crazy_rich

If its just plugging everything back up and making it all go I'm keen to give you a hand, I'd imagine it will all be very similar to my capri (which ive had in and out a few times) being the same dash.

Shot bro, mine had a week to go

Those OMP wheels look quite cool, similar to those repco deep dish wheels but seem to be of higher quality, I'm all about the quality.

cheers for the advice guys. I'll get a wheel and a boss and use KPR's trick to get it sitting perfect. Think I'd rather a nardi over a race spec yellow stripe one, (due to my general boringness) but wow they dont go cheap eh?

KPR, did you have any issues with cert on your boss kit? sounds like a good way to go about it. I guess if you just made a spacer and used it with a regular boss kit it would still be collapsable. Otherwise, Nardi, yep I can certainly imagine myself piloting my car with one of those... Cheers Snoozin, ill get on the hunt.

Sup fellas, I'm currently looking for a sweet tiller for my capri. My main desire is finding one with a good amount of sweet sweet dish, reason being due to my lanky lank frame with long legs and short arms combined with my funky pedalbox I need to move the wheel closer to me. It also must be at least 350mm dia, due to my lack of power steering and general strength. I've considered a momo prototipo, with not enough dish and a momo gotham which looks a tad tacky, as well as a momo 'drifting' served with far too much cheese, so basically what im asking is; does anyone have the inside word to point me towards the pimptastic steering wheel of my dreams?

Is it a borg warner 35? if so it should use type F trans fluid. Anything else, like dextron etc doesnt work at the same temp and will burn your bands out. I've got a BW 35 in my cortina, I had it checked over a few years back with new bands filter clutch etc. Cost just shy of $500 as an indication.

yeah with the cortina it was because I was slack and the reg had expired a few months back, hope it all gets sorted dude.

Done a few wee things I thought I'd share. Had a driveshaft made up the other week, it fits well, though it certainly confirms the need for some rear end tunnel modifications.

As you can blurrily see the oversize land cruiser UJ actually hits the inside of the tunnel. Its nothing I can't fix with the grinder, some steel and the welder, though im not sure about what to do with the seatbelt mount. Legally cars first rego'd before November 1979 dont need to run rear belts, but I feel its the kind of car that needs them. I'll have to have a look into the rules and regulations surrounding seatbelt mount repostioning. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?

Otherwise I've started looking at the front suspension. I'm going to keep it simple with adjustable platforms, 65id springs, uprated swaybar, probably 24mm, and some flash shocks. Urethane throughout of course. I've also got some adjustable camber plates I made up years ago to add to the mix.

I splashed out and bought all the new bushes and ball joints etc I'd need for the front end.

I also got new bushes installed into the rear tramp rods, so I'll be able to weld the brackets for those to the diff now.

Managed to find some xy falcon hubs to modify to fit the capri struts too.

I wanted to strengthen the crossmember and fix the dented up mess on the underside caused by years of poorly placed bottle jacks and vice jaws, so I cut out a bit of 5mm plate and welded it on top. I feel as though I can lend alot more confidence towards its strength now.

I also finished welding the engine mounts on.

So this week ill rip into those struts, paint a few things up and take another leap towards getting her rolling.

Cheers for your time- Rich

I'm getting the same message with my capri as well, it's exemption expires in a month, normally it'd let me extend it online. Might be worth calling the nzta fellas. Thanks for raising the issue, its reminded me to hold the cortina. Got stung $50 bucks though dammit, cheaper than a revin eh.

So you're running escort struts with a starlet steering rack? Whats your ackerman angle like? Have you run that past your certifier? In other news, I'm getting my capri's struts cut up in the next week or so to make them low, that might entail going to a 65id spring. If it does I'll get them to keep hold of the old spring seats. I'll keep you posted.

there used to be one in cashmere, down by the river. shitty little thing. god knows if its still there. had a sweet jump over the fence to get out.

I voted wednesday/ thursday, but really whatever etc. fuck ive been a member for 6 years and hardly met any of yah, what a sad cunt eh.

sounds good, cheers for that. Too many doomsday theories floating around the internet these days eh.

