Gaz

Self adjusting ford brakes suck.

From memory can manually adjust by pulling back tab on back of backing plate which turns the self adjusting cog. Then spin the cog. I'm thinking back a bit but this seem to be similar to what your seeing?

Do in line with what kk said above. Bleeding brakes ain't hard but can be a cunty job, start furthered away from master cylinder. Some small ford fed rear left before rear right and some just had a t at Centre off diff and fed both at once.

Gaz

If you want to be really cautious then:

- Check oil level

- Pull dizzy out and youll find a hex drive which drives oil pump

- Manually turn hex drive with socket and prime engine

- Watch cam spray bar, when oil is coming out of here then its fully primed 

- Replace dizzy

- Start

Its how I did on my new build pintos.

If you cant be farked doing this then just rip off rocker cover and lube the cam lobes.. this is the most vulnerable point of a pinto (usually due to geometry not lack of oil though)

Gaz

Sand rust. Treat. Epoxy prime.

Wash down after events.

Done.

Duncan got his done recently by someone too. May give ta another option if wantef

Shiet thats good pricing. Who was that?

Gaz

 A mobile guy came to my house and blasted my whole shell excluding froof and rear 1/4s (which I hand stripped) for $800

I then jumped in and primed it myself, whole job for under $1000 

I looked into this...Porirua Blasters do it, not many people in NZ can do it yet (was 1 year ago when I was looking into it.

Obvious benefit is that its cooler so warping panels is less likely.. yet still possible.

I ended up acid dipping which uses water to wash after dipped. They then coat in a product to draw moisture out and protect.. you then have 3months to epoxy etch which again is a water barrier.

Not sure on the DIY kits, I wouldn't bother personally.. in saying that its over 2500 to get a whole car done no matter which way you approach it... soda, acid, sand, dry... 

Gaz

I've gone with all black undercoat as base is a really dark green.

Only ever used ppg so jus a bit rattled here with new products and a not very logical website.

But yeah valid points.... will order tomorrow.

Chur

Hey guys,

Anyone used Dupont paints before and can advise if what I'm about to order is the best product of theirs to use. Everytime I go into store to pick brains they are way to busy.

List to purchase goes as follows: (need to paint rx2 inside, outside & under)

2k 3.5l High Prod Surfacer 1057R

1k 5l Centari 600 Basecoat (metalic colour)

2k 5lt 120SX Standard clear

Questions:

1. Can I use a hi build primer as my main primer or do I need a finishing primer also?

2. Centari seems like the normal paint they use for base... is there a better one?

3. PPG do differant types of clear, should I be going for this standard clear or is there a better one to use?

Any helps/comments welcomed. Dupont is the supplier I need to use over PPG so just need to know Im getting the right stuff.

Gaz

Its what the guys put on after the panels were acid stripped. They ask if your going to immediately coat or if it going to sit for a few weeks/months prior to painting. If not coating straight away or if it may be subject to moisture then they put this stuff over it.

Gaz 

ive got no exp with that stuff but just wondering where did u get it from? im looking for some appears to good shit but apparently you can only get in 20L but idk

Right lads in the know.

Henkel Emer-Tan..... I have all the Rx2 panels stirpped to bare and now sitting covered in this product. Im ready in the next few weeks to epoxy prime. Have read data sheet but not clear on if I completely remove it or not. I was thinking rubbing panels down with prepsol as normal prior to paint but perhaps not with this stuff?

Anyone got exp?

Gaz

Engineer yes

My backup bottle is argon and I use it in mig without issue. Lately using to weld panel steel.

Argosheild or panelmix is better though.

Gaz

I had new rx2 ones made but they are not curved.

Go see grayleys plastics petone. They may be able to help.

Gaz

Have emailed. Looking into the one with programmable curve for potential future proofing.

Also to note:

Cost to buy parts (rotor, cap, points, condensor) to refurb a std dizzy is $150... well worth the extra little bit for a whole new electronic dizzy!

Gaz

Accuspark seems a bit cheaper, anywhere in nz to get em or are they all order in from UK? .

Gaz

Was out at Aidens yesterday but forgot to talk to him bout the subbie ones.

Sounds like an ok unit. How do I contact directly?

Will ask bout cap also.

Gaz

Just wondering if anyone has used one of these.

Lucas 45D Electronic Dizzy  - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=990715961

mk1 Cortina has no spark from dizzy to plugs and dizzy is pretty old and worn. Rather than buying new condenser, rotor, points and cap I thought Id just upgrade to electronic. I believe I can use on both my current 1500 and the 1600 Kent once I rebuild.

Keen to hear  more info/review from anyone in the know.

Or other options / better pricing,

Thanks

Gaz

You should be able to return to swirl pot only. No need to return to tank aswell I don't think.

Gaz

I have 2x wellmade ($200 each 1.4mm & 2mm) and one puma suction 1.8mm.

The Wellmade guns are nice and all you would need for home jobs.

Would like s devilbiss but don't paint enough yo justify.

Also need 13b rear counterweight which I think you may be able to help with?

Gaz

I've got a differant epoxy.

Havnt sprayed it on so can't comment on sheen.

Your coupe looks to be rusty same place as mine around guard. How's the front just behind front wheel at bottom of door jamb?

Looks straight for bare!

yes.

Pinto run 45s but to do this you need a bigger cam and lightened/balanced engine. Port work will set your back at least 1k on a pinto for anything decent and you need to find someone who knows what they are doing. Look up David Vizard.

Gaz

100 on a gun is way better than 50 on a gun.

It's not their epoxy primer? That's what I'd be using/am usung for bare steel.