Chrome_GT

Two good Alfa forums:

http://forum.alfa156.net/forum

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/

I'm suffering a couple issues with myne too.

1) When cold, the car pops, and farts and doesn't rev above 3k etc for the first couple hundred metres.

2) Engine hesistates when hitting 5400rpm. Shame really cos the v6 screams beautifully between 6 and 7k.

But it's a very sweet car otherwise!

There are two on falsgrave, one deals small qtys the other doesnt't. I think Stewart Steel is where the company i work for gets it's small quantitys. If I've given you the wrong companies name then try the other.

Man i gotta see this. If anyone has any details on the dates they'll be at various places chuck them up on here. I'll go searching now

Its more about the fact its parts are worth more if I sold them separately, so I want it insured for the replacement cost of the parts.

Sorry mate but I agree with the others above. A car is never worth the sum of it's parts. It is very rare for modified vehicles to sell at a price which covers the mods. Mag wheels especially and ice are parts you'll never get your money back on.

Done a quick search on my other local - Ford Capri Laser Forum.

http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/sea ... mit=Search

Here are some replies etc

http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/vie ... t=door+pin

You're going to need a special tool to be honest. I'm not sure about the ones on ebay but you can make your own. You need - 2 lengths of 1/4 inch diameter round steel bar. One needs to be 2 and 3/4 inches long. The second needs to be 2 and 1/4 inches long. The second one also needs a 45 degree bend 1/2 an inch from the end. Finally, you need a length of steel bar, 14 inches long, 1 inch deep and 1/2 inch wide. Drill a 1/4 inch hole about 1/2 an inch deep 1/4 of an inch from one end of the steel bar. The round bars should sit in the hole nicely. Fabrication lesson over.

The top pin has to come out downwards but you can loosen it by tapping it upwards. Put the straight rod in the hole first and hit the bottom of the flat bar with a hammer. When you want to knock it from the top you'll need the angled rod in the hole to get access. The bottom pin comes out the same way. Remember to use loads of penetrating oil to make the job easier. You can use your new tool to insert the new pins aswell.

Me and a mate used this, or at least a very similar idea, to change the pins on his car and it worked. Sounds more complicated than it is really. If the tool you've seen on ebay looks something like what I've described then it might be worth getting one, but making one is fun! Give me a shout if you need a hand mate.

Mark.

http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/vie ... t=door+pin

as Stocky says...why remove the dash...thought everyone knocked the pins out.but bottom one can be awkward due to shut line of bottom of door.i made an offset drift up..only takes a few minutes to remove each door,a "tip" is to let some pen-oil sit on top of the pins for a while before knocking em out....have fun..

Good luck

Spray heaps and heaps of wd40 into pins too! Mine failed a wof cos door moved up and down. Was pissed that it failed. But after pulling pins out realised that the door was close to falling off. The pins were shattered / corroded right through

Replacement roll pins were available at EDL fasteners in Chch based on dimensions. Blacks can probably do them too. Nothing special

Sykes Pickervant make the tool also. Or at made one.

It's been a while (8 yrs) since i did myne, i borrowed the sykes tool of a workmate.

If i remember right it has to be done in this unusual way because of the way the door is shaped. Maybe someone can confirm this

I reckon you could make a tool easy as.

A

Buy a long bolt, Turn the head down so it will slide down hinge bore but is still bigger than the roll pin ID. poke through the roll pin inside the hinge, thread a nut on the other end. Then use a fork of some sort to belt down on the nut. If i remember right it has to be done in this way because of the way the door is shaped. Maybe someone can confirm this.

May be more like this

B

Buy a long bolt and nut, Turn the nut down so it will slide down hinge bore but is still bigger than the roll pin ID. poke upwards through the roll pin inside the hinge, thread a modified nut on the other end above the roll pin. Then use a fork of some sort to belt down on the bolt head.

Do any of you in Chch know where a Hans device, or similar, can be bought locally?

Also looking for full face helmets with built in comms. Once again is there anywhere locally which sells these?

