are going to run as that may effect what sort of trigger system is needed. For some ideas on trigger systems see this thread http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=978 and you may want to investigate megasquirt.

The trigger system I'm going to run should allow me in theory to run a factory computer, but I'll be using a Link. Originally I was was going to use a custom trigger system on the inlet cam gear using a Haltech S3 hall-effect sensor with four magnets (3 south pole + 1 north pole facing the sensor), see photo below for the mounting system. However, the RVR head came up so I changed to using the factory system.

The import part you can't make yourself easily is the plastic gasket that goes on top of the guard and they are different left to right, but these come up on yahoo japan often.

Go to http://www.staparts.co.nz/index.php and search under the part number PS2074G63M21 020R for the pistons.

I will be running an RVR head with the modified evo 4 inlet manifold with coil on plug direct ignition and sequential injection. For the cas I'm using a combination of the RVR front sensor and a kiggly racing 6-Bolt crank trigger sensor see http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/cranktrigger.htm

Sequential injection is said to give 3-4% improvement in torque and better fuel economy over batch injection. There should be minimal difference between wasted spark and direct ignition all things being equal.

The valve diameters are all the same, but material may vary. See the photos below showing the difference in the port sizes in the inlet manifold flange with the different heads.

VR4 top, 4g61 bottom

Vr4 top, evo 1-3 bottom (modified evo 4 manifold actual, but the ports are the same)

I'm not to sure regarding the pistons, but i would expect you would have to change due to the different valve reliefs positions between the sohc and dohc heads. High compression (10.4:1) cast replacement pistons with rings can be got for around $210 from STA see http://www4.eaccounts.co.nz/eOrder_v1.a ... um=130639#.

You don't necessarily have to replace the cas has you can use a bfh (not recommended) on the firewall or recess the firewall, but you will have to remove/modify the heater to get enough clearance. Replacing the cas depends on how you are going to run the engine i.e. wasted spark with carbs, wasted spark with batch efi or individual coils with sequential efi. For the first two you can make a crank based trigger, but for the 3rd a cam based trigger is required. I'm using the RVR front cas sensor so did have to modify the firewall, but I did modify it slightly anyway just to get a bit more clearance to make working on the engine a little easier.

Any of the dohc heads will be better than the sohc head. The main choices are:

1] a big port vr4/na 2L galant 89-92, which are lacking in mid range torque compared to the smaller port heads.

2] a small port 1.6L mirage (4g61) 88-91?, which have smaller ports and the chambers are slightly smaller giving a slight increase in compression.

3] an evo 1-3, RVR 91-96, which have approximately the same port area as the 4g61, but are a different shape. An evo 4-6 manifold can be adapted to fit as the ports are the same size and the throttle body is pointing towards the front.

The heads in 1] and 2] are use the same diameter head bolts as your block while 3] use smaller head bolts and hence the holes need to be enlarge with particular care with the oil feed. The RVR turbo head 95-96 is the one that come with the front cam angle sensor, however all can be modified to take this sensor see http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2g ... echtip.htm

One request please don't use txtish as it takes some of us old farts a long time to decode

The outside skin shape and lines are good. The problem with the guards is the join between outer skin and the backing skin were the guards bolt to the frame. This joint is of a different thickness than the original metal and hence it takes a bit of work to get them sitting on the car properly.

The windscreen rubber does take the chrome trim. I don't know there was a 16L front spoiler. FAR make a spoiler for the GTO, but I don't like it that much, see below.

Why not use your current block since it a 4g63 and fit a dohc head, for info see http://www.projectzerog.com/sohc-dohc.shtml and http://forums.austarion.com/viewforum.php?f=13 but note that the Starions are wideblock while your current motor is narrowblock if it's using the original gearbox. The original gearbox should be strong enough if it's in good condition, the engine remains non-turbo and you don't drive like an idiot.

The issues you will run into with a dohc swap are; bonnet clearance with the top of the timing belt cover, firewall clearance with cam angle sensor and the water outlet, need for custom headers, electronic spark control if using carbs.

Bonnet clearance issue and solution.

