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thminiman

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Posts posted by thminiman

  1. yea there are three different types from memory, tapered, ball and cylindrical roller. They all are the same size but the diffence is in the setting up of them, but i presume you already know this from what you said before, the tapered ones i got had an offset hub on them so once they where in, you didnt need to set them like a normal tapered roller baring, just did it up tight and the centres butted up together. Sadly the somewhat innaccurate machining of the hubs meant they didnt load up properly so i needed to surface grind it back by a few thou. cunty if you dont have access to a surface grinder.

    anyway, i shall go an look right now for a receipt

  2. its not the valves that fuck out its the seats, you need new inserts put into the head and depending on what you wanted or specified when you got the head done, they may not have been inserted.

    I reccomend you run at least shell 95 weather you have the new seats or not, ESPECIALLY if you are putting that additive shit in as it effectively reduces the octane rating.

  3. Personal opinion here - but urethane bushes (nolathane is the brand name) are a bad choice, true they may stiffen up your suspension (in my opinion only slightly stiffer) but the tradeoff of a harsh ride, faster wear and worst of all the chronic squeaking once the bushes dry up is not worth it. I have regualrly had urethane bushes start to squeak less than 10,000km after fitting - even with extremely liberal application of the supplied grease.

    Go rubber bushes all the way unless you are making a track car and plan on replacing the urethane bushes semi regularly.

    2c worth

    the solution to this is a free-er flowing exhaust (side out, no restriction), and/or turn the radio up.

  4. also on powdercoating:

    Spraywell Industries Ltd

    343 East Tamaki Road

    East Tamaki

    (ask for graham, dont deal with the indian dudes and say you're keen on a cashie)

    Tomo powder coaters

    09-274 0875

    7 Polaris Pl East Tamaki Auckland

    Ask for Paul

    I have used these two, and East tamki Powdercoaters all over the past few months for work, pricing is always very good but it pays to go to all 3, the benifit of East tamaki Powdercoating is that they do acid dipping cleaning so its fuck all work for you. As far as quality goes, i rated them all pretty similarly

  5. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual evacuation of gases from inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase

    As an engine runs, high-pressure gases are contained within the combustion chamber and prevented from passing into the crankcase (containing the crankshaft and other parts) between the side of the piston and the cylinder bore by piston rings which seal against the cylinder. However, some amount of gas always leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase. This amount is very small in a new or properly rebuilt engine, provided that the piston rings and cylinder walls are correctly "broken in", and increases as the engine wears. Scratches on the cylinder walls or piston rings, such as those caused by foreign objects entering the engine, can cause large amounts of leakage. This leaked gas is known as blow-by because the pressure within the cylinders blows it by the piston rings. If this blow-by gas could not escape then pressure would build up within the crankcase.

    Before the invention of Crankcase Ventilation in 1928 the engine oil seals were designed to withstand this pressure, oil leaking to the ground was accepted and the dipstick was screwed in. The hydrocarbon rich gas would then diffuse through the oil in the seals into the atmosphere. Subsequently, it became an emissions requirement as well as a functional necessity that the crankcase have a ventilation system. This must maintain the crankcase at slightly less than atmospheric pressure and recycle the blow-by gas back into the engine intake. However, due to the constant circulation of the oil within the engine, along with the high speed movement of the crankshaft, an oil mist is also passed through the PCV system and into the intake. The oil is then either burnt during combustion or settles along the intake tract, causing a gradual build-up of residue inside the inlet path. For this reason many engine tuners choose to replace the PCV system with an oil catch can and breather filter which vents the blow-by gases directly to atmosphere and retains the oil in a small tank (or returns it to the sump), although this technically fails to meet most engine emission legislation

  6. im gonna bump this thread up cos i need to do it and after reading it like 3 times, im still confused...

    Mini engines have heaps of crank case pressure and alot at the top of the head. from factory, let alone when they run at high compression. it has one breather line from the crank case (Filled with stainless baffle) which went god knows where from factory, (can only imagine it went to either the main air filter or to carb inlet manifold) but all ones i see now just have one of those little air filters on them. They also generally have a oulet from top of rocker cover that originally went back to the main air filter (unpressurised)

    Now am running sidedraught carb with no vacuum advance or anything, and need to run a catch tank for track use etc, what i want to know really is:

    above you seem to be talking about re-using air all be it clean with no oil mist wouldnt it just be better for engine to have fresher air inside it if anything or is there some benifit i am missing? Why have parts of the engine under pressure that dont need to be? also this pcv you are talking about what does that go in between on your escorts etc?

    the internal design of catch tanks are generally all the same weather it is for closed loop or open to atmosphere? just the lack of filter i geuss?

  7. biggest issue that i can imagine is the mounting points on car, if you do something like kpr did on his AE85 then i cant imagine an issue, pete was probably right though with saying the further you move it in the higher rating you'll need.

    150mm doesnt seem like much to me, you could even put them on an angle in order to have bottom closer to outside and top with more clearance for reyums, are you going coilover or what?

  8. yea i was going to say that you could sort of triangulate with your ladder arms or whatever they are called, out from the centre of the diff to the body (chassis rails if escorts have them) or i geuss yea, the other way from the tunnel to the outer most point on the diff.

    your questions interesting RE: mounting points, likelyhood is neither of those areas has sweet reinforcement to mount to from factory, i geuss if your going to have a cage or something you could try and suss something that kills two birds with one stone which could be lush for body rigidity

    ps: i have no exerience in this whatsoever so im just geussing what could work or what ideas id think of if i was doing it

  9. have read two posts in this discussion, but if it comes up as free on the plates.co.nz site then it should be sweet, if it doesnt then it should be on the system. im geussing both of these you have tried, im also geussing that the one on plates.co.nz was free. therefore im adding nothing to this conversation but ive already typed this paagraph so im gonna post it

    edit, yea hard looks like generic response, if you'd said to them you wanted XXXXXX plate they'd just be like oh lush etc. sale, unless i geuss they have someone that deals with VTNZ in freeing up plates thathave been deregd

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