AE25

facebook page for pics

https://www.facebook.com/events/902781863094799

late notice on there as usual.. invite invite invite

this sunday peoples

Who's meeting at cruise points?

Advertised on the following forums:
Oldschool.co.nz
toyspeed.org.nz
zclub.co.nz
MR2OCNZ
NZGem
NZDatsun
SCONZ
Post up if you know others of interest

cant update original post 

Place: Massey Uni Albany, University Ave, outside 'The Ferguson' bar.

Date: Sunday 18th Jan 2015, 11am - 2pm

Map:

https://maps.google.co.nz/maps?ll=-36.733106,174.703518&spn=0.000955,0.002064&t=h&z=20

Date: Sunday 18th Jan, 11am - 2pm
Place: Massey Uni Albany, University Ave, outside 'The Ferguson' bar.

Cruise meeting points at Westgate outside pizza hut or greenlane McD's 10am, departing 10.30am ish.

kumeu hot rod show same weekend and 4'n'rotor nats the following weekend.

No booze, burnouts or stupids!

Previous meets and info can be seen here
http://toycrazy.net/gallery/classicjap/classicjap.html

Facebook page coming...
https://www.facebook.com/events/ ...

Please invite friends and tell anyone you know who may be interested. This event relies on word of mouth!
hope to see you all there

Will be advertised on the following forums (links to be updated)
Oldschool.co.nz
toyspeed.org.nz
zclub.co.nz
MR2OCNZ
NZGem
NZDatsun
SCONZ
Post up if you know of others of interest

Discuss in this thread

dad had a mg? sprite?  convertible thing with spoke wheels.

70's hilux.

honda civic 2nd? gen.

brown ke36 wagon, 4 kids in the back going AKL to gizzy and back every christmas.  back firing down hills.

'81 ke70 wagon.

Falcon 500 wagon. got pinched/ joyrided/ written off.  police rocked up next day saying they'd found it.. we then looked in driveway and noticed it missing.  cops said they'd jammed a key in the ignition to start it.  But that was permanently stuck LOL.

Datsun 1600 ute, big dent in the door from the neighbours goat.  with 'THE GOAT' written on it.

'81 bronze town-ace (round headlight), so lush with aircon in the back.

Austin allegro, grans handmedown when she stopped driving.

'85 fxgt corolla. learned to drive in this.

highschool mate lost his virginity in the townace at a party.

family history of driving them till they die.

yea it'll have elec dizzy.  depending on year it could be internal or external ignitor.  can also use a 2tgeu diz which is more common.  tps is common to many 80's toyota.  even the fwd 2e powered ep70 starlet had same spec tps. 

not complete engine. but enough to build one.  which i am.  one day.

that engine better be saved!  if anyone goes knocking.. ask price + efi bits

shiney!  nice choice of P-plate too.

quintins site has a bit of kp61 4age info.  http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~quibel/Starlet2a.htm

can buy kp-4ag mounts on trademe.

efi can be the biggest headache if you're not clued with electrickery.  plenty online guides for wiring 4age's so google is your friend. 

Can get away with a brake pad upgrade for cert but can easily cook them when hacking around a track.

K50 and std diff wont last forever if thrashing it around all the time.

a bit spendy, but Weir performance in the US i believe will make 86 axles to custom length.  if ever one breaks

can you fix the pics of diff/axle stuff?  not working.  so 650 complete live axle head 4.3 ratio trd lsd?

being a 4ag bell it'll have the square flange on the input snout.. thats another way to tell a 22spline vs the round flange of a 20spline.. if the bell hasn't been swapped already that is.  output shaft splines (driveshaft end) is the only failsafe tell tale it seems.

Short shifters are personal pref, but need to have good cups on the ball ends otherwise easier to select wrong gears.  Shorter throw means can run taller shifter.   just be cautious if it's a cut/welded shifter as a poor job can break on you.. like i had.  in my early days bought a trd short shifter. shifter turned out to be a diy welded jobbie.  it broke at meremere selecting 3rd and over revved the 2tgeu (lightened flywheel, no rev limiter) and it run a bigend.   

price on slipper?

also how sure are you thats a 22spline t50?  have you counted output teeth?  the bell is 4ag for sure...  it's just I've never come across a 22spline with the big nut on the top of main casing.  and i've seen many many.

