corrupt

if i did id have just bought a 18k factory manual version from the start wouldnt i.

mmm, i keep seeing that "one" on trademe during my browsing, ive looked at the auction a countless number of times

yeh as fuel said, im pretty sure that you'll find that one of the shift linkages will have come lose from its mounting point on top of the gearbox. Its happened numerous times in my galant and its always been the same story, of one of the clips coming loose or completely falling off.

the motorway is not a play pen, especially when there is an undercover cop 3 cars behind.

also, you body kit is coming off just behind the left rear wheel. flapping around like a dunny door in the wind.

i dont usually play, im just excited driving it now that its manual, and i was excited to see you. 1jz battle etc

haha yeh, i'm aware of that flappyness, i kind of secretly want it to come off so i have an excuse to replace it with something less obtrusive

Shit, this car looks so mint driving along. Was quite upset you wouldn't give it a bit of a fang for me on the motorway today in the chaser

Worthwhile transformation then?

Mind you... if the Cortina was your benchmark ....

This has crossed my mind, i doubt the cortina will ever hit the spot when I finally get round to finishing it

Manual conversion all done now, its fucking insane

It was all 3500 shipped from christchurch, its definately a pull type clutch, i just checked and it has a big bearing thing on the other side of the pressure plate which the fork hooks on to.

Picked up my ARP flywheel bolts today, they were listed as 4AGE ones, apparently they are the go.

that dosnt look like a pull type clutch?

Ill be pissed off if it isn't, first the brake pedal box didnt fit, then the flywheel bolts were too short and was missing the spigot bearing, so much for a "full conversion kit" if this clutch is wrong

I now have an extra pedal:

And one of these:

A couple of these:

And also all these:

Just waiting for my new flywheel bolts which have been ordered to arrive, then I can complete the conversion. Should be mean

Few more pics

Have ripped off the rear wing, immediately improved looks 10x. Planning to paint the rims black or gunmetal shortly.

Recently had some idle issues, either wouldnt idle, or idle at 2000rpm. It was the notorious ICV, I managed to solve the issues by taking it off and giving it a nice soak in wd40

Manual conversion is on the cards as well, as soon as I manage to get all the required bits. Anyone have a remote shift r154 kicking around ?

My mate runs the same scarles intercooler on his jzx100, he managed to tuck his behind the factory bumper nicely. Definately a difference in lag when compared to mine, which has quite a large one.

On a side note, need a manual conversion for mine asap, so if you know of any parts going let me know

For sale, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Mitsubishi/Galant/auction-258917991.htm

ive only seen 3 jzx100's out west auckland and two of them are in the driveway

Saw 1 down my road today in swanson. Have a look in the top left hand corner of this photo, that silver thing is a jzx100.

haha was probably me, I went out those ways to pick up something from tram valley rd yesterday

Mean, so need to see more of these around

Haha yeah I reckon such a sweet car to drive, ive only seen 3 jzx100's out west auckland and two of them are in the driveway. Will probably start seeing heaps more now that I drive one.

Definitely ditch that wing at the very least. The rest of the kit looks a bit much too but is not entirely horrible. The wing though, dear gods.

Good fucking choice though man just get it manual and you'll be smiles for days.

yeh definately taking the spoiler off when ive got some time.

Manual conversion is definately on the cards, my flatmates got a manual one and driving that is like driving a completely different car.

So I now own a chaser, was such an impulse buy but its freckin' mean as.

So pretty much as it stands:

Factory Tourer V '98

1JZ-GTE automatic

Tein adjustables

Torsen LSD

19x8.5 front, 19x9.5 rear

Full straight through stainless exhaust

Greddy frontmount intercooler

Juran front strut brace

Gay purple bov

Sard air filter

Blitz boost guage

body kit (probably change the rear bar at some stage)

rear wing (probably remove this shortly though)

Tints

Ive read this somewhere on here, had a quick squiz but couldnt find it. What is the rules with mounting fuel lines? How often does it need to be attached with a p clamp?

I know of a dude using some sort of subaru pistons in his turbo pinto, he was also saying hes getting custom rods made up to suit though, ill ask him next time i see him.

Took for a wof today, after not having one for over a year.

Failed on some bullshit, brake lights apparently werent working which they were. Also lug nuts arent screwed onto enough thread apparently, so i just chucked the trident noodles on.

Recheck tomorrow, then i can start piecing together all my bits.

This is my daily, got it given to me in a complete shit heap of a state, blown engine etc and i gave it the once over.

People always call it a vr4, but its actually a vx-s ( fwd/high comp engine/vr4 trim ) although just has a normal 4g63 in it now.

Manual, 17 inch dtm's, extractors etc, cut springs/shortend shocks lowerage and a cert to wrap it up.

As it was

As it stands now

I have increased the size of the lines before the efi pump to 3/8 so that should help solve any problems.

Next question, heaps of people are going on to be about how i must use a double flare on the ends of the bundy tube. Now i can understand why you might need them if you are using flare nuts in your fuel setup, but i had thought that i would just go with the rubber lines slipped over the bundy with a hose clamp or two with a wee flare on the end to help it stay on. Is this going to be safe? or is it dodgey for efi pressure lines?

I asked my flatmate, he said his electronic idle sensor was broken, so he blocked it off at the plenum and then adjusted the idle via the throttle butterfly.

My flatmate just done the same/similar conversion to his chaser 1jzge -> 1jzgte and had the same 4000rpm idle issue, but did solve it in the end. Ill find out what he done.

Lift pump is a holley blue and the other is from a VL

on the net i have found

Holley specs:

Flows 110 GPH (free flow)

Flows 88 GPH at 9 PSI

VL specs

Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 32 GPH High Pressure

Operating Pressure: 43.5 PSI

So kind of looks like it will be fine, although i wonder how much pressure 5/16 fuel line will add to the holley and whether it will drop below the 32gph of the vl pump.

So found out the cortina actually had 5/16 in and out of the fuel sender, so my next question is...

Am I going to run into any problems running my whole fuel setup with 5/16 fuel line? eg, 5/16 between fuel tank and lift pump, between lift pump and surge tank, between surge and efi pump and then to the fuel rail, 5/16 return also.

Is is better to have lets say, 3/8 on the low pressure system so its feeding a higher volume? or doesnt it matter too much as most of the high pressure fuel gets returned to the surge tank anyway?

Who has any knowledge with this?

There not in the handle, I have a alarm installed and nearly finished putting in the central locking. Your doing very well not being locked out, im not that brave, i want a back up.

The backup is using a blue packing strap through the door rubber, or strip of metal down the front of the window

But seriously, when you have central locking via alarm remote for a while you wont ever use the door locks again, happend to me a few times now after forking out for solex locks in the beginning, what a waste.

You can definately use those universal solex locks if the lock isnt part of the handle.