ProZac

Did it do it before you put your new wheels and tyres on?

Hmmmm, im not sure thats setup correctly, depending on what brand of boost controller your using?

The boost controller should have an in and an out, and just goes inbetween the wastegate actuator(s) and the inlet manifold. I would get rid of the tee peice closest to the inlet manifold in your setup and just plub the boost controller in there.

Bleeds can be a pain in the ass to setup, as you really need a restrictor in the pressure line before the bleed valve itself. Turbos flow a fuck-ton of air, and quite often if you just try to bleed some of it off, you can't get rid of enough of it to make a noticable difference, thus no difference in boost level. So you add a restrictor before the bleed valve, which means any pressure the bleed valve bleeds off has a large effect. (I NEED TO STOP TYPING BLEED).

Yeah... what kind of boost controller is it? If its a Racepro one throw it the fuck away right now. I've had good runs with the GFB ones that look like a bee-hive. They have a restrictor built into them, and aslong as you set the level you wanted and loctited the screw in place they were all good .

That extra hole will be for the aligning dowel sticking out of the end of the crank. The GSR Sigma flywheel must be a FWD one, as they dont have the larger hole for a spigot bearing, as the FWD mitsy stuff dosent run them. You can have it machined out tho, no probs. MPL Automotive, down the road from my work, can take care of that for ya, i can hook you up with the bearing cheap cheap.

I think the problem your striking is the narrow/wide block thing... I was under the impression that the mitsy commercial stuff (l200's, 300's etc) were wideblock? If you'r using a vr4 block it'll definatly be narrowblock

RWD non-turbo sigma's and FWD stuff will definatly be narrow block, thus the smaller flywheels. The wideblock flywheels wont fit into the narrow blocks, fucking pain in the ass when it comes to sorting a decent clutch.

This is where the difference in starter motors comes in aswell im fairly certain. I think ive used a RWD sigma (narrowblock) starter on a starion (wideblock) once and there were no issues?

If you need any FWD sigma parts come see me, i have a whole 3*2 dash engined one sitting on the back lawn doing nothing at all. Pretty sure it has a reduction gear starter motor in it aswell, which makes a nice touch .

No luck yet alas, my week at work has started anew, so i wont get a good go at it till next weekend, all you ideas shall be tried however, and the winning one shall recieve a prize.

If there is no winning idea your all going to burn in the fiery pit of hell, but you know, whatever .

I'd definatly go L20B, Shouldn't be to hard to get in there.

Alas, while a know a tad of engine, i know NOTHING of carbs.... I kinda know the theory of how they work, but i've never played with one before...

Fuck that, i'll just inject it .

nah, havent had it running before, so its anyones guess really... Its not a huge dealio, as i dont *need* a car, but i have to get it running before i can do all the fun stuff!

Hmmmm, threw some new plugs at it, retarded the timing a few times and still no luck... have to wait till my next way off now, but thats no biggie. Cheers all for you help .

Mint, just went for a run to clear my head, i'll try that as soon as i've stopped sweating like a pig.

Yup, i checked which way the rotor rotates, its anti-clockwise, leads are set that way :/.

Retardation here i come! (more so even ).

Yeah, gas gauge is up, and the filter has got some in it.

Damn simple cars, why cant you be more simple!?

.

Hmmmm, nope, tried that and still no luck. It would turn over nice and fast, then sound like it fired once, stop turning alltogether for an instant, then repeat the process.

Hmmmm, its a bit late now, but on my next day off i might whip the front covers off and check the timing in there... Who knows what dodgy bastards had this thing, heh.

I like that idea about the plugs, as it really dosent turn over particularly fast, I'm gonna try that in a minute .

Hell, i havent even had the plugs out of it yet... now thats a fucking good idea isnt it? gah...

Yeap, i get that, but i made sure it was at tdc on no1 on its compression stroke by having the tappet cover off, no4 was just ending its exhaust stroke. At that point the rotor is pointing at no1 lead. I did go and swap the leads 180deg tho, and it was the same, except this time there was the odd backfire.

I'll try some "start ya bastard" when my flatmate is home and see how it goes.

Checked plug order, it was wrong when i got it, ive corrected, 1-3-4-2 sytlez. When its at tdc, firing on no.1, the rotor is pointing at no.1 plug lead, so i dont rekon its out by 180 deg. .

