AE25

and to think he said he'd want 10G back in 2001, which back then was a heap of money... oh how i wish i wasnt a poor student!

plenty options there to mod a ke26.... decide on a plan and stick to it... do it once, do it right etc etc. costs less in the end unlike me

omg lol.. the 4age is pretty much a replicated ford BDA! belt driven A series whatever they called, port size, capacity etc soo much alike so if ever there was a jap cosworth...

TG's rule the oldschool world tho!

Fuck that's hot

4AGE's are ugly compared to that shit

Damn those carbs rule

sometimes i beg to differ! ever seen the speedtechs ugly duckling ke70.. 4agte 20v is sex

to keep it simple.. can keep std diff and driveshaft and use 20spline t50. if you think they not up to the task, then consider upgrade later.

some tips: if you have the B series 5.7" diff head then it's a simple swap to the U series 6" like in later ke20/25/26, ke30, ke70, kp61 etc. diff will be ok if you don't do anything stupid like burnouts, drift or drag launch it. wear in the axle spline or gears will most likely destroy it from shock load rather than outright power. don't run wider than 185 tyres or run a puck clutch for instance... has to be a fuse in the drivetrain somewhere.

brad (in club-k showoff page) got a best of 13.7sec 1/4 with a locked 6" diff in his kp61 starlet powered by 4ag... got to give the diff some credit and he only blew one diff head. he ran old slicks off a formula ford (which are bikkies btw).

TRD lsd for the X 5.6", B 5.7" and U 6" diff are no longer in production, so they pretty scarce and expensive.. i'd check with toyota and see if they still produce spare parts for em too heh.

mr revhead, blown5k or wde_bdy may know more on that.

whereas can buy brand new TRD and other aftermarket lsd's for the T series 6.7" hence why they a good upgrade option.

yup dats the dude, rob aitken.. orange/white rally spec te27. watched him racing it at pukekohe in 2001! the car had been setup for tarmac at that stage from its old rally guise.. he was rebuilding the 2tg then too.. i was stoked to see it in the mag.. got poster on wall

that car enthused me to build my ke25 SR to te27 spec... it'll get there one day lol albeit with much more powerful and stronger drivetrain! raarr

the ke26 has been pulled off road for panel and paint and currently parked in da shed... wont be worked on for a while yet as just moved house and got things to sort out.

list of shit done currently

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/ke26spec.htm

the plan:

parts sourced so far...

88222 version 2TG requires refresh (leaky gaskets).

ta22 type T50 gearbox with forward position shifter

ma45 6.7" disk brake diff.. to be shortened, snapped axles to be cut/weld with late type axle splines, rebuilt 3.7:1 ratio 6.7" head with st185 gt-four torsen lsd, te71 disks/calipers fitted, mod diff mounts to leaf etc with sway bar added

ae86 vented disk/caliper swap

yet to make/do: camber plates, rca's..

done:

ae85 struts, ae92 gt shocks, te28 steering arms, king springs, lowering blocks, semisealed headlights, 2" exhaust, ke25 sr woodgrain tacho dash + much more

if you want an engine conversion on the cheap the 2t or 3t is the way to go. preferably the 3t! still plenty parts around and cheap as chips.

2t's come factory in the te28 wagon etc so they built for em. will need to make engine mounts and move ke26 gearbox xmember rearwards and redrill the mounting holes wider. make 2" exhaust, mod radiator piping to l/h side, shorter accellerator cable, may need to use single type brake master cylinder to clear intake, change to hydraulic clutch, upgrade front springs to take the extra weight. tho the engine weight is negligible... i mean, are you going to be track racing it ffs?

