v3k

the quality of port job is also going to have a major effect... Was it a tidy up of casting defects? or a preformance porting?

as for twin 40s being good for 170bhp... are they really? on a 1600?!?!

Being that is more than 100hp/L that would be full race tune wouldnt it?

unfortuantely the DARK FLAT RED will simply be a sales person/marketing link to the colour they use.

Dark - any shade darker than normal

Flat - useful... at least that cuts out other finishes

Red - well, any shade with a tinge of red.

So pretty much if you want an exact match, these details tell you nothing. However, if you have just bought a bike for your kids. Ask the store owner if you can borrow the red bike, take it to a paint matching shop and they will give you a docket with a few numbers and colours on it. This is their reciepe to make that paint. They can then make it in any volume and for any delivery system (from pre-made aerosol cans to 10 L buckets).

I must say, tad unfortunate you got pinged out of 4... But then I have never been fishing and caught EVERY fish.

Another point to consider, and to suggest pay up.

you were doing 63kmh...

Even if the speed limit was 50 you would stil have to pay a ticket. They wont dismiss the entire ticket. At best I would imagine they would reduce it to 13kmh above limit ($100 or so?) but then factor in court costs, time off work etc... Might be worth just going... "Damn, bit of rough luck"

Switchlade knife

Why do you have one of these in your car (and I hope you didn't tell the cop it was missing).

Bad luck man. Never fun to have stuff stolen. Good luck finding you lost items, and the person(s) who took them.

Ill keep the mk2 in mind

Ive finished whinging... cheer guys

Camaro was 15g,

the insurance was 1700pa at state (but declined due to age)

Im just trying NAC to see what their quote is

I was so close to getting back to oldschool proper this weekend.

I was in discussions with the owner of a 1974 Camaro, running a shift kitted TH400 and a 454 big block (go the 7.3)

I cant get insurence (Im under 25) unless I go with NAC - and I dont really want to as I believe their premiums are rather high.

I have an 8 year clean record with state, already got a V8 with them. But they said even if they would insure me, the excess would be 3g (left hand drive) and the premiums = $1700 (before no claim bonus).

Damn - there goes that idea of buying a muscle car

I like. Simple

I think the school of car design

7 metres long,

+

seats 12

+

two doors

+

huge V8

=

Cool... But then Im a fan of 60-70's american cars

I did a calc once on going with 1.6L head on 2L block... got about 13.5:1 (or 14 I cant remember).. Maybe major compression?

Best news. Ever.

Hello C**k face - awesome!

*phew*

(note - with TBI sometimes the effects don't show till later. But the Hamster lives!!)

how do you drive? which suits your style better...

Take a REALLY poor example from me.

I love power, but I bought a V8 commodore wagon... Why? I like to drive around using bugger all revs. So torquey engines like a 5L V8 suit me.

I know people who like to work the revs and the g/box when they drive... so the higher revvers are for them.

Which are you and which suits your 'sunday driving'?

if you cant seem to pin-point the problem (bear in mind we are guessing here - havent seen the car and all...)

Get a call out mechanic to have a look, he will do the compression test etc and give you an accurate idea of the problem. Otherwise you might spend $$ on the gasket set (and time replacing it) to find it was something else.

Next step - The library. Get out (or photocopy) the troubleshooting and head gasket replacement parts. Always good to have a reference.

the 4k i had with a rooted head gasket dove fine. Just went through alot of water. It was just hard to start (cranked but took ages to fire), ran like a sack of spuds to start with (few secs), used a bit of water... but otherwise drove ok (even idled).

However,

A mechanic had looked at it before I purchased and did a compression test... 3 cylinders were fine, one was stuffed.

You can have a blown head gasket and it still run ok (for an old car!).

Get a compression test done. Or just replace the head gasket (and all other gaskets you get with a 'valve regrind' gasket set) its a pushrod 1600 isnt it? - shouldn't be too bad - I managed in the back yard with a rusted in head bolt... (and Im a mechanical leper)

(aftermarket one goes off the clock after about 2 mins of driving)

Um... Warning sign?

If you are using the temp sender (the bit that screws into the block) that came with your aftermarket water temp guage then its accurate.

Anyway. Hope it is just damp contacts. Would a spray of crc help? to expell moisture?

if you are leaking oil and your oil level is constant it means coolant is getting into your oil. If you have a shagged head gasket you will have no compression either (in one or more cylinders).

Also. I have owned a 4 cylinder that has a poked headgasket that would run. But as one cylinder had water seeping into it over night it ran like a sack of shit till that cylinder drove out the water and was hot enough to evapourate any that sept in.

Also if coolant managed to get to your dizzy (not familiar with layout of engine) is it possible you pressurized your coolant (head gasket again) and sprayed it out a tired hose/join or something?

I looked it up - apparently diesel oil has more detergents and cleaning crap in it than oil for petrol engines... Thats about it I think?

I have contemplated using some sort of engine clean stuff but have heard stories of them dislodging big chunks of crud that clog oils lines etc and consiquently starve your engine of oil in some important areas..

Opinions?

and ruin every seal in the engine too?

on a slightly different subject...

I think the last owner sort of was lax in relation to oill changes... The rocker arms etc are covered in black deposits. Will frequent oil changes remove this slowly? or do I need to run an oil flush before the next change? or take the rocker covers off and get cleaning?

The tranny is a TH700 - I was looking on the net for the 'correct' procedure (and under the car) looks pretty snug on sides of trans and most info on net says to change its oil you take the trans pan off (refil through dipstick 5L of tranny fluid!). - Those are the bolts I was refering to.

As for the cam being noisey... I think I'll let it tick then! Dont really feel like getting a new cam for it. (its done 280000kms by the way!)

Not so sure on the coby extractors - I have heard they are shit? But should be better than the stock manifold anyway.

But a raise in compression, better induction and a more agressive cam is a good start. But with all engine mods - without a 'good' flowing head you wont get all the benefits. So some $$ on porting might be a good idea.

the only thing it 'needs' at the moment is a gearbox oil change. No biggie, I can sort that out (although would need torque specs for the bolts) But there are a few other things that I might be interested in doing.

like.. decarbonising the engine, changing the lifters/injectors as one of them is quietly ticking at idle. General mechanical tidy ups.

Its going to be parked up a bit (Im moving to within walking distance of work) and I thought it might be a good time to go over it with a critical eye and sort things out and would like a reference point.

I was just sorta trying my luck here, I'll probally just buy one next pay day (damn monthly salary).

think the answer is this

2Fe + 3H2O = Fe2O3 + 3H2

this reaction happens at high temperature of both Iron and water (steam)

Fe2O3 + 3H2 = 2Fe +3H2O

It also happens in reverse.

You do need oxygen to be present

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust

However the by-products of combustion are CO2 and H2O and these combined (in a pool particularly) form carbonic acid which starts pitting the metal and starting the rusting process (this is why you middle and end mufflers rust out first in your exhaust system, water pools in them).

ANYWAY - lovely thread pulled back from the dead.

Lets be honest, if you dont plan on keeping your car for more than 2 years, it shouldnt really matter because if exhaust wrap is a problem, it wont be yours. If you do plan on keeping the car for ages, HPC coat it for that underhood porn.

HAHAH - fair call.

dick

Hello,

Just thinking about doing some stuff on the commy and was wondering if anyone here knew of anyone who has a workshop manual (or know a place where I can download one).

I know I should stop being a tight arse and just buy one, but I'd rather not spend the cash at this point...

Im mainly aiming this square at sykoV6.... i believe you got rid of your SS. Didnt happen to have a useful book did you ?