Will also consider countrywide so feel free to chuck other stockists details up

Thanks

Ray

The above posts reminded me of the ater water sprayer trick. We use that all the time and should help especially with the fan pulling it right through. Easiest way is irrigation equipment from bunnings etc as bubblegose said. Use a small pump or even consider a pump up weed sprayer as should get a good 60seconds out of that. If your only doing burnouts then removing bonnet shouldn't be a problem eh?

Have experimented at work with a continuously high reving 2stroke.

Setup 1 = 2 x 15l/min davies craig EWPs - delivered 30l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes.

Setup 2 = 1 x 80l/min davies craig EWP - delivered 50l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes

We did get a drop in Engine temp of up to 5° so it did work but not heaps. Some would say youd get better heat transfer as the water is hotter across the radiator so bigger temp difference between that and the ambient air. But at the same time this means that warmer water is being flowed into the engine, therefore the temp differential there is less. It's and energy thing not a temp thing - you'd need to know flow rate and temps drops to determine the energy dumped.

Water wetter didn't seem to help in our case - however have heard good things about it.

Can you substitute long lengths of rubber piping or hoses for aluminium elbows and straights?

Maybe chuck a heater matrix somewhere and use it as a secondary radiator. I wouldn't put this in line though as may be a flow restriction.

Run your in car heater on hot

Go with less coolant - water is the best thing for ripping heat out, coolant disturbs this. All coolant does is give corrosion protection and increases the boiling point. Maybe drop to 20% as 50% seems far too high.

Sounds like your all thinking the same as me. Yeah I had been very cautious around bends since being aware of this. Have no fear, the car is off the road at the moment. I will sort this out over the next couple of weeks. I have a spare rack so if a shaft replacement is required then thats no big deal. Although considering just getting it fully reconditioned. Last time i had that done in yr2000 it was $200 or so.

Steering Rack slips!!!.

When turning wheels under load so either when stopped, or when taking a heavy turn, the neutral steering wheel position shifts. So could be driving down a straight road, steering wheel left tilted before a right turn and after the turn becomes right tilted . Scary huh.

When stationary, when turning SW from side to side you can feel a graunchy slip.

Feels like the spline of the shaft or something has worn. Definitely down low in the rack and not at the steering wheel or shaft coupling. Anyone had this problem before?

GRDWALKER - did you sort the starting issues?

I found out that my issues were caused by my coil. Worth checking out

re dissy cap. I replaced that a couple times over the last few years aswell. It has been showing more wear than usual too.

Anyways. The new coil made an instant difference to the starting. It now fires up after one crank whereas before replacing it has taken 4 cranks or so to get it to fire up, if it fires up. Now that it starts so much easier i expect that moisture won't be an issue. Spark appears slightly bigger as compared before replacing and after. Haven't noticed any significant difference in the power. Capri seems gutless, I must have suffered the power bug after driving a v6 alfa for 5 months.

Next time we have a wet shitty week i'll switch back to the Capri for a few days. Will be interesting to see how it goes.

i had a prob on my escort when i had it but it was because i didnt realise that the wire to the coil was internally resisted and i had a ballest resistor and a resisted coil .. god that was stupid

That's exactly what I've done. What were the symptoms you were having with the escort?

CIC31 - Champion Coil, 12v with internal resistance

CIC32R - Champion Coil, for use with external resistance

I changed the coil a couple years ago from whatever was in their to the cic31. Since around that time i've had issues with contacts burning out and also more wear in dissy cap than expected. Recently I have found drying out dissy with hair dryer has helped start an otherwise non starting car if moist. Car has felt gutless and spark isn't as bright as i thought it should be.

My theory as to what has happened:

-Fitted 12V non ballast type coil despite having the external ballast resistor

-This has burned out contact points regularly

-Coil has burnt out or degraded due to mismatch <- any thoughts????

-Spark has become week

-Car has been a bit gutless, won't start with moist conditions, dies in really moist days.

