ProZac

when installing/removing pistons put a small length of fuel or water hose over the big end studs, they have a nasty habit of marking the crank or bores otherwise. If your getting things honed and polished up again, not to much of a biggy, always do it for installation tho.

So could you make something out of chevette guards and just put the headlight surrounds on or do you need gemi ones?

I wanted to do the front unclipping idea on my car. Will make things masisvely easier. Can you post pics? Does it still have as much rigidity as it did before hand?

I'll slice the 2 sets of guards in half, at around the middle of the wheel arch, weld the back half of the chevette one to the front of the gemini one. They're the same shape right up until the front.

Here are a couple of pics from a while ago, they show the brackets i've made, which are now welded to the nosecone. They bolt through to the inner guards in 8 places each side, and the nuts are welded to the under side of the inner arches. Big panel washers on the upper side aswell. The other benefit of doing this is that the nose is marginally adjustable aswell, for setting panel gaps etc....

http://yellow.co.nz/search.ds?newSearch ... rch=Search

hmmmmmmm.... any further details on where this beasty could be located? I'm thinking a long easter weekend mission could be on the cards.

How man wreckers can there be in Oamaru, right? Heh. I shall try and give them a call tomorrow and get someone to tell me if the front of the guards are okay... If they are, they're mine. Im sick and fucking tired of searching!

Cheers boe

The old man's one-tonner got stolen a while back... We got it back in the end, but the real shit-ripper was that they took the deck off the back. Hours and hours went into that deck, it was a fricken work of art... Made me real sad to think of some bastard just ripping off something my Dad had put so much work into.

As an aside, insurance is fucking bonus... It's insured with AMI... The damage and missing deck totalled out to about $2700 when it was quoted, the truck was only insured for $2500, so we though it'd be written off and we'd have to tender for it... AMI called and said because its a special vehicle, and they though it was undervalued, we'll pay out on the $2700 quote and you keep the truck... Fucking awesome buggers eh?

Believe it or not, i have actually been working on this thing... The front is all modded now with brackets so it bolts on and off, will make fitting a nice engine very easy. Im getting into the rest of the body work now, and it turns out my front guards are just way to rotten . I've put up threads on here and GMT looking for some new ones, but there dosen't seem to be much out there...

Please, oh gods of the internet, find me some guards!

Vision plus do put out more light than their bluevision bulbs however, and that white look just aint right on old school cars i rekon. .

Put Phillips Visionplus, or Narva Plus50 bulbs in it. 50% more light, same heat, completly legal.

I used repco 15w40, drove it normally but not overly hard for 500k's or so. Gave it death after that .

Iver talked to a couple of mechanics at work, and they just say that 4g mitsies just have super hard bores and are a bitch no matter what you do.

I havent had any problems with the 2 i've slapped together, and they were just a re-hone and re-ring job.

The kits off trademe usually have an alloy threaded tube do they not? I've always wondered how people get on with attaching these to steel struts. Some of them come with a sponge or rubber sleave that fits between the strut and threaded tube, and grub screws in the threaded tube you tighten up onto the strut, exactly like fitting a shitty aftermarket gear-knob to the shift-lever. That just seems dodgy as fuck to me...

Better way of doing it with alloy threaded tubes?

Damn fricken straight! Needs some slightly flared guards and hellishly wide wheels also .

Show some love fellas, we're all t-car fans here!

You wanna know what it really is? fucking purdy, thats what it is, chur.

After heaps and heaps (actually none whatsoever) of measuring and calculating, I hacked into the front of the chevette with the grinder. The Gemini inner guards are quite a bit shorter, so I cut the chevette ones to match.

I wasen't exactly sure where to slice them, as I had nothing to measure off with the gemini being all cut up, so I took an educated guess and hoped for the best.

It seems to have worked out reasonably nicely, as the first trial fitment went really well

I bolted the guards on with the one hole along the top that lined up, right at the back, and set the panel gap to the windscreen panel, then took all the measurements off that. The front panel bolts to front of the guards, so that was easy to locate. After having a squiz, my educated guess wasent too far off, deinfalty workable

Then I had to throw in the headlights and grille for a bit of inspiration, should look horny .