with the T50 you'll have to cut the shifter hole further back unless you can find the very early model ta22 T50 box (pretty rare). if using a 20spline t50, find a late 70's corona driveshaft as they have decent size uni's, and get that shortened (mine cost $80 to shorten from driveshaft specialists in aucks). if using the ke26 diff, the locating ring is smaller than all the larger toyota diffs.. so watch for this if using a corona driveshaft! you may have to just use the std ke26 shaft which will bolt in to the 20spline t50... but any good thrashing tends to break the ke26 unis behind a 2t. (ask tup2t heh heh i broke his 2tg ke20 uni)

the std ke26 diff will last if you drive normally... but who does!? if you dont, then see if you can source a T series 6.7" diff from an early 70's corona as they're not much wider than the std diff and have leaf springs. so less mods required to make em fit.. T series are a 10bolt diff head instead of the std 8bolt. but theres many diffs with 10bolt so check crown wheel size)

may only need to cut and weld the ke26 mounts onto it.. i think these are rt80 and earlier model corona. compared to say te71 or ae86 which you'll need to run fwd offset rims coz diff is too wide (ghey). or spend big $$$ to get the diff shortened. if you use the larger corona drums then may have to look into upgrading the front brakes or install adjustable brake bias valve. (or can swap ke26 drums on new diff depending which one it is).

yada ya theres always more than just dropping an engine in!

once thats all sorted theres plenty potential to upgrade the T engine.

have a good browse throught http://www.toyota3tc.com forums!

did you see the te27 in the performance car yearbook??

if you need more info on the conversion i'm pretty knowledgeable on the subject... got a ke26 myself happy to help and im putting 2tg in mine too... just need time to get stuck into it

cool car and unique engine choice

yep 3tgte manual is in japanese.. toyota head office in palmy have one but it costs to get a page sent to your local toyota. if you need to know anything about the engine im pretty sure i can assist.

am starting to make a page for it when i get spare time

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/3tgte.htm

some torque specs here

http://www.hyautomotive.co.nz/ke70/3tgte/

lots more info here

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/vehicles/MyCarina.html

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html

i was referring to the 0-1v oxy sensor as a narrow band (whether or not thats the correct name i dunno). but all the 80's toyota's that i've checked run the 1v output type oxy sensor.. ie 4age 2tgeu 3tgte.

there are different bolt patterns so no they're not generic in size.

sounds like you paying $$ for this lm1 lc1 system.. whereas surely a programmable ecu will be able to read a wideband and give you a reading off the laptop screen for tuning purposes? my mate does this with a narrow band just driving round with someone sitting in passenger seat adjusting the map inputs at certain load points. it would be quicker with a data logger for sure but when you dont have $$ to throw around hmmm

hmm me gonna have to investigate this wideband gadget

once investigated buying a new O2 sensor for my old 2tgeu and best price was from partmaster for $100ea.

i'd prefer an air/fuel gauge but theres too many thieving scum in this world

post whoring...

a te71 without rust?? only in our dreams

that B pillar looks like a bit of a mission due to the bends and corners involved.. you'd have to make it out of a few bits bent up to shape or better still.. find a liftback wreck and cut that part out to weld in. most important is that you get rid of ALL the rust on the metal before its painted or welded. iron's corroded by oxygen and water is a super highway for oxygen... rust soaks up water and if you don't completely get rid of it you're gauranteed to get it bubbling up again.

the other parts are flat and wont take much to cut and patch by someone with experience.

imo cut all rust out and do it properly before spending on the drivetrain.

i'd also suggest to check the inner panels for signs of leakage.. pull off the door and side trims and see if theres water streaks down the inside of the panels.. if yes then get the leaks sorted as it'lll rot out the sills.. same for the boot lip and tail lights. one of the most important places to keep rust free is below the windscreen under the wiper panel. any holes there will cause havoc! front tow hook is another problem area as water sits in the chassis rails and eats from inside out.

but anyways, your not alone when it comes to cutting rust out of 70's the driving pleasure i get from mine is worth it i cant offer to help tho as i have too much on my plate already.

just to give ya an idea... saved from the dead!