Is welder still being a cunt?   if thats a single phase boc industrial 250c then i got same. shes a good welder.  took me few goes to figure out the wire speed is also the amps.  The two selector switches are the volts.  So get enough heat into the weld with the wire speed knob, then tinker with the voltage switches until you get a nice crackle to it.  If it sticking in the weld or wire pushing gun away it's not enough volts, but heaps of spatter and plasma ball is too much.   I tend to use not even a quarter amps on car related weldies.  the burn back adjustment knob inside above the wire feed gears stops the wire burning back to the tip and sticking to it after you stop welding.  Theres more than one set of feed wheels available for using different wires like alloy.  you probably know all that but just in case

Heh. Yea first question is 'have you got gas'. Always the simple things

sounds like afm is working.  any hissing around the intake pipes or intake plenum with engine running?

fuel pump going in correct direction?  if you pull the return hose off (firewall end with regulator) and put the pipe in a glass jar to collect fuel.  turn pump on and make sure it's pumping through from the rail.

And does it bog down if you push the flap in at idle?

Can u trust the fuel pump?

does sound like afm.  I had this happen and can't remember what caused it.  helpfull aye.  was over a decade ago so meh.  possibly split the intake hose.  I could rev it up if i pushed the afm flap in to match the revs it was doing.

You double sure you have no leaks between the afm and engine?  check the afm plug has all the pins in the plug and in the afm.  can be possible for a pin to drop out or bend.

check the afm flap moves smoothly.  You can test the tps using an ohmeter on the plug pins.  I don't have the specs in front of me sorry.  

Could possibly be dodgy wiring on the ecu pins for afm too.

You could check the afm is working by running it at idle, then push a rod thru the afm flap slowly.  the more you push the flap, the more it richens the fuel mix untill it bogs out and sputters.   if you push the flap in and nothing happens then ecu is not getting any afm signal.

The engine will still run with the tps unplugged.  a wavy idle can be due to the tps not engaging the idle switch.  The tps is a basic idle + full throttle switch.  not the variable resistance tps as explained by 77magnum.  You can pull the black cover off (unclip tab at top and bottom then swing the case out from the side) and see if one of the switches engages at idle.   If it doesn't engage, it just means the ecu will be adjusting a/f mixture using the oxy sensor (like it does whilst cruising).   But at idle it doesn't react fast enough and the idle speed can fluctuate.  It's not uncommon for the plastic knob thing on the throttle shaft to wear out from vibration.   If it's seriously worn then jam a piece of icecream container lid around it.   The tps are common to other early 80's efi toyota's if you need to replace it.

hmm yea the fuel pressure reg are common to split the diaphragm with age.  can check just by removing the vacuum hose from it with engine running.   it'll piss fuel out of the vacuum connection if it's fubar.

can you take a pic of the engine and in particular the hoses on the intake plenum?  i may be able to spot anything out of place.

I drift with the F series version from jdm rt132 corona 2000GT which is identical to the US ma46 supra.  same disk setup as jdm ma45.

Hand brake entry was shit with the te71 brakes but the ma45 were pretty decent with 195-50-15.  slicks are too grippy for them though.

Disks can be imported from the states.  I see you can buy complete new aftermarket rear calipers and seal kits from here too.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1278389,a,Ad%2BCode%2B

ive bought spare disks from here and callum in gisborne has too..  ie us$30 rotors and it ends up being iirc $180 landed for a pair.

genuine toyota rebuild kits are discontinued but can still buy oem te71 levin kits which are basically the same.

ma45 rear disk rotor dimensions are here

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1280080&cc=1278389

 

Yeah I grabbed it as the front half will mate up to the AE86 Rear half I have. The back half is potentially available though. I actually went looking for the diff but I was way too late.

