DJZ

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35370

 

This seems similar/close. 

This is the thread he is talking about:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61549-turbo-intake-plenum/

The Audi race car manifolds are interesting but yeah, you don't need the fanciest of manifolds to make a lot of power.

What did you tee it in to? Did you bung up the barb on the compressor housing?

How did you plumb it up? Did you tee it into another hose?

Measurements are usually written on the seal, from memory they are 100mm OD 80mm ID. You might be getting the inner lip stuck? A little bit of engine oil on the inside of the seal and it should slide on reasonably easily.

Repco have never kept the bushes btw, they can get them but don't keep them on the shelf. They usually don't wear much unless something else is wrong so most people are only buying them when doing an auto to manual swap.

If you want to get your 3 psi back then yes, your turbo will be working harder to make the "same" amount of boost (read at the gauge) though. I'm assuming your boost gauge is after the intercooler, the way you are set up now if you had a boost gauge before the intercooler you would probably see 10psi, but you are only seeing 7psi at the manifold. If you move the wastegate line to the manifold the manifold pressure should go back up to 10psi but your turbo will be making ~13psi before the intercooler.

I'm tired but something like that!

Follow the hose from the actuator and see where it goes.

Where is the actuator boost signal coming from? You could try moving it to the inlet manifold if it's not already there.

Yeap, I can do that.

Talk to Prozac, he had all that figured out.

Are you using a boost controller? If so, what type?

The top port is above the diaphragm where the bottom port is below it, applying boost pressure below the diaphragm when the top port is open will open the wastegate when it overcomes the spring pressure. Applying boost to the top port only will make the wastegate not open, also don't block the top port off when using the bottom port or the wastegate might not open.

If you have an electronic boost controller you can usually use both ports, it applies boost to the top port until it reaches full boost, this keeps the wastegate shut longer, in normal operation they will tend to start opening early.

I'm tired so this may not be accurate or actually make any sense at all.

I've got a set of those, they have a plastic insert inside near the square drive but it's not going to protect the hex on the nuts. Aluminium on aluminium should be okay though, like the spanners for the fittings for braided line?

From what I can remember in EFI cars the water running through the throttle body is more for temperature regulation of the intake air than anything else.

I bought one of these and have done two windscreens with it now, once you get the hang of it they work pretty well. I heated the glue with a hot air gun then managed to slip this in from the outside, then you pull it along slowly cutting it. I know you can get the wire cutters but I'd be worried about scratching the paint etc.

Start as many different modifications as you can now with an aim to have them all finished the night before track day.

Sweet, it's definitely for a big port then.

What's a second hand 4AGE sidedraft manifold worth? I'm pretty sure it's for a big port 16V motor. It doesn't have straight runners, they kind of curve forwards, I guess to clear the brake booster or master cylinder?

I don't know anything about K series motors but 3KB head and twin carbs bro.

I would probably put proper hose clamps on everything if I was you, I don't trust those squeeze together ones with anything EFI.

'82 & '83 L28ETs have optical dizzys. If you need them in a hurry you can have mine if you replace them at some stage, I'm not going to need them for a while.

Is it an optical dizzy? I've got a new cap and rotor that came from MSA in the States.

Got the check valve round the right way? Or as said above adjust the master cylinder push rod, it's pretty easy to do.

I glued the reaction disc onto my push rod after losing one inside the booster.

Waup waup, possibly your reaction disc has fallen out.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/

I've had Z's slow to drop revs when running auto computers on manual cars.

I would start looking around the temperature sensor, check for broken wires and maybe change the sensor if you have another one.

The L28 (and FJ) TPSs actually have very little adjustment, it's only a 2 position switch, idle, full throttle and anything else in between is supposed to be where the computer runs in closed loop with the O2 sensor. Set it so the two idle contacts are touching when the throttle is fully closed and so they break contact when the pedal is just touched. You can be the full throttle contact a bit so that it's in closed loop mode for longer which should equal better fuel consumption on a good running car.