-The slightest amount of moisture, which is normally not a problem, has been causing problems since the weak spark voltage is less tolerable to moisture. This is why i found drying distributor up has helped.

Will fit correct coil CIC32R today and see what happens. Obviously time will tell if that is the reason for points going but hopefully car is less effected by moist days, starts first time, and has more spark = more power

Someone in another forum said that a 12V coil (with internal resistance) would get burnt out on a car with the extrenal ballast resistor. Why?

It is also suggested that this combo burns out points. why?

Hey all, got ongoing issues with the Capri:

*Spark is there but i'm suspecting it is weeker than it should be

*points are pitting regularly - far more often than they used too years ago. Note that replacing condensors didn't fix this. I always replace condensors when i replace points and set points using dwell meter not just feeler gauges.

*Have had issues starting and has died while running on moist days

Does this sound like it could be the snowballing effect of having a bung coil?

What are the typical symptoms of coil failure?

What diagnostic checks are there?

Hey, I'm suspecting i have issues with my dizzy too.

What are your signs of worn bushing - axial movemnt or side to side looseness?

im starting to get really fucked off with my front coilovers

had 300mm length coil over springs in it

had them wound all the way down to the bottom of the thread and was at a nice ride height but the springs were about 10-15mm uncaptive

so i took the shocks out and got them shortened 20mm and at the same time swapped the springs over for some in the same spring rate that were 250mm length so that i had some ability to go lower if i wanted

so i put it all back in and had the lower spring seat 30mm form the bottom (50mm shorter springs - the 20mm of shock ive had chopped off) and the thing is way higher than it was before, ive takin it for a few drives so it should all be settled

ive had to drop the spring perch but another 15-20mm to get it to sit at the same height so my springs are even more uncaptive than they were before??

Hey I quickly sketched this out.

Your first try: 300mm springs, shock min thread at equivalent 315mm => 15mm clearance

Second try:

250mm springs raised at bottom so effectively 270mm springs.

Shock shortened 20mm

So.... 270mm springs, shock min thread at 295mm => 25mm clearance

To me it makes sense you've made them more uncaptive. Shortening the shocks by 20mm woul've only been ok if you'd kept the 300mm springs. Because you changed to shorter spings you need to take at least another 25 off (with rasied lower seat) or even more if you keep lower seat lower.

Another way to think about it: If you 'hadn't touched the shocks or the lower seat, but you shortened the springs 50mm then you would have 15+50mm clearance =>65mm uncaptive. Basically the problem was you went for shorter springs which worsens the uncaptivity.

key goes to on as normal?

if so prob something in the back is wrong. pull apart and fix it lol.

Haha, you must've known what i was in for. I pulled it apart and f#*k bits flew everywhere. Springs and small ball bearings. Oops. Turns out the torsion spring had broken inside the switching unit.

FIXED NOW! replaced switching unit with a spare one, it now works great.

I Have found the fault. It is the rear switching unit which is attached to the barrel by a couple of grubb screws. It didn't go to III. Have tried turning a spare with a screwdriver which works nicely.

I'll take the switch from spare and solder the orginals loom to it.

The loom on the spare is trash and firedamaged at the plug!!!!

I'm pretty sure my Capri doesn't have steering lock - well either that or it has just never worked. Despite this i did try wiggling the steering wheel with no improvement. I do have some CRC contact cleaner which i'll use to clean the bits if i dismantle it.

Yeah goes to run or II as normal.

Got some graphite powder today. Will try it out tomorrow.

If i have no luck with that i'll give crc a go. Have heard bad things about crc and ignition barrels so will avoid if i can.

If I'm still having issues guess i'll have to rip into it. Have read elsewhere that there are internal numbered bits which can be replaced once worn. However that may be fine in england but doubt ford NZ will be any help.

Something is up with my ignition barrel in the Capri. The key won't turn to start or position III. Have tried both my worn out keys and a spare which has the original key profile nice and sharp.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Does lubricant help? Which one is used in ignition barrels, Dry graphite or oil?

Has anyone had their barrels rebuilt?