Okay, its not the most complicated of engines, but i must be missing something really simple.

After fixing up some dodgy wiring, and making sure the grounds were all good, the starter motor engages (inertia type) and it cranks over. I checked it was actually sparking by removing the coil lead from the distriputor cap, holding it near the intake manifold and seperating the distributor contacts manually... it sparks, awesome. I set the timing the oldschool way, rotated the engine till the crank pully was lined up with the 9 deg BTDC mark, firing on no.1 cyl. I hooked up my voltmeter to the low tension lead coming from the distributor and a good ground, then rotated the distributor until it flicked up to 12V (i.e the contacts have *just* opened)...

Now, it cranks over, back-fires occasionally, but just wont go. Any ideas? A few nice high-res of an un-molested chevette engine bay would probably help if anyone has any? Cheers .

You know, ive had a fuck load of jobs before doing all sorts... And i can tell you there is alot more to work at Repco than you'd first think... 90% of the time is spent ordering and sending stuff out for trade customers, dealing with retail punters off the street is actually pretty uncommon.

Not that its a hard job, its pretty damn cruisey. I'll keep working there part time while im at uni, mainly for the ohhhh soooo goooooooood staff discount .

thats crap man, you need atleast one day a week off!

Looking good man, find a new door already! .

Not tempted to try your dash motor in it?

First step is getting it going, hehe. My flatmate is on the way currently. He also works at Repco, fuck we're in-bred around here.

Alas, the battery is dead flat, and this is my only car (I usually push-bike everywhere, save the enviroment, bloody hippy). Soooo i cant have a go at getting it running. I did get busy however, and gave it a good clean. I decided i'd start all the little jobs from the front back, and outside in. First was remove the kit, second was remove all the bodgy overspray from the indicators.

How it looked when i started... not to bad, but lots of paint marks and road tar everywhere.

After a good clean and cut. Man the paint comes up smooth and nice! Really amazing. Shame about all the scrapes and what-not, but its an old car you have to expect it. Its just flavour!

Indicator lense. The orange tints were all cracked and broken, so i've removed them alltogether, and will just run an orange bulb.

Currently im just waiting on my flatmate to bring a battery home, and i'll kick it in the guts to see what happens, wish me luck! Chur.

250507: Round 2!

New battery, check, Nulon "Start ya bastard!", check... and im off. The starter dosent engage however... there is a big click from the relay by the firewall, but nothing else... After taking the starter out and checking it (it went), i had a further look. Hooking the starter directly off jumper leads works... so i use a jumper lead as a seconday engine ground, and hey presto, she cranks over. Took the ground off and cleaned up up real prudy, now it cranks over fast, but still wont start. Preliminary investigations show no spark... But its getting late, so that'll be a job for tomorrow evening. Still not going, but definate progress.

Back when i did my entry to trades course at tech i alienated myself from the rest of the class by voicing an opinion that drinking and driving was such a fucking stupid thing to do, and i've never done it, and never will... God they were some stupid cunts. Generally speaking i'll have a glass of wine or 2 with dinner (omg alcoholic), and even after that small amount of alcohol i wont get in a car and drive.. fuck that shit. I'll work on them tho, and usually fuck something up from not paying attention.

I hope your sister is all good man, but it sound like she needs to sort her crap out, or have it sorted for her. I cant remember if you mentioned it, but what sort of age is she? if she's 22+ she should be way over this shit by now.

Start cutting out newspaper articles about families being killed by drink drivers and pasting them to her door. Do it till she cries, then maybe it'll get through.

Edit: show her this thread, she'll see what the true car enthusiast voice has to say about drink driving.

I cant think why anyone would hate Chevettes... They're pretty cool looking, quirky, but decent styling. They have coils on all 4, double wishbones at the front even. Also, they have a steering rack, not a god-damned shitty fucking box. Man i HATE steering box setups, leaky, loose fucking things... .

They are kind under powered... but thats half the fun of doing one up.

Man the interweb is awesome.

SOLD .

PMing you right now .

Just remembered that a guy at work has a bumper... off a 79 hatch... sitting at work doin fuck all. Will ask tomorrow if he wants to get rid of it if you want

So very very keen on that, chur!