DavidTheCreator

time for a engine conversion me thinks

not to sure yet ned, still looking for a job :/

tried pulling the brake leaver in

just brought a electric bike, the only english writing on it says www.chinayamaha.com but there doesnt seem to be any such website.

but anyway, i dont know how to start it lol, i can turn the key to the light symbol and all the lights work but it wont let me turn the key to the ignition symbol. is there something im supposed to do so it will let me?

yea sometimes, its supposed to be impossible to boil

sweet, i try and rock 5.1 when i can

pretty sure it is joshs one, gutted.

would have to get KK in on that action aswell, so theres a falcon wagon and a commy wagon

as kk said, how confident are you of your tappet setting ability? (not saying you are shit...)

on an engine that isn't running i'm

as confident as a mechanic i'd say,

i rebuild bikes in my spare time, so no stranger to doing valve clearances,

as for doing clearances when running, thats something ive never tryed

is easy as, actually easier when its running

a guy i used to work with rebuilt a old morris 1100 engine for a mate years ago, after he was finished he started it up and it made a taping noise so he pulled it apart, found nothing wrong then put it back together and fired it up...it still made the noise.

long story short, his mate had swapped the dipstick with a longer one and it was rubbing on the crank

stock pile them while there cheap

lol dont get anyone started on that again

yip, there is a build thread on here for that starlet. the owners username is 1vaknd

loving the s12 and ta2x's

i wouldnt worry about it over cooling the oil, my concern would be that there are more places for oil to leak from

chur make sure you troubleshoot some of the basic things before you jump to replacing coils/afm etc. Here's what i would do for a rough idle:

Make sure you have no air leaks (by the aac unit, j-pipe connector and air regulator hose, all blow by hoses are tight, all intercooler fittings are tight, and all intake pipe clamps are tight), your vacuum should be steady between 17-22 in/hg, make sure you're not throwing any codes, if so, fix them (obviously), make sure your battery is charged and charging while on, all powered accessories are off, then, with a multimeter:

-Make sure the idle contact is engaged on the throttle switch when the throttle is closed; ~8-10v closed and 0v opened.

-Make sure your tps is within voltage range; ~0.50v +/- 0.05v closed and ~4.0v wide opened

-Make sure your AAC is working properly; terminal 1 should have battery voltage when "on", and ~6-7v idling cold, and ~8-10v idling warm.

-Make sure the Air Regulator is not stuck open; It should be open/half open at at 20* C and fully closed at 60* C. You can check by taking the air regulator off the car and applying battery voltage to the regulator and visually seeing the shutter close. It should close within 7 minutes.

these are just some figures and info i have found on the net, im no rb guru or auto sparky but they should all be fairly simple to check.

David

could make your own

http://www.buildeazy.com/carport.html

http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/outdoor-furniture/marquees-gazebos/auction-444255537.htm

that sort of thing work?

I love the Escorts! Spotted parked in Village of the Park.

that sucker was my first car

Lock up your mothers.

will do

keen

vacuum leak from the carb or one of the removed and then put back on vacuum hoses?

timing retard to much?

gona make it to this one, promise.

hopefully have a old car buy then

proberly wont have any luck with them

heres some 155/70/13's though

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/auction-443176823.htm

i hope it isnt parked on some long grass

love it, whats the plans for it?