DJZ

That's Kyle, he's a good sort. Genuine AE86 Enthusiast.

Sweet, I had a feeling somebody would know him.

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Not a bad way to spend $10,000

If you are talking about this one it looks like it has been welded and redrilled. Can't see it being that much "stronger", two dowels would probably be sufficient if you feel there is a weakness.

I can't recall what a 4AGE head looks like but there are these things on Trademe, way more expensive that using frost plugs as suggested though.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-552216496.htm

http://www.ringgear.co.nz should be able to supply you a new one if you need it. I've done one in the oven before.

You could try Shuk Engineering.

FJ falls into the same area as the L though, getting on and harder to find the little gizmos and bits and bobs.

They are getting on but forged pistons are reasonably cheap, metal head gaskets are cheap, full gasket sets are reasonably expensive though, the SR computer swap looks not too hard to do and from what I hear makes them run a lot smoother/better, I'll be attempting this sometime this year. Much more potential than an L20 and much cooler than an SR.

An RB will bolt in by slotting one hole in the crossmember. A VQ would be kind of cool and there'd be close to enough bonnet clearance with the factory inlet manifold?

SRs sound horrible, put an FJ20 in it! L20s aren't really unreliable (the computer and idle control can be) but they are underpowered, same power as a non turbo L28 and 50 - 60hp less than a standard FJ20.

Let me know if you are selling any of the L series bits and pieces, there's a few things I'd be interested in. You got a pretty good deal buying that car IMO.

How many GTS-25ts did you smash on the way home in that 4 door weapon? The ad for it on Trademe made me laugh.

The P65 is probably the "shortest" of the petrol manifolds, they are hard to find though. And petrol inlet manifolds won't bolt straight up to a diesel head by the looks of it. As far as I know all LD28 inlet manifolds are the same not including marine or industrial versions.

P65 on the left, standard L28E (N42?) manifold on the right.

Can't quite put my finger on it but I think somethings not right here.

It's a Koken socket, any good tool place should be able to get them. I tried to get an impact one but apparently the supplier doesn't bring them in to NZ.

Finally managed to track down some new leads, they are Champion ones and are a little bit funny, you have to reuse the top seals from the original leads but there isn't really a nice place for them to sit. Got to be better than the leads from 1992 though. New lead in the background.

Finally got round to buying a proper socket for getting the filler bung out of Nissan boxes. It's a 17mm 8 point socket.

The bung was very tight, I ended up bracing the power bar against the floor then lowering the car to get it undone. Now I'm no gearbox expert but I'm pretty sure these weren't supposed to come out with the oil. They are parts of a bearing cage and I suspect it's probably the countershaft centre bearing. The box has been noisy since I got it, it's probably been rooted for a while. The oil was quite thin and very, very grey/black.

Heaps much. I had new control arm ball joints made to suit a different hub assembly. Shouldn't be too much more than a standard ball joint rebuild which I think is $125? Small ball joints might be cheaper?

If you turbo it it'll need to be re-certed anyway.

I would refit the original motor and box (and mounts etc so it all looks factory), remove the cert plate and carry on.

You could ream the arm to suit a different taper or do what I did and get a new ball joint made with the taper to suit?

Should be M10x1, all of the Nissan 4 pots are I think. What did you do to them?

Passed my warrant. Car feels much much better with the new springs all round, just need to do something about the ride height. It doesn't look like it's come up much at the front but I think it's come up about 30mm in the rear if the cert plate is accurate. It's still not as bad as the DR though!

Also bought these off Kane, they are pretty sweet and I'm sure they are genuine Nismo ones, they are cool because they have hinges so you can lift them up to clean under them etc without having to remove them completely. Won't be fitting them to the car till I get some new headlight buckets sorted and painted, they are both cracked. I can't understand why anybody would go to the trouble of trying to fix them with more fibreglass instead of just replacing them.

Chances of them being tapered and not a metric thread are pretty slim, what calipers are you using again?

Mines an "XS Power" manifold but most of the semi decent Chinese ones I've seen are the same style, unless it's one of the squiggly ones. I've been told the ones that have the wastegate piping coming out the bottom underneath the turbo flange are terrible for wastegate flow.

I chopped mine off where the rest line is and welded 2" piping there and also chopped the two pipes off at the collector and ported the crap out of the holes as they were probably only 2/3rds the size of the pipe. I stuck my fingers in a new manifold at Jap Race and it was just as bad.

I'm 99% sure the driveshaft was balanced, I've got the receipt still but I've got no idea where it is.

The one down here that I can think of had a pushrod Nissan V8 in it, a Y40 or Y44?

Err see here maybe?

//oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=12732

You'll need a reasonably big turbo to get close to that, a big T3/4 might be able to do it or something like a GT30. I don't know much about the Holset turbos but maybe like an HX40 or the next size down?

Most of the Chinese manifolds have pretty poor wastegate flow and I'd say you'll be struggling with a 38mm gate too. I've got a 44mm on mine and have ported and enlarged the wastegate piping and it still looks like it's creeping.

Ah I see now. Burnt valve or damaged seat? It's still a fair amount of compression so it can't be that rooted? Can you see anything if you look down the port?

Do you think it's a bent valve or is it jammed in the guide? I don't know much about Ford motors but I'm assuming it's push rod? Have you had the rocker cover off?