esky boi

Howzit people..been a while since ive been around here

Considering doing the vr4 into ex lancer thing so ive started doing my research, just need to confirm a few things..

-engine mounts

The vr4 4g63 bolts up to the standard 1200/1600 mounts correct?

-gearbox/driveshaft

I understand the sigma box will bolt straight up to the vr4 engine+ex chassis? and the L200 box can also be used in combination with the sigma x-member? what will I need to use in the way of a driveshaft??

And are these boxes both cable clutch? are there any hydraulic pedal boxes that will bolt up with little/no mods in the interests of converting to hydro?

-clutch/flywheel

I need a rwd 4g63 combo right? is this because the vr4 flywheel is too big to fit inside the sigma/L200 bellhousing?

Whats the difference in clutch sizes between this and the vr?

And if I were to convert to hydro, what release arm/ bearing combo could be used..a fwd setup?

-diff/brakes

Sigma turbo LSD bolts up? are there any disc brake setups that will bolt up to the standard lancer diff? and will vr4/similar callipers bolt up by any chance?

Think thats all I need to know for now..I know lots of you cunts on here have done this conversion and should be full of helpful info, so fire away, in the meantime I'll be trawling through the project threads

I'll be there sunday I think.. probably in a Dodge Charger If I see any of you I'll come see whats happning

Mean. I've seen the blue one around too.. those are the wheels off it on the white one aye?

Heard it got crashed into the Mairangi bay dairy or something??

Or use a single peice shaft from an auto escort, goes straight in.

I could be keen to come along and catch up with some people.. not sure yet though. Depends how many people will be there too haha.

I removed the balance shafts on my 63, its pretty simple. It pulls hard all the way to redline, but you can feel a slight vibration at about 3500 rpm when the engine isn't under load..only really noticeable from the drivers seat though.

Dont know what its like compared to an engine with the shafts still in it, but cant hurt to remove them I spose.

Looking tidy as bro, now just have to sort the engine out..

do you have the mounts on the right side?? one is slightly longer than the other I think

Yea check that.. But also, the x-member is tapered where the mounts bolt up to it, unbolt the mounts and move them down, that should bring them closer to the block.

Ah I see, cheers for that. Yea thatd be great if you could send me that manual aye..

Fuel, whats the difference between the evo ZR and VR-4's compared to the normal ones? Engine wise is it just the injectors/turbo, or is there more?

And what about the exterior, apart from the bonnet?

Don't know a whole heap about Mitsi's.. yet

Oh and would you have any workshop manuals? need to get hold of one before I strip the motor..

fuel wrote:

Nice.. I know the previous owner. Not many VR-4 Evolutions around (evo 0/zero is only a nickname).

Oh really? haha random.. how did it go for him, apparently he rebuilt the engine aye? wouldn't mind finding out abit more of its history.

Sweet, could be keen for some parts, theres a couple of bits missing in the interior, I'll let you know.

RScort, nah I just sold the Falcon aye, was a real good car. Heaps better than the average EB haha

Cheers for the comments guys, yea unsure on the wheels aye.. they kinda suit the car though I reckon.

And yea don't really care about petrol too much haha.

Hmm, standard internals would probably cope with 20psi, don't know how long for though, may aswell forge it to be on the safe side cause it'll most likely be a daily.

Paid 4500 for it.. could've picked up a normal vr or zr4 with a reasonable motor for that but its an evo zero so yea. Mate paid 6g for it last year..

Its a genuine evo '0'. Has reconditioned head and turbo, with bigger intake housing and impeller. It ran low to mid 13's with the old turbo on 16psi.

The bottom end is rooted so needs a reco, but should be able to reliably run 20psi with the new turbo and rebuilt bottom end, forged of course.

Should be good for high 12's when i've finished with it

Not oldschool but it'll do for now haha..

Nah man, would've if I had abit more gas haha. Just headed back up our way not long after you guys left aye.

Hmm... where was everyone??

I'll be there, probably around 10 ish..

this saturday?- 27th?

Yep, everyone better turn up!

Come along to this one on sat.. what else would you be doing?

Yea im in, seeing as im in town most sat's anyway.. The Falcon should be on the road by then too

Same.. bet this is gona turn into another dead cruize thread if some dates aren't set tho haha.

Im keen for whenever..

^^hardly a feature

But it runs 10's.. not like its a 1300 crapomatic painted matt black haha

Big Fords/Holdens etc usually seem to be real mens cars.

Then you get the pussy mens cars with less than 6 cylinders, but cost more than 60 odd grand etc, often convertables..

It'll fit no worries, if anything the sump will be too close to the x-member. To fix that you need to space the engine mounts out by 5mm or so (when using the round mounts). Thats what I had to do anyway, may have just been the way my sump was modded though..

Hmm if the timing is in order and its running on 98 then the only reason the plugs will really be overheating is becuase its running lean, have a play with the mixture and see how it goes.

How much advance are you running?

Standard plugs for the pinto's are AP6F (NGK) or something like that, the next coolest grade of plug is AP7F I think.. Id give that a try.

retep130: 8mm silicone leads will be all good, and maybe some colder plugs.. BTW apparently Champion plugs are crap, not sure how true that is, but yea..

Can't quite remember how much I paid aye, might have been around $10-$15 I think..