jinx

You can cut a section from the std escort sump and fit it into the 2L one. Makes a much tidier and almost std looking conversion.

A point to note if using space invader inside cars is that it will trap moisture in panels/corners and promote rust.

I'd seriously think twice before using it but if you do try putting a plastic bag into the area you want done and fill the bag. It'll expand with the foam and give less problems.

Getting a roll of foam window draught sealer can be a good trick too. Run strips of it under door handle rods and the edges of trim panels and it'll get rid of most rattles.

ahhhhrrrrrrggggghhhhh

put that away....

my eyes, my eyes....

Escort should then be 50mm thick.

Will confirm shortly.

mk3,4,5 Cortina Pinto 1600/2000cc engines is what he's after.

The round rubber engine isolator that goes on the mounts.

Jerm

capri suspension is better than escort - if for nothing else than the spring seats are 1" lower... You also get a little more camber. Pretty much the same otherwise.

Bistro

good point - these days a little tweak on a boost controller will do considerably more than the change from 1300cc to 1600cc... even 1300cc to 2000cc really...

Get the front struts and diff froma Mk2 1600 sport as the diff is alot stroger and can handle the power.

Not true. The english escort diffs we have here are all the same. The only difference is the ratios, the axles are no different and there is no strength difference in the centres. Even the anglias use the same diff centre - the 4.444:1 from these is commonly used in escort rally cars with no real problems.

Likely to be a weber 32/36. Will probably have 26 and 28 stamped on the outside of the two throats. Model number I believe is typically stamped on a small tag attached to one of the float bowl screws and will probably list it as a dgav or something.

The two throats open sequentially and there is normally an auto choke mounted on the side (two small water hoses passing out of an odd looking housing on the engine side by memory...).

They seem to be selling on trademe for $40-$80 depending on condition and who wants to blow the most money on the day...!

so is any cam gear or oil pump - ready to file up a new one of these are you?

Buying them gives you (generally) a better product, designed to do the job, and with the correct attachment parts. Modification of the locating holes/pins is quite common as there are so many different types out there that they only make a small number and leave it to the shop or buyer to modify to fit.

Try pricing up new diff U-bolts and you'll soon see that most of these kits are pretty cost effective.

check your e-mail.

very cool paint job - shame about the panel fitment though.

Not running a filter isn't particularly bright.

The car will run quicker if you remove the airfilter as it's probably running leaner. Holes in pistons are not cool...

If it's a car you care about you'll also be introducing dust and grit into the engine which will have a sandblasting effect (or worse if you get gravel into it!).

Most don't really improve the performance much, some do quite the opposite!

They're better in the fact that you can clean them rather than throw it away and buy a new one every time you need to change it.

What about using a stainless steel flask from the warehouse with your std pump mounted on the side (hidden as far around as possible).

Would be much thinner and classier than the original set-up.

I've got a pair of modified bmw discs i'll sell for cost if anyone wants them for an escort/capri. fits under std wheels.

peugeot discs can also be a good mod - 283mm though - 15" wheels or more.

rt - they're the same as simon's ones.

perhaps you could increase the cost of the sales to include a 10% margin to cover site expenses...?

I've had both mk1 and mk2 escort wagons - if you're really having trouble with this check the leaf spring width. Mk1 esscorts have abour 45mm wide springs and mk2 have 60 (or something like that).

The mk2 wagon is the same as the mk1 except for the mk2 front end. You're also more likely to find it has rear seatbelts and the later style interior door handles.

neither - every sticker i've ever had has gone to mates or the bin...

Have a serious think about using the sierra trans tunnel as well. It would greatly increase the amount of space around the box and it'd actually be possible to change a clutch without first removing the engine...

diff does not fit - sierra's are irs