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70newlr.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr1.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr2.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustrrqrtr.jpg

an O2 sensor puts out a voltage when it's hot and theres oxygen present which ranges from 0-1v. im not sure if theres any other variations to this, not sure the difference of 'wide band' etc so there probably is.

there are heated O2 sensors that are better as they get hot more quickly when engines started. these usually have 3 or four wires instead of one.

on factory ecu the O2 sensor is often used in a 'closed loop' mode which constantly adjusts the air/fuel mix when cruising to get optimum efficiency/economy/emissions whatever. late model cars can use it for checking emissions.. like having one each side of the catalytic converter to see if its working.

on after market systems the 02 sensor is used to tune the programmable air/fuel map. either by a self tune where the ecu automatically tries to get optimum air/fuel and saves it into the map... or to tune it manually with a hand controller or laptop by checking the air/fuel mix via the oxy sensor. alot of aftermarket ecu's nowadays tune by a laptop and will have an air/fuel mixture display on the screen. if not then an air/fuel gauge or meter is handy and more readable then trying to do it off a voltmeter hooked up to the oxy sensor lol. can tune a carb this way too.. obviously by driving the car or having it on a rolling road then checking to see if it's running rich or lean and adjusting the jets to suit.

you dont 'have' to run an O2 sensor on aftermarket ecu.. but you'll have to tune it by some other means like on a dyno with the exhaust probe up the pipe or borrow the exhaust emissions tester and go for a drive (these are more accurate than an oxy sensor.

for best performance you get it tuned by a professional on a dyno. but it pays to try get it close to perfect by self tune (if you know what you're doing that is).

im using a jaycar 'diy' $20 a/f meter. i has a row of led's that show a/f mixture. is a bit of fiddling round with the soldering iron and wiring but works well and connects to oem O2 sensor. it has a calibration screw to adjust for gain.. probly not a good option for tuning purposes but is great for daily driving and fault finding. ie thats how i found my tps wasn't clicking into idle mode as the ecu was still constantly adjusting mixture as if it was in closed loop mode at idle.

a weak clutch type lsd can often be checked by having both wheels jacked up and free. turn one wheel lightly and watch if the other one tries to spin the same way or opposite way.. often a weak clutch lsd starts to spin same way but then switches to opposite way. an open diff will immediately try spin in opposite direction. this obviously wont work if your drums are a bit tight! if the wheels keep spinning same way (gearbox in neutral).. chuck it in 1st gear and try again and see how hard it is to spin one wheel before the clutch pack breaks friction and other wheel spins opposite direction. if your clutch type lsd is any good you wont be able to break friction by spinning an axle flange by hand with it in gear or driveshaft clamped to stop it spinning.

well it's about time! i think its a great idea and gives reason to attend. i must admit i stopped going as late model cars with flashy paint and body kits werent my thing but this one will be interesting!

stop ya bitchin

theres an ae86 diff on trademe $400 reserve but a couple of the mounts cut off

what kinda price you looking at buying a te71 diff for?

yeah lockers are cunty on the street doing slow turns and u-turns etc. ive always had one in my ke70 from day dot.. (last 3 years) 6" diff... upgrade to 6.7" then upgrade to 7.5" heh. just bougt 2way kaaz lsd for it now

you realise those manuals are for toyota 6.7", 7.5" and 8" lsd. i doubt ford lsd would have identical diff.

as a source for toyota lsd's... altezza have a 7.5" torsen lsd factory... GT-FOUR celica's have a 6.7" torsen in the rear.. ma61/ta63/ra63/aa63 GT spec toys have an optional 7.5" irs clutch lsd which can be converted to live axle. some cr30 townace/masterace have live axle 7.5" lsd but pretty rare to find. ga70/ma70/jza70 etc supra have 8" irs optional lsd. hilux have 8" live axle lsd yada yada.

i'll see if i can get my scanner hooked up.. havent used it in a year

who's turning up the bearing carrier? cant exactly laser cut that heh

i dont see why a bias valve from a fwd toyota with 9" disks all round wouldnt work on your te71?