No I have MA45 Backing plates, Calipers and Discs which all bolt on just the disc needs a locator made up. I do also have a set of AE86 calipers and Silvia discs up for sale that are similar to what you described but I decided to run with the larger rear caliper.

Oh ok as far as I was aware they were essentially a 1 way which locked under accel but very partially under deccel so more like a 1.25 way. My plan is to get a clutch kit out of T3 to rebuild it and shim it out to be more agressive.

oh yeh, i grabbed that.  kinda surprised it was there a month after car arrived.  doing similar thing, using ae86 kouki rear with ma45 brakes but into a ke74.  then shorten the ma45 rear for the ke26 with te71 brakes.

ma45 and ae86/te71 have the same 60mm diameter locator size.   not sure what you mean?

It would be more like a 1/2-1/2 way.  works in both directions but doesn't lock up like a ramping 2way.

It looks like T3 sell the www.weirperformance.com maxgrip lsd rebuild parts so you may like to check the original website out too.

if it idles fine then it wont be cold start injector.  to see if it leaks, pull it out of the plenum (don't start engine whatever you do lol).  get the fuel pump running by either turning the key to ON and pushing the afm flap open or bridging the pump check plug (2pin plug in loom leading up to the afm usually).  with the pump running there will be fuel pressure at the injector.  if it leaks it'll drip, or gush.

They may be referring to the double diaghragm on the dizzy.  not sure if nz version has it?  If it's anything like the other 80's toyota engines with mechanical/vaccum advance the 2nd diaphragm operates when engine is cold to give extra spark advance.  it'll have a vacuum hose running via a tvsv (thermostatic vacuum switching valve) in the thermostat housing usually.  (i dont have a 1geu in front of me to see where it is) then to the plenum.  basically the tvsv is open when it's cold and allows plenum vacuum to suck the spark advance further on low load situations.  Cold unvapourised fuel doesnt burn as well so extra advance can be added to have peak combustion pressure at the right time.

You may also have a gummy injector.  have you run some injector cleaner through it ever?

Have you checked the engine and ecu earth points?

ah thats where the ma45 shaft went!  was searching all the cars around it hoping it'd been put out of the way heh.

Re ma45 rear disks..  are you making adaptors to space the 86 calipers out and sideways?  im curious how that goes aye.

Also the oem lsd aren't 1 or 1.5way.  That only applies to the ramping style lsd.  The oem lsd with spring loaded clutch are at a fixed load and don't lock up once they start slipping.   I'd suggest to check the break away torque and constant torque to see if it's in working condition.  ie put the axles in it, clamp one still and rig something up on the other axle to turn it with a torque wrench.

yeah theres a big difference in how it works because it's on the inlet side of the cooling system.   The remote thermostats from the fwd 4age cars rely on the bypass pipe to supply hot water to the backside of the thermostat.  its the pipe with the little hose pointing up in the pic.

ae92 style are better if you're hugging it against the block because the heater return pipe faces rearwards.

like so

that cold start injector is only helpful if its freakin cold.  otherwise the engine should start up fine without it.  It only runs for 5 seconds anyway. The brown sensor is the timer for the cold start injector.

A problem can occur if the injector is leaking and constantly over fuelling which makes starting and idling difficult, especially when warm.  ryan fels had this happen to his gx61 1geu.

 Bogging only when cold could indicate a lean condition.  this could be caused by an afm adjusted wrong or sticking.  You may have an air leak between the afm and the engine like loose hose clamp or split pipe.  The temp sensor could be reading wrong. 

So yah, check those.

take the air filter off and put your hand up the afm and check that the afm flap moves smoothly.

Test the green temp sensor which is crutial for the ecu operation.

You should have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust if its 1geu..  you could check if it's running lean or rich to help diagnose the issue.  This can be done with a multimeter on the VF wire of diagnostic plug.  using the workshop manual will come in handy here.

If the engine has high k's then a compression test wouldn't hurt.