dwlee

If you are after STM32 in DIP package have a look at MINI-M4 for STM32 from mikroElektronika see http://www.mikroe.com/mini/stm32/. It's basically a module that fits into standard DIP40 socket and is pin compatible with PIC16F887 and PIC18(L)F45K20 microcontrontrollers. 

I wish I understood the question as I might be able to answer it. Which particular part are you asking about and for which colt; 16L, 1850, GTO or mirage?

Given that your car is a 74 someone has put a 75+ steering wheel in it, so you got the correct one of your car. Your GTO is looking good by the way.

The originals will be the standard fixed (non-retracting) 3 point type. There should be a mount point near the floor directly under the roof mount and the other mount will be on the tunnel about a foot behind the hand brake lever. 

The rear vision has always been an issue with these and I haven't seen one yet where the demister hasn't been damaged from cleaning. I'm going to have a go at repairing one of mine while the rear window is out.

Great looking GTO. If your motor is an original non-balanceshaft 4g52 be super watchful on overheating as those heads will wrap on a drop of a hat. Also, if your engine is a 4g52 you shouldn't need a electric fan as the mechanical fan should be more than up to the job. However, if you have a 4g63 then the mechanical fan will likely be too far away from the radiator to draw enough air through the radiator. For an alternator/regulator try http://www.aespares.co.nz who are in Henderson.

Which window seals are you after, the one that attach to your door card and are in the inside of the glass or the ones the clip onto the chrome trim on the outside of the glass? The ones on the outside you can still get from Mitsubishi or you should be able to get something from either RA Johnstone http://www.raj.co.nz/ or Basis http://www.basisnz.co.nz

I suggest you have a look at the Fuel system chapter of the Hobby Car Technical Manual, which can be downloaded for free from the hotrod website as the sample chapter. See http://hotrod.org.nz...ical_Manual.htm

I have the same head if you look closely at the photo I posted, but with a 6-bolt block. The flange on the jayracing adapter that mates to the thermostat housing interfered with the pulley and hence why I had to modify mine. If you make your own adapter that is longer it should be fine as long as the wall thickness isn't too excessive.

Just measured a fwd water pump off a 6bolt and its shaft is in the same position as the rwd pump.

Yes, you have to move the flange to align the pulleys when using the rwd water pump with the DOHC pulleys. I'm not sure about the older V belt pulleys.

Fuel is right in that the rwd water pump flange has to be carefully pressed off, flipped and pressed back on to the correct level so the pulleys line up correctly. The pump body also needs a bit of machining to make room for the timing belt and tensioning parts.

I'm sure you could modify to use V belt, but I think you'd have to end up using a smaller diameter pully as well. I've also seen photos of them unmodified, but the block may have been from a 64 or it could have been that in some heads the hole is higher in the head. However, all the heads I've measured (95 RVR 7-bolt, 6-bolt big port and 4g61 small port) have the hole at the same height. It could also be that the centre of rotation of the water pump varies significantly model to model? The water pumps I've tried are from rwd 4g63 Sigmas and Starions. I suppose the easiest way to tell if you have an issue is to bolt the water pump on with pully attached and see if you have an unrestricted view of the hole.

Below is a photo showing the modification that I had to do to the jayracing front water exit to get it to clear the rwd water pump pulley.

The jayracing part interfered with the rwd water pump pulley hence I had to modify it to fit.

phtmbl: Thanks for the offer, but it shouldn't cost much. I'll let you know when they let me know.

Phtmbl: OK I'll send my old rear windscreen rubber off to him.

Some feedback on the dimensions from that link I posted. The front is pretty much spot-on once it's stretched slightly onto the glass. The dimension I was given for inside to inside were; bottom 1290mm, sides 500mm and top 1050mm. The bottom of the rear is pretty good at 1050mm inside to inside, but the combined sides and top was larger than required at 2330mm, hence modification would be required.

I also found Basis NZ to be very helpful, but when I was looking for a boot rubber a couple of years ago, they didn't have anything that allowed the boot to close correctly. The boot rubber I got from Scott's old rubber was part/section number 322.030.

phtmbl: do you know a manufacture who could make from and rears?

I'm also having ago at making my own front indicator lens using a two part silicon mold taken from an original and using high impact/UV/oxidation resistant polyurethane casting resin. I'm happy with the results so far. I'll post some photos in a day or so in a new thread in tech talk.

I just got the dimension off the guy from the auction I linked to and will check tonight. He was quite up front that they had complaints regarding the rear, but did say if I could send him an original they could correct the design (lead time was 8 weeks). This guy doesn't appear to be associated with Phil's rotarys.

The rubber that runs across the top of the side windows is available from Mitsubishi with the part numbers MA155090 and MA155091 for left and right respectively. The door and rear quarter weather strips: Front LH MB069723 or MA164407, Front RH MB069724 or MA164408, Rear LH MB069725 or MA164486 and Rear RH MB069726 or MA164487. The lower door seals (LH MA155100, RH MA155101), rear window rubber (MA156365) and front window rubber (MA156350) are no longer available .

I have used a reproduction GC Galant coupe front window rubber from Oz that I had to cut and rejoin as the sides where too long, but the top and bottom where the correct lengths. There is a guy on ebay.com.au that has front and rear GTO rubbers, I have asked for dimensions but have not got a reply http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-G ... 0955987250?

The lower door rubbers from rarespares are just generic seals and are not the same as the original molded rubbers, but they are probably your best bet see http://www.sigma-galant.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=9054.

I got a boot rubber from Scott's old rubber, but i think it is the same section as the one from rarespares.

I'm also Keen so put me down for one as well.

Dave

Which parts are you after, the metal brackets that attached to the block, the rubber mount that attaches to the cross member and metals bracket or the metal bracket that constrains the movement of rubber mount? For the metal brackets that attach to the block any rwd 4g6x will do the job. The rubber mounts and constraining brackets are chosen to fit your cross member, so your current ones maybe fine.

Yes, L200 that had a 4g63 are the same.

The stuff you are describing sounds like vacuum bag tape, which is used to seal the bag against the mould when making composite parts. In the photo below its the black stuff around the edge of the mould. It's great for anything that need to seal but able to be removed easily. It's much stronger/sticker than bluetack.

The 1.6 heads are not especially rare. The front cas trigger wheel and cam gear of the RVR turbo will bolt onto any 4g63 camshaft, the difficult part as I said earlier is the mount for the sensor on the head. At the moment mine is on a Kelford 264 camshaft. The factory cams to use are from an AMG 4g63 (very rare) and the next best choices would be from a non-turbo 93 or newer RVR or from a VX-S galant.

That's right I'm not using the 4g61 head, I'm using the RVR head instead due to the front cas and the evo 4 inlet manifold port matches without having to use an adapter to take into account the shape differences (port centers are the same).