Burntrubber

Machine up and press a dowel into the existing stud holes. Have done it not sure if it's legal have also seen them welded again not sure if it's legal.

I'd say say fuel issue my wrx did it years ago would start idle fine drive ok at low throttle no boost as as soon as i gave it a little more it would fall flat and come back to life as soon as I lifted off. I only drove it like that once started on my way to work so I just got a tow truck to work where I figured out the pump was on the fritz.

im getting an inlet backfire at most startups, what would cause this?

I was getting alsorts of backfires on startup with my megasquirt on my Gemini. Turned out been voltage drop while cranking caused by old starter Motor got it fully recoed new windings etc. I had tried everything to stop the misfiring with no luck and it ended up been something that seemed fine.

Cool thanks brakes are vn commodore rear disks calipers hand brake aswell on a 84 gemini it's all bolt on no modified parts. It's a pretty common mod is Aussie. Fronts are s5 rx7 4pot calipers with BMW 270mm disks. It's more the brand I was told I will be getting best pads I can get to be honest cars turboed needs to stop as good as it goes lol. Current brake upgrades passed last time which are turbo isuzu piazza front and rear the new setup is roughly 40% better so I'm sure there not borderline thanks again.

Brake pads for certification? Are there any rules car is currently certed years ago but doing new brake upgrades and someone has told me pads might get picked on when I get the cert updated.

I did my own 5 years ago and there certed. I am a qualified fabricator and have welding tickets but I think rules have changed since then and the need to be done by an approved wheel specialist. Only what I've been told tho not from my own experience.

Gota watch them the stop working its real common I've had three all stopped working mines stopped at 20866.6

Not worth heaps mines turboed widened steels LSD diff conversion better brakes reasonably tidy paint fully certed and I doubt I'd get 6G for it

Agree meagasquirt ecus are awesome it's the DIY design of them that gives them a bad name because 90% of the people who chose them because of the cost and the fact they can do it themselfs actually can't. They still need to be set up to a professional standard not backyard styles lol. Even a factory or top brand aftermarket ecu will have problems if the wirings dodgey.

You defiantly need to sort laptop out and data log it you'll be able to see everything that's happening when it cuts out. In saying that you'll need to learn how to read the logs also which isn't hard but will take bit of time. Everything else has been covered if it has even a little bit of dodgey wiring it'll play up. For me battery in the boot and old worn starter made for couple of years of crap starting until I recoed the starter cause it died. Once recoed it pulled less current and the megasquirt didn't get all pissed off.

These look mean boned on some 22s my work mate has a white one with gold 22s real head turner

My Nissan turbo has a crack in the exhaust housing and can see one in the water jacket aswell but I don't run water so not sure if it leaks. It's been like this for over 5 years and I run 18 psi aswell. Depends on weather your keen on the risk I never even considered it and I've been lucky I wouldn't repair it tho don't think welding the turbo core is a good idea maybe the housing.

Can't see how they could charge or impound a car on private property in theory they could come and take my drift cart quad bike and motocross bikes that are pretty much only ever driven recklessly I do so on my driveway which is shared and open gate to there's also a cop who lives in the area. Does sound like neighbor may have a friend in law inforcment.

I also asked about it on the lvvta forum and got same awnser heavy bushs on the diff end. Bushs are just to make it softer nicer to drive etc. I had made mine with bushs on the front originally but changed it when I found out I made them myself used the stock outer arms and some threaded bar.

I have recently done diff conversion in my Gemini which is the same ad a chevette and I used rose joints both ends I had major issues getting info out of my certifier as he was unsure. I ended up going to a local hot rod shop and asking them they said rose joints on front as minimum not allowed rubber/urethane on front ok on the rear tho/diff end. I have set it up with twin arms pointing toward the center to help it roll and it goes through full travel and the bars a still loose no binding.

I did originally have all the holes filled and one left for reset it worked fine I have one of those DIY auto tune ones aswell now because I was trying to track down a starting backfire/lock up. It ended up been voltage drop sad old starter sucking all the voltage up and the ecu didn't like it.

I agree I was abit hasty with my cas wiring and coil driver grounds when I converted from fuel only to wasted spark and I had heaps of issues ranging from poor idle up to coils frying after only 100ks I'd love to get a fully featured MS3 my old MS1 has done me well tho. I have nothing to compare it to except one of my mates has a link not sure what model on a pretty high hp sr20det and it has shit cold start and running and idle is bit shakey and he's been told its cause of the big injectors.

I run an old ms1 v2.2 and it's sweet had issues but all my own fault lol number one thing is grounding all needs to be what the online tutorials say if you cut corners you get issues. My car runs awesome starts good drives sweet cold which seems to be the hardest thing to do with after market ecus.

Only thing is its an Xbox one exclusive.

I've used it surface needs to be consistent like pollished or bushed but consistent because it sorta looks different colour on the different surface finnishes

Gemini fronts fit with the rears I know Gemini wagon and sedans are different length wagon ones are shorter I think so wagon rears in a sedan would make the rear lower than the front not sure about a hatch tho.

I'll grab a pic soon I just moved house so needed to find them. If stronger is what you want the piazza is obviously a lot stronger than Gemini 2mm may not seem like much but it is when it comes to the strength of metals.

Gemini bearing numbers:

Inner:L44649 cup:L44610

Outer:LM11749 cup:LM11710

Piazza bearing numbers:

Inner:L45449 cup:L45410

Outer same as Gemini

Could do a picture but I only have hub caliper and stub no disks I sold them. Also if your searching piazza parts/info online try Isuzu impulse instead that's what they were called in the states and there's a lot more info compared to piazza

I've got one I lost the other one some how anyway I looked at stub sizes years ago and I still remember the Gemini stub has an inner bearing dia of 26.9ish and the piazza is 29mm the outer bearings are the same have a list of Timkin p/n around somewhere if you want them.

Yip time and patients I've done all my engine components myself the right gear and don't be to hasty to wanna see it bling and skip steps do it all properly every step. Last thing I did was my rocker cover took about 25 hours I'm no professional so probably way to long but it looks mean because I didn't skint on any steps.

Sounds like ignition to me also have had same issues in several cars my Gemini did it when I increased boost from 12 to 18psi was the plugs boschs under 1000ks changed to ngks and fixed it. Latest was my wrx plugs been little hard to get at I didn't check them first they were smoked car started idled drove fine unless I floored it new plugs fixed it. My escort years ago was points same syptoms. And lastly my wife's laser was the ignition module.