Requiemk

get a custom front facing one made, shouldn't cost more than 400

Would the price be worth sending up a flywheel/head to get machined?

Awesome thread, is great your helping people out.

I have chopped a large section out of my firewall to accommodate an engine swap, is there an guide lines with re welding in some new steel in there?

The chassis tag happened be in the way, would you be happy for me to weld it back into the firewall at a different point as old position is no longer available.

I still need to build my exhaust, is any catalytic converter suitable?

You ass.

He pretty much was told by the certifier not to modify the cover since the seatbelt mounts there.

I would just have someone handy with a tig and a grinder sort the manifold. If you look inside a factory toyota manifold there's all sorts of bumps and shit from needing material for all the bolts to go into.

One extra isn't going to hurt reliability, you may hurt forced's feelings though

calm down, fuck its just the internet

Awesome thread, is great your helping people out.

I have chopped a large section out of my firewall to accommodate an engine swap, is there an guide lines with re welding in some new steel in there?

The chassis tag happened be in the way, would you be happy for me to weld it back into the firewall at a different point as old position is no longer available.

I still need to build my exhaust, is any catalytic converter suitable?

I drove around said levin pajero for a bit, is my mates. very thirsty and didn't have the power youd expect. not recommended

Does cast bend nicely if you heat it up? heat + press/ soft faced hammer

^ Good question.

Would also like to know if a suspension only cert is cheaper than doing suspension and engine.

It is ^^

by a whole lot, quoted roughly $300 compared to $550 for cert with engine

My intake plenum now sits where my clutch slave sits, It may be easier just to chop my plenum and get it re welded but that's not fun

Brakes are standard, some form of race pad will used in the future. But standard has 330mm rotors up front so more than enough.

The firewall had to get massaged back a few inchs and now i have no cltuch slave room.

What options do i have for remote brake/clutch settup?

How much of a headache is it to design my own pedal box with remote reservoirs, mainly thinking design wise, haven't looked around to much.

And real world experiences with driving with no brake booster? /road car

Its likely as the top says feb 09, anuy certifier who will allow different tyres than above specs is a good cunt or hasn't seen it yet.

I think if you shop around youd come across a friendly certifier

Not everyone knows the answer to everything, that's why hes asking.

Id make a new one, buy the correct size pipe, purchase lenght from garage bend it up nicely and then flare the ends = win. Garages should flare them for you for a small fee

Awesome news, will look into this tomorrow for my gas guzzler

fuel filter? ran with no air cleaner? exhaust collapsed?

check your timing

clean afm filament with some form of brake clean

reset ecu

plug gap/new plugs

Original colour?

looking good, choice when car comes back less rust, motivation +1

I took the 330 for a sweet trip to the beach today at lunch, highlight of my day.

All information is good. i will adjust my testing in future, but in this case i have achieved a good double compression easily on same model engine.

Any thoughts opinions are awesome might seem like im stuck on the same ideas but im just going off past experiences

yeah and I've had a low reading on just one or two cylinders for not winding it over long enough, when I had thought I had wound it over enough times to get the highest reading.

results did even out i give it about 4-5 seconds generally.

Now im doubting myself whether i did see it timed up, but it was. I don't pull apart engines without checking timing.

This is so gay i have gut feeling its not the rings, will put head back on and preform leak down test tomorrow, i should have done prior to but i eliminated other options in my head

- All the valves/springs cant be half fucked to give even low compression

- headgasket can't/shouldn't leak evenly across each cylinder

- rings/piston/bore

the wot thing is on my mind to as well......

damaged/burnt rings

I fear you have been ripped off by some asshole..

likely, bores mint as fuck which is wierd

i can only guess to whether it was running fine based on sellers information

Nothing inside engine has been touched since purchase just turbo manifolds injectors etc

engine appeared correctly timed. both cam gears matched to factory marks aswell as engine in tdc when i pulled off head, i didn't remove crank pulley. I noticed both cam lobes were facing correct place at tdc

block is identical to other which is 5metres away bores are same size.

There are 2 types of pistons for these engines and both are non turbo high comp types which wield a healthy 170 to 180 mark when tested, have done so with old engine, which is the same as this one which is giving me problems

Tests were done with throttle not wide open which skipped my mind in the rush of things

Although in the past i tested first rb at both and results were close/same/cant remember but nothing to raise an eyebrow at.

Engine turns over speed is fine

engine will run but bogs down when given to much throttle and wont stay running for to long.

intake fine, removed manifold and no obstructions in head.

the engine has sat for a good 6 months but turned over every month or so?

to note 3 other rb engines in my shed have practically no piston movement at all compared to engine in question

Guy had engine running in his s13 in new plymouth, was tuned/some work done at dobsons.We cant manage to pin point who it was due to my lack of knowledge but at the end of the day it doesn't fix my compression issue....

Head was definitely torqued down, some blow by was apparent through breathers with cranking so going to take engine apart tomorrow night (head off) and check it over.

Its fellow rb compression problem member

Bores between both engines are around 85.5 85.6 mark on both engines so that sounds fine.

I might look into head gasket reusing but due to possibility of it leaking oil/water ill play it safe a get a new one

i lost the guys number a while back with my old phone, not local. Already tried to track down but deadened, cant even remember his name to be honest, have had engine for a good year or so.

Cams appear standard, no cam gears. There was no mention of difference camshafts from seller.

Cams are key wayed onto cambelt pulley and all markings line up so im "assuming" its ok? I haven't played around with cams to much tbh

How can you go past the obvious to me of rings/pistons?

there is some obvious side to side play with audbile noise being made with wriggle side to side comparing this to other engine with same pistons (standard) and same bore size (measured).