How the dohc 4g63 engine looks in a GTO's engine bay

Using a RVR turbo head solves the cas issue and note the block-off plate for the rear water exit. Using the 7-bolt RVR head required the head bolt holes to be enlarged to fit on the 6-bolt block.

That's about all I have online at the moment apart from the photo below which shows the gives a hint of the front spoiler I made.

I'll have more photos and info when I get round to putting up the project build page.

Can't help with the price of the fibre-glass guards, but be prepared for a bit of work to make them fit on the car correctly.

Front window gc/gd rubbers need to have the sides trimmed and rejoined to make fit, but the top and bottom are a good fit. Don't know about any of the other rubbers.

I can't help with someone to recondition the steering box, but have you tried adjusting the box and checked the oil level? The oil wont fix the play but will stop them wearing out as fast. If the adjustment is maxed out a recon/re-shimming is in order.

The project car is slowly making progress, hopefully it will be off to the painters soon. What I have got left to do before that happens is finish replacing the fuel lines and tidy up the air dam. There isn't a build page, but I'll put one up at some stage.

For early Mitsubishi stuff try the sites below, which have quite a few people from NZ on them.

http://classiccolt.forumcircle.com/portal.php

http://www.sigma-galant.com/

http://www.austarion.com/

The parts book only covers the 73-74 models and those guards are shown on the blue and red cars. The guards with the front air dam are from the 75-77 models and are on the white cars. All GTO guards will fit on any GTO without issues. The guards with the over fenders are different as the metal lip/flare is cut away and they have welded nuts for the flares. The photo below is from a 74 GSR and shows what the cut away.

I had a look at the two cars the guy on trademe is parting out before he brought them. The guards are very rusty but look reasonable straight see below.

There are four different front guards, but only one that is common and that is the type on the GS 2000. The other 3 guards are from different GSR models. The other panel that is different is the valance. The differences can be seen in the photos below.

Good metal guards are very hard to find. There is one good one up on yahoo japan at the moment, but the price is extreme http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/72636443.

The other option is get a fiberglass replacement from F.A.R. (Fiberglass Auto Replacements) in Gisborne, but these can be very tricky to fit and take a lot of effort to them them to work.

Great looking wheels. For the drums paint them matt black otherwise they could stand out like this

Damo, The slat front grills (73-74) can be either all silver or silver and black and has nothing to do with body colour. The later honey comb grills are two tone (silver and black or body colour and black. So do whatever you think will look the best. What part of the country are you in?

For re-coating the side vents and tail light surrounds you could try the following companies.

Vacuum Metalisers in Waihi http://www.vacuummetalisers.co.nz/index.html

Total Plastics in Auckland http://www.totalplastics.co.nz/services.asp

Damo, do you mine the front grill or the side air vent grills?

The front screen rubber I got was for a GC galant that I had to shorten the sides, but a part from that it fitted perfectly top and bottom. I got it from ebay seller phil's rotary's http://stores.ebay.com.au/MAZDA-PHILS-R ... CTS-RUBBER

I don't know if the rear window rubber for a GC/GD will fit or can be made to fit a GTO, but looking at photos they look a lot bigger than a GTO. Probably the best place to get dimensions is on Sigma-Galant forum. They could also measure the length of the window divider seal as there is replacement available for the GC couple at rarespares http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares ... ct=RGDSL5A note different left and right.

A good site to find front windscreen dimension is http://www.windscreens.co.nz/ but sadly they don't have info on the rear.

I hope that helps. Dave

PS the only place I've been able to get a boot rubber from with the correct dimensions is at Scotts old auto rubber http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au

I used to run a facet on a GTO no problems. The pump pressure should be in the range 4.5 to 6 psi and flow around 120 Lph. Make sure you use soft rubber mounts otherwise they can be very loud.

I have spare GS badge, what part of the country do you live in?

Are the vacuum secondaries opening? Have you checked that the electric fuel pump is supplying enough fuel? Is the pickup in the tank clean of rubbish? Is the distributor cap and rotor in good condition?

No build page as yet for the dohc conversion. My other GTO is pretty much original and in very good condition with only modification being headers.