Burntrubber

8.8 should be ok. I think tensile grade's go from 4.6 which is mild steel up to 14.9 from memory.

I had it ages ago in my Gemini I changed the wheel bearings hoping for an easy fix in the end I put a whole diff housing I had in and it fixed it. I found that the torque tube rubber was ripped so I decided thats what it was.

It won't be to hard to setup depending on how mechanically minded you are. Setting up the fuel delivery and the choosing or modding the stock carb(s) will be the hard part. You can get it to run reliably but obviously not as good as injection. All depends on how much you wana spend because it wont be that cheap.

How about the plugs shit running when cold and cutting under boost are symptoms of faulty plugs especially the cutting under boost.

I had this happen to me when I first turboed my Gemini I locked the dizzy and ran 22 degrees static timing was good untill the plugs were a few weeks old because they were new when did it all. Anyway changed battery first then the starter then the alternator then backed the timing down and it was all good. That was over a year ago and I still use the battery that I thought was fucked.

The 2.3L is a lot longer than the 2.0L my mate has a MK1 escort he bought a 2.3 turbo engine from a Mustang and it didn't even fit in the engine bay he reckons. He already had a 2.0L in there and he had already moved the radiator froward when he did that but it still wasn't enough. He's keep the carb and carb hat and most of the other turbo shit.

I would love to put a 4ZE1 in one of my Gemini's would go awsome they also come injected and all that injection stuff fits on stock Gemini engine's. There was one on trade me a while back for $400.

I have a couple of 1600 Gemini engines if you want one and can also help with turboing them.

Cool... although not really wanting to go the turbo route with this one, more the cammy high-reving NA screamer... what sort of work would be needed to slot in? Recommended 5 speed?

The engine its self pretty much goes straight in gearbox needs a hole cut for the shifter not sure about the drive shaft though.

I have a couple of 1600 Gemini engines if you want one and can also help with turboing them.

My engine runs 28.3psi which is more like 28psi bit hard to get the .3 thats at idle and about 35-38 under load. The pressure depends on what the injectors are designed for they all vary. Low pressure can be caused by a stuffed fuel pressure regulator and also check the voltage going to the pump if its below what the pumps rated for that will cause problems aswell.

You want a rising rate regulator for your turbo setup but you probably already got one.

The r32/r33 turbo's are good for 250kw more so the r33 its the same as the r32 turbo but with different trims and flows a bit more I think. Not 100% sure on how true that is just have a couple of mate's who are into Nissan's and talk about this sorta thing all the time.

Whats the engine and ignition is it points or electronic. I would say you have some of the wiring mucked up done it myself sure you have it right but no got no spark.

I like the r32/r33 turbos they are a great turbo for 2L or a more worked 1.6L. They were all ball bearing and most with a ceramic turbine which made them spool real quick I know a few people who have used them on 1.6L's and get boost bellow 3000rpm. I have one I'm gunna use on my 2L Gemini I reckon I will get good results from it. If you don't like the ceramic wheel you can go for a VG30 one from a 300zx alot of them had a full steel shaft rather than the ceramic turbine. They also have slightly different trim I've been told.

acetylene will explode without ignition if not under pressure with certain things won't it? (just tryin to remember)???

Don't think so but it will explode if compressed to more than 15psi.

Gasless wire is sweet on stuff over 2mm especially if its galvanized. Its not the best on panel steel but someone whos good with it can do it. We use it all the time where I work like 10 5kg rolls a month. Its also very expensive about $100 for a 5kg roll.

120amp mig is all good for panel work not really much good for anything above 3mm although most are rated to do thicker they tend to struggle to actually do it. Use it with a shielding gas coreshield wire is a bit tricky on thin stuff but its sweet on 2mm+

Used to see it parked outside beurepairs lately seen it down lower port road near herikeno street. Its very tidy don't see many MK1's especially wagons up here .

Mate bought some for his 13b PP but he flagged it and went with an IDA because he got told they would'nt be any good for the rotor. I remember him saying $1200 that might be each I dunno.

My friend got his misting jet from this place I think he got the switch from there also.

http://www.waterinjection.co.nz

Me an a friend made a setup about three years ago for his 1.5 SOHC turbo 323 think it was an 84. We used a washer bottle pump from a VT Commy because they run 35-40 psi which is good compaired to jap ones. A proper misting jet from aquamist and an adjustable pressure switch to turn it on. We just used washer fluid with a little extra added methonol worked sweet as he ran 12psi for about 4 months then it blew the head gasket and he thrashed the tits off it.

Those numbers are on most jap injectors Jecs is the brand I think. You need the number stamped into the top. I need to know some cc ratings of some R31 skyline injectors I have also.

Clutch pack.

LSD's were only optional on the non turbo's DOHC or SOHC and the turbo's had a differant diff setup I think.

First carb I used I made dry air seals so it leaked clean air not air fuel mix. Latter on I put an un modded one on and it was fine aswell.

A stock 32/36 off a Escort or Cortina will handle the boost fine with a few minor mods. I modifyed the secodaries on my Gemini years ago cant remember exactly what I did it involved welding a lug on to operate the second throat and removing all the vacume bits like the actuator ect. I used a holly fuel pressure reg a pump from a 13bt Mazda luce and the webber carb for my setup was all good once I sorted all the teething probs. Should probably upgrade any rubber fuel hoses aswell seen as there will be more pressure. As for the floats make sure they are plastic ones not brass the brass ones arnt as strong.