remember that fitting non oem struts often affects other parts of the steering and braking.

i suggest you thoroughly research the swap if not usuing ke20/ke25/ke26 struts.

this guide may help in finding suitable swaps

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/struts.html

just remember the length quoted were mostly measured with a ruler so not entirely accurate. steering arm bolt pattern should be though.

to start with, could try kp starlet strut including the steering arms. the whole shebang should bolt in. steering arms same length too.

all later corollas have a bigger ball joint...

so can shim the ke25 ball joint with 1mm shim (a bit dodge) or find custom ball joints then use ke30/ke70/ae85/ae86 etc struts/steering arms and change the top hat that bolts to the strut tower to kp starlet or ke2 top hat so it bolts in. later model corolla springs likely to be stiffer/taller so need to sort out a lowering spring to suit. also later corolla will have longer steering arms so will increase the turning circle and slow the turning response. camber is often made increasingly positive (not helpful) and preferably dont use an arm longer than 125mm eye-to-eye as the std ke25 one is only 110mm. i could not to a u-turn on a 2 lane road when i had 138mm arms

i believe s1-s3 rx7 strut bolts to ke2 steering arm.. s1 & s2 have 4x110 studs like the 25 but s3 have 4x114.3 like the later corollas and starlet. then need to sort out springs and top hat etc. not know much about that swap but could ask logan (las52).

remember that if you use a strut with larger brakes, it will affect the brake bias so try keep it to an 8" disk and all should be groovy.

as an example of the affects of strut conversion.. i've put ae85 struts in my ke26... ie 9" disk. used 115mm ae86 p/s steering arms, ae92GT shocks spaced up which is 2" shorter stroke, king springs 'lows', have shimmed the ball joints for now but have te28 steering arms on the way which bolt the ae85 struts in and are identical in length!! BUT! the side affects i have found is 1.5' positive camber after lowering (so would be worse and std height). i have front bias braking.. not so noticeable in the dry but dangerous in the wet and tricky when sideways. to counter these i'm making camber plates and i used the ae85 struts with the intention of upgrading my diff to a shortened ma45 with te71 disk brake which when fitted with te71 bias valve will be good again.

think safe! suspension modifications legally require lvv certification

oh and doing burnouts/drift on a viscous lsd can cook the oil and they dont work no more

locker best for drag/burnout

mechanical (clutch) best for drift/race

torsen or viscous good for street/race or whatever

clutches do wear out eventually so need maintenance... viscous need oil changes... torsen lsd dont wear out.

wouldnt want to use a torsen with overly large tyres as the small helical gears would cop a beating

quick but not so accurate way to check diff ratio.. jack one wheel off ground but other one must stay still (wont work if you have locker/strong clutch type lsd), gearbox in neutral, mark drum/disk against backing plate and diff pinion flange against diff housing... turn driveshaft and count how many turns to do exactly TWO turns of the disk/drum. the amount of driveshaft turns is your diff ratio... no calculations required.

oem toyota clutch lsd use various thickness clutch plates to add up to the correct thickness. i have 'photocopied' toyota manuals for T, F and G series toyota lsd's if anyone is seriously interested in doing a diy rebuild.. will need to scan it onto comp etc so no rush to do it.

i once took an 8" lsd to steelie which he was going to put in a stronger spring for more lsd action. dunno if he did it but when i went back to pick it up he didnt realise i intended it for tarmac/drift and he'd set torque to suit gravel.. took a week to do it.. took 2 months to redo it. after about the 5th visit.. it took him 10mins to strip it, shim it and set gear meshing etc. hes a good guy and very helpfull but slow turnover. doesnt help when he was involved in car accident

eugene imports T3 stuff and hes in auckland

http://www.86factory.com/T3Cbrpltsi.htm

but its likely cheaper dealing direct