esky boi

Yea the Escort one wont work becuase the cortina flywheel sits closer (or is it further?.. lol doesnt matter, its different anyway) away from the motor. There shouldnt be any reason why the Cortina one wont work.. You shure its wired up properly? It should have the solenoid attatched to the starter motor right? So for a start you wont be needing the original esky one which sits on the inner guard.. just wire the battery etc directly to the solenoid on the starter motor. Oh yea, only one of the small wires that goes to the oringinal esky solenoid is needed for the cortina one... the black one with the red stripe I think it is... Thats how I did it anyway, using the 5spd sierra box tho. But shouldnt make a difference what box is used..

The Corty will be 4x108. Pretty sure the Zephyr should be the same. To be completely sure, just swap a wheel with the cortina and see if it fits....

$220? wherabouts was that? Snells Springs in Penrose do them for $120

Oh dam, this brings back nightmares haha. Il tell you now that its pretty much impossible to do on your own.. A mate and I tried many different ways (had to remove & refit it twice because I used the wrong clutch release bearing first time round ) the best seemed to be to use two trolley jacks, one at the rear of the box and one at the front, on the bellhousing. Jack up each end as needed, and dont let go of the box until its well into the transmission tunnel.. lets just say it doesnt balance very well haha... The engine will need to tilt as far back as it can possibly go.. for the very tight squeeze it is in the original 4sp manual tunnel.. but yours was an auto aye? so youl have more room to play round with anyway. By far the hardest bit was getting the input shaft into the clutch plate.. which again was made alot harder by having the smaller manual tunnel.. So yea, this is all presuming that you're doing it on the floor by the way...

Yea man, looking good.. only gonna drop the front an inch tho? I say 2 inches and it'll be sweeet... or are there going to be issues with the springs not being captive etc. ?

Ah yep there we go, should have read back through there abit more thoroughly haha. So external wastegates are just there for wank factor then if they arent needed? (ie. standard turbo, standard boost) And what about screamer pipes?

So what are the advantages of having an external wastegate over an internal? They both do pretty much the same thing dont they? Oh yea and what exactly does a screamer pipe do?

Yup here it is.. goes into lots of detail lol http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewfo ... &start=650

I remember someone (tea bag?) making a big topic about this once on here I think. Hold up...

Hmm, could be the fuel pump.. I know if the diaphragm in the Pinto ones fail then petrol leaks into the crankcase.. Xflow ones have the little arm operated by the camshaft, so yea maybe the pump is stuffed and petrol is running down the arm onto the cam lobe and washing all the oil off? Dont know how that would make such a loud noise, but its something to think about I guess...

mm, same with Pinto's

hmm, could be the starter motor then aye... Oh wait... does the pitch of the noise vary with the engine rpm, or does it stay constant all the time?

If the starter motor wasnt disengaging it would make more of a grinding noise wouldnt it? could be a vacuum leak somewhere, re-check the tightness of everything.. all the vacuum hoses and the intake manifold, probably just the gaskets seating after the initial start up and all..

Interesting.. is that only for hydraulic lifters or?

Nah you shouldnt have any problems with it bro, pretty sure Motorcraft is made by Ford anyway?.. someone correct me if im wrong...

Dam thats alot of advance.. how high is your comp ratio again?

Heres another one from a distance...

Yea man, what escort_boy said.. grab one of another Escort, just undo the four screws and it'll come straight out. They're actually abit of a bitch to get out of the doorframe, you'll see what I mean, nothing abit of extra force cant fix...

Yea cos autos dont have flywheels .. think they're called flexplates.. Umm Just had a look at my old 1300 crankshaft and It doesnt have that lip thing on it at all aye... You could maybe just grind it off?

oh mean haha, so theres not too much custom work involved.. might get me some chonda seats then

Could be something more to do with the engine bro.. is the ignition timing and the carb settings all in order? just give it a real good check over and all.. has the temperature been high all the time, or did it just happen recently? Have you had it tuned yet?

Bro those seats look mean.. what sort of modding was involved in making them fit?

I got a new headgasket and chucked it on last weekend.. seems to have sorted it out, no signs of leaks or water being used, and power is back to normal Still need to get the hole in the transmission tunnel welded up, and put the carpet back in and then I can go for the cert ... when I get money haha.

Hmm sounds weird.. did you do the wiring, or someone else? cos for the 2 litre conversion all you really have to do is lengthen the alternator wires, and the dizzy one (off the top of my head). Strange that its mucking up the headlights.. But yea, the red lightning bolt type light on the dash is a warning light for the alternator.. (its a lightning bolt thing on earlier mk2's and its a battery symbol on the later mk2's if I remember rightly), it'll light up when you switch the ignition on and then go out once the motor starts running.

Make sure you have a radiator cap with the right pressure rating bro, mine used to have that problem.. Oh yea if it is right but coolant still comes out, then theres probably a little bit too much in the radiator. It'll emtpy out as much as it needs and then its sweet.