Bugger, that was quick!

Nah, alas, would have paid that for it tho, the front guards would have been handy to chop up.

Right, works done for the day, out to the garage i go!

The last bottle of tequila from our last transaction was the cause of quite a few dramas, was brilliant . I rekon I'll hang on to that front for a while tho man, i intend to have a chevette hatch all pimped out one day in the distant future, i rekon it could actually look pretty mean with the right wheels and some guard mods.

The front inner gaurds on chevettes and gemini's are a bit different it turns out, but nothing majour. I'll most the side indicators from where they are tho, probably go to some round ones further back the guard.

Things have gotten way out of hand...

Turns out my chevette nosecone was pretty banged up, and kinda rusty to boot, so it got the flick, im sure from the pictures you can guess my intentions however, should be cool. Gemini front guards are pretty rotten along the bottoms, but i can stitch the front of some chevette ones on to solve that.

Gem front i just whacked off with the engle grinder, hot knife through butter.

Chevette front i was a little more surgical with.

Pretty much everything i should need i rekon.

All the suspension arms waiting for me to sandblast, so they can be painted and have their sexy new nolathane installed. As an aside, CRC's Zinc-It range of paints are fucking amazing on bare metal, their Black Zinc somes out nice and semi-gloss, easy as hell to get smooth, and does not come off, at all, period. Minter!

Im a repco slut, PM me a list of what you need and i'll see what i can do. Due to the wonders of v-coding, I do shit way cheaper than trade levels on a daily basis for anyone that brings in a cool car. Some things you can knock a shit load off the price, suspensions bits, brakes, etc. Most of the retail shit out the front dosent come down much tho. Aslong as a stick just above my stores budget level, its all good.

This isnt just for Zep by the way, anyone in Christchurch feel free to rock into Repco Burnside and ask for Zac, Sundays are good, but during the week also. Just mention your from oldschool and we'll sort shit out. Bring your car if you can, my life is boring as shit and I do enjoy check out cool rides, hah! Chur.

Where abouts are you?

Holy crap, thats just freaking awesome, sex on wheels right there. Hats off to you good sir!

'R.F.T' spec if the only torque setting you need, Really F...... Tight. Also known as '4' on my rattle gun, hah.

It can also be a good idea to put the return line back into the main tank, as opposed to the surge tank, to avoid the fuel circulating continously and getting overly hot. You have to have a pretty decent lift pump however, to keep up with the demands of your EFI pump.

Wagon was cheap and there, but to be honest, its my first choice anyway. I'll have a hatch one day aswell, and import a 2 door saloon, droooool.

That 280zx belongs to the fellow that owns the house i rent, my flatmate also has one, along with the parts car they own, around the back.

Rare thing is that both my flatmates one and the one in the garage are the shorter wheel base 2 seaters, thus very very tasty indeed. Flatmates one also runs a stroked L28, with a large hair-dryer on the side, very quick.

Impromtu photo shoot!

The tools i have available:

The damage:

Ive been wrapping 180grit sandpaper around a piece of old broom handle and using that for the main shaping... I've tried quite a few times now and it just dosent come out right... :/

The lipped guards:

The other damage:

Ive cut the bottom off another gaurds to weld a patch in here however, as its been fixed before, really badly, so it needs a whole section welded in. This is the worst rust ive found in the whole car, so im not doing to badly really.

The parts machine:

The mean machine thats worth all the bother:

Gaps will probably just be left i rekon, Or i'll get the proper sealant stuff from a paint jobber store.

Thing is, the nose panel on the parts car has a few dents, but in other places... Nothing majour tho, i could probably fix those up pretty easily.

In other news, im pretty happy with how my slightly flared guards turned out, took quite alot of smoothing and sanding, but should be able to fit a good extra inch or wheel under them now .