Has anyone heard anymore on this? I'm not keen to throw coilovers at my car and run into hassles come cert time. Is it just the usual scaremongering?

I'd say the drivers side is either old and sagged/ cracked somewhere. You could whip em out and get them reset evenly at a local spring shop. Have you checked to make sure your bushes are in good nick? your car could drop if one has collapsed.

R j patterson could be worth a go, fairly sure that part of town is up and running. Or Otbury Refinish Solutions

http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Panel-Bea ... _1249.html

WooHoo update time!!

I've finished welding the turrets in,

With the shock turrets finally welded, undersealed and out of the way I got hold of some J30 maxima rotors and fitted up the rear brakes.

I still wasn't happy with the ride height in the back, so I made up some lowering blocks to drop it another 30 something mm, They may be taken out down the track once the weight of the fully assembled car is finalised, but for now its giving me a much better idea of how everything is going to sit.

I also turned up some bushes to locate the diff on the springs properly.

Unfortunately I'm going to have to hack out the rear of the driveshaft tunnel to clear the diff head. I'm not too worried about doing this though I'm slightly concerned about having to move the seatbelt mount in the picture.

It'll be worth it though.

Thanks for the replies, Those anderson connectors are intriguing. Are the actual terminals smaller than say 2g cable? i.e. would it pull out past a grommet tight on the cable? Gonna have to go have a play with one.

I'm quite keen on the style connector mentioned in my first post as they act as both the connector and the 'grommet' through the firewall. Does anyone know where ring terminal covers are available?

I think I'm just gonna have to find a local supplier for these vte world people.

Some of these would be sweet for jump starting a race car. You'd want another isolator switch though.

Gidday fullas. I'm trying to find a way to safely run a live stud through my firewall to connect the battery in the boot to the starter motor on my engine. The reason I want to do this rather than go with the usual grommet is, I want to be able to unbolt and unplug everything at the firewall whenever the engine comes out and with the 1uz starter being where it is, this seems the best option.

I've googled up the parts linked below, though im not sure where to source them locally. Does anyone in the trade have any idea where I could source something closer than the states? anyone else done this?

http://www.vteworld.com/resource/html/pb_pt_compare.php

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74145/10002/-1

Cheers

Woah whats this dudes deal man? we're all retards now apparently...

The fact that is has a small inlet to a probably correct size valve isnt a case of false advertising, its a case of poor quality, probably driven by the fact that its a cheap knock off made from inferior materials that cant maintain their strength with the thinner wall thickness required to get the larger preferred bore. Much like you can always tell a cheap spanner by the thickness of the material around the ring end. The likes of Snap-on are made from much stronger materials so are designed to be alot thinner etc etc. Ultimately you get what you pay for. Hopefully someone can provide measurements of a real one.

It all depends what the industry standard is in regard to sizing blow off valves. IMO a 50mm bov has a 50mm valve in it. Its like wheel sizing. A 17" wheel doesnt measure 17" across the obvious face, its where the tire bead sits, as the industry stipulates. I'd be interested in measuring up a genuine one.

Gidday Greg, very cool car you've got there, I've always liked the idea of a 4age mk 1, you've pulled it off nicely. Regarding your strut swap, I once had the plan of swapping struts and running a skyline steering rack in my capri to clear the 1uz's front bowl sump. However swapping the struts and steering arms around will mess up your ackerman angle. Have a read of this.

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... kerman.asp

I'm not sure what escort struts are like but neither of my capri struts have a left hand thread, which would make me think escort's/ cortinas dont either. The wheel bearings should be correctly preloaded and secured with a split pin through a castle nut.

Have a chat to Gaz, he has successfully done a rack and pinion conversion on his mk2 cortina.

I've started welding the new shock turrets in, they needed moved back slightly to allow the shocks to be run on the rear of the diff to clear the brake calipers.

I'll be running some tramp rods on the top of the diff to hold everyting steady down there, I'll be interesting to see how well it works.