ProZac

Just trying to get my chevette marginally straight enough to paint is doing my head in... Specifically a dent it had in the front. I've got it as close as i can with a hammer, but its right on the nose panel, where there is a little ridge, and it just never comes out right.

Now, interetsting thing is i have another chevette around the back of the house... Would it maybe be easier to cut the undented bit out of the front of that one and weld it in? With a few inches either side for luck? Or should i just persevere trying to get it to look right with body filler?

Will Definatly look fantastic lowered.

Im interested as to why it rides so high in the front at the moment tho? Its all stock right? You havent had the bottom control arms off perchance have you?

R100, you, me, manbabies, now. Mmmmmkay?

Cimmeron, or something like that.

That was what the factoy orange on the EX's, and i would assume thats what the CM in your paint code stands for, as my old lancer had a PM paint code, for Phamtom Mist.

Well, i've been a bit busy of late, new-girlfriend syndrome means less progess on the car than i'd like, and near-constant tiredness... Ahhh, well. Anyway, In the interim i've started fixing up the few patches on the body than needed attention. There was a bit of filler falling out of the roof, so i ground that out and fixed it up properly.

I also had a guards rolled, as a mate does it as a business and owed me a favour . The guard rollers arent really meant to pump out the arches at all, but i had him try just a little. It came out really really well actually, nice and subtle, but will look horny on some wide rims. This ofcourse involves stripping the paint off the arches and filling them smooth again... Its a bit of work, but will be well worth it i think.

I started fitting the nolathane bushes in also. I've got a spare front sub-frame all disassembled ready for sandbalsting, but i though i'd chuck some bushes in the rear trailing arms, just to see what they fit like. The kit i bought is actually for a gemini, but everything seems to be the same. Just imagine the rear arms a perfect smooth satin black, should look the goods!

Current aim is the g161 from the gemini 'round the back... Eventual goal is an N/A quad cam VG30.

Ive got a spare chevette diff, they're definatly heavier than 30kg i rekon, needs 2 people to move around easily, but then again i am a weak nerdy cunt .

I'm thinking commonwhore stuff mught be the go, to be honest im not to worried about having drums on the back still, just as long as the diff isnt going to snap on me .

But untill i break what is in there, not going to do a damn thing!

Cheers all for you input.

Piazza? Where? When? Hookups!

Right, i've been thinking about diff options for my wagon. I've only ever dickied around with IRS setups before, so solid axels are new territory to me.

My specific question goes to the function of a torque tube on the chevette. As far as I can figure out in my head, its there to stop the whole diff twisting as a reaction force to the wheels gripping the road. This is why when Zep put a hilux diff in his Gemini he had a ladder bar made, as it replaces the torque tube the hilux diff is lacking?

Im confused and bamboozed.

Your car gives my pretty serious wood man. LUB IT!

Your a fucking legend for doing such a huge mish and getting it going on time, its the damn fairy-tale story of car modi-fly-cation .

The name Andrew Watson really does ring a bell, but i cant place it... Quite possibly im thinking of a different Watson however... Elementary.

Ahhh, i finally understand how a Mk5 Cotry can be of use to me.... Go check where your fuel return line runs back into the tank! .

"friend" eh?

I wondered where that chuck out of your garage wall came from .

Hmmm, interesting.

The gemini tank i have is form a sedan and isnt going to fit the wagon i'd say... worth a try tho, as its got an electric pump inside it.

1256 Chevettes dont have em, If i go with either of my available engine, an a14 or a g161z, I'm going to need one, how should i go about it?

I can fit it under the car easily enough, bundy tubing i can get, but where should i plumb it back into the tank? Would the fuel filler neck be a good option?

Opinions?

*raises hand*

My flatmate has just got himself another job, im so very jealous.

That is fucking gold, the fishing rod is the best addition yet .

No way, deffinately not doing gemini front end now. I did want to when I first got it, mainly because you can't get them here so I'd have the only one. I know now I'd never be able to bring myself to rip the chevette front end of this one I'll just make it better. A full bumper and oil cooler hanging out the front might do the trick.

I went to pull the front off that gemini i scored from CUL8R the other day, and the guards pretty much disentigrated due to rust . Could be saveable, but i dunno...

Whats involved in putting the gem front on? The guards look like a bolt in affair, just drill out some spot welds and weld back in all the supports in the front?

I'd love a Kadett front end tho, those square lights and different grille, oh my... .

Yeah, i've thought about doing that, could be interesting. Both me and my flatmate have 2.5 hp 50l compressors... Hmm...

You sir, have all the information i need! I have just aquired a g161 engine, and also want to put it in my chevette.

Pleeeeease answer my questions!

What gearbox are you using?

Are the engine mounts a nice easy bolt up affair?

Where did you get those sexy extractors?

Love your work . Chur!

Yeah, i'll admit it, im a Mikuni fan-boy... Lub your work!

Well, i think i know why it wouldnt go. Have a look at this picture:

Note how piston 1 is at TDC, yet the timing mark on the front pully is nowhere near the mark on the front cover... Problem? Methinks yes! If only i was smart enough to chuck a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole and check it before i pulled the head off... But what ya gonna do? Headgasket was pretty toast anyway.

In other news, check out the dodgy throttle linkage someone has made for it:

Fully awesome... Definatly not going back on. The carb was pretty toasted and played with aswell, luckily i have another on the way and a rebuild kit at work for it. Should prove a fun project. I did purchase some new bits:

And remove alot of old bits, to be refurb'd or replaced:

I've purchased CUL8R's Gemini parts car, complete with engine, so that will be plunked in at some stage, but as i can get the bits to put this motor back together for next to nothing im gonna do that for the moment, that way i can actually drive it! hah!

So current plan is to freshen up the head, figure out what the crank pully is out of whack (im *really* hoping its not a slogged out key-way or something), slap it back together and get it purring, then actually drive it! Wha-hey!

Everyone should buy it so it can get the fuck off the shelves... Man those bottles are annoying to stock.

Thats some hardcore work right thur, Inspiration++

.

Now theres a good idea . Unfortunatly i have to work both saturday and sunday, but i'll give it another go on monday and tuesday. I'll get some new battery and starter leads and connections as the old ones were getting a little hot under the collar while cranking. My flatmate should be able to take my now some-what flat bettery to his work for a fry-up too.

In better news, i found out what the mysterious disconnected wire near the coil was for... someone added a kill-switch at some stage, so that solves that mystery!

There is definatly something dickey witht he carb... Its had an aftermarket air-filter put on it at some stage, and the throttle linkage has been dicked around with, plus its missing all the choke linkage parts! There is one on trademe im going to get i hope, so maybe that will help.

Cheers all for you help

Alas, i"m only one man, so i cannot check it while its cranking, which is where i think the problem may be .

Right, fresh fuel straight from the can, no luck. Compression test is worrying:

1) 8 Bar

2) 4.2 Bar

3) 4.5 Bar

4) 6.5 Bar

And thats with chucking some oil down the bores. Still shouldnt stop it from going tho.

Im going to re-wire the ignition circuit myself i think... The ballast resistor is built into the actual ignition wire itself, so you cant replace it if it fucks out... Seems a bit silly to me so i'll run some new wires and hope for a nice strong spark.