Chrome_GT

How much does it drop to per year? Does the WOF period change?

Weird huh, I put my Capri on hold using same method a couple months ago without the same issue. In this case it is for my mini which is 4yrs since last wof & rego. It has been on hold since then.

I shouldn't have to wait until the 12 months is completed before extending either, never have before and i've done this heaps of times - genuine though. crazyrich & runamuck - did you get charged 50 because you didn't extend the exemption before it ran out?

Will call them today or drop into the post shop to figure this out. Will let you know the outcome. I better not be expected to hand my plates in.

Cheers guys

has anyone else had trouble extending their exemptions from licensing?

I get this message when trying online:

This vehicle already has a current exemption from licensing

If you want to extend the exemption, go to an NZ Transport Agency agent to process your transaction, or process the transaction online just prior to this exemption expiring.

But it is due in 3 days. I tried a month ago and thought i was too early. But now its a bit close. Would hate for my car to become deregistered!

IMO

a) thrust

drag. 500N (travelling at constant speed therefore sum of forces acting on body = 0)

c) Weight (as opposed to mass)

d) 14000N (8000+6000)

I second that.

Or could get trickier and say:

a) propulsive force

aero drag + other mechanical resistances (drive train etc) 500N

c) weight (weight is a force which includes gravitational acceleration, mass is..........a mass)

d) 14000N

wicked questions

If you have a CAD file of the gasket there is a place up north where you can get them made really accurately. Perhaps not what you are after but i'll post a link up here once i find the name of the place.

We got a whole lot of CR500 barrel gaskets done. Was cheaper to get them made than to buy them!

Sorry at any time after the 3 month minimum period has gone.

Always take the 12 month option. You can then cease the lapse at any time to begin road registration again.

It is free as long as you dont go over the time applied for. Doesn't cost anything unless you screw up.

I hope this doesn't happen. I often chuck the Capris rego on hold for winters etc when i have a build up of work to do. My Mini is on hold too since it requires some body repair.

Original Capri: 32/26dgav no fuel return line at all, the location is cast solid.

Currently fitted: 32/36dgav with return line. From a 78 Cortina - i kept the return line, fuel sender etc just incase i wanted to retrofit this to the capri.

I just added a Y connection in before the filter and ran the return line back to that. Hopefully the return line also has a check valve otherwise this could be allowing fuel to bypass the filter.

http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13

from above site - may apply in your case too:

"Did you know why the Weber 32/36 carb has a fuel return line? It's nothing to do with overfilling or anything like that! In fact, up to 1976 they didn't have a return.

The carb is designed to draw in the fumes from the fuel in the float chamber to prevent them building up. Trouble is, if you leave the car idling on a hot day, the fumes created are excessive and affect the mixture sufficently to increase the emissions leaving the exhaust.

With increasing legislation against pollution etc, it was decided to put in a return line so that a constant flow of cooler fuel was passing through the carb, hence reducing the fume build up and lowering emissions.:""

"Weber's official method for fitting the later carb to an earlier car is to T the return hose back into the supply from the pump a couple of inches back from the carb, using a T piece with a one way valve in it"

Hey this sounds very familiar. Are you sure you are using the correct coil?

The symptoms I had:

Capri was a pain to start - i resorted to crc engine start regularly just to get it to spark up

Capri would seemingly run ok until i pulled up to traffic lights - went dropping to idle it would sometimes die and then not start at all

All symptoms were worse on wet days.

I thought it was mixture too cos there was spark - it'd been a while since i last saw a normal one so didn't realise it was weak. I also thought i had a loose distributor shaft as it had some axial play. Turns out I was a dumbass and had fitted a non ballast coil in my Capri which does have a ballast resistor. This meant less voltage was available for sparking it up. Took a while to find the fault, over a year if i remember right.

In your case you may have the wrong coil or your coil is just stuffed.

Haha,

in 2002 (Forgotten how exactly i did this). I hope it actually happened and wasn't just a dream.

Throttle Cable in my Mini snapped.

So i re routed the choke cable to the throttle link on my carb. Got home controlling throttle by pulling on the choke handle. Worked well!

If i remember right i tried to route it out the back of the bonnet and across in front of the windscreen. I definitely did this to trial it but can't remember if i drove it home like this. I hope not. I must've gone through a heater duct hole in the firewall or perhaps through the original throttle cable position.

Blown Head Gasket.

The blow back is the ignition from the adjacent cylinder when the gasket is blown between the chambers. Have you checked compression yet?

I had this on my capri once and it took far to long for me to diagnose - felt like a knob once i'd realised. I went down the same path as you've been lead on, ignition timings etc

Repco used to sell them too. But yeah they are expensive and usually a later model head unit is cheaper for the same specs.

When i worked there i remember it was very difficult to get manufacturers cables for cd changers. I think you had to provide serial numbers etc. Once again it was to discourage theft.

Avon engineering in chch sell the tools too. The rivnuts are available at blacks fasteners.

They are a genius thing - don't hold up long term in Carbon Fibre but sweet as in sheet metal. If using in fibreglass, carbon etc apply release wax to the thread on the tool, then bung the rivnut in surrounded with epoxy. Then wind in a wased fastener to keep the thread clean until the epoxy sets

They are addictive!

I know this is a couple years old.

But for completeness sake i had the exact same symptoms in my alternator. I found that one of the rectifiers diodes had lost it's solder joint and was shorting out against an adjacent plate.

Hopefully someone will come across this in two more years time and it'll save them buying a whole new alternator

Why?

It's the number 13 thing on your diagram too. If i unsolder 2 wires and undo one nut it looks like the whole diode pack (13) comes off. Should be pretty easy. Might have a crack in the weekend once i've bought a soldering iron.

Have sussed out through a capri forum that it is a diode. They referred to the plate assy as a diode pack. My plan is to unsolder the diode pack and rip one out of one of my spare alternators to solder back in (or just use one of the spare alternators if they charge ok, I think i destroyed my last ones windings). This alternator is about 5 years old.

Backround - My ignition light was lit when key in off position, but lamp died when key was turned on. 74 2000cc capri

Basically there was a short. I noticed there was a shorting sound coming from the alternator when i had the plug in the back. Underneath the end cap there are 3 plates, with connector stalks running through from each plate to a winged connection apparently fixed to the top outermost plate. But one of those connectors had come loose so the 3rd plate was shorting to the second. It looks fixable!!!

I can bend the connector back into place. And with superglue i can hold it in place. Otherwise it'll likely shake loose and short out again. On those connectors there is a black cylindar. I'm worried that even if I do the above fix the connection under the black cylinder may not be too flash. It is impossible to get a soldering iron underneath.

What is the cylinder?

Can i simply fit a jump wire between the outermost plate and the innermost? Therefore making the same connection as otherwise achieved by the stalks

or does the cylinder actually do something , resistor, capacitor etc?

Help much appreciated.

http://www9.qha.com/uk/technical/qhcatalogues.htm

If you are looking for parts for your classic you'll find this very useful.

I've used the catalogs quite a bit. Great when selling parts as you'll easily find other vehicles which use the same bits (use ctrl F)

yeah .dxf are the most widely used for 2D cuts. Make sure your .dxf is output at 1:1 scale and there is a sample dimension so they can check before cutting. Otherwise you could end up with a very big bill.

Great to hear.

here's a link i just found:

http://www.plane-training.com/students/ ... dOnceMore=[type+Function]

Have you considered Aircraft Engineering? similar technologies, so you'll learn useful stuff, but at least your not sick of cars at the end of each day. Probably more opportunities for career growth. You could end up on GA small planes, airline jets, helicopters, jet engines.

I did the pre-employment Air NZ course 36weeks full time. It was a brilliant course! You learn a bit about everything. I followed it with a mech eng degree but some mates who took jobs have done very well for themselves in the same time frame.

It is run in chch but I'm pretty sure there is an equivalent up in Auckland too.

Does Acid dip also remove rust? - I like the idea of being left with a clean shell with lots of clean holes.

My impression is that with anything other than a dip you are likely to avoid the areas which most likely require the attention. Kind of forces you to do the job once but properly.

As someone said - make sure you are running the correct coil. I was running a non ballast coil in the capri, even though i have a ballast resistor. Didn't notice for a while until i started having trouble starting the car when cold. Also chewed through points more than usual if i remember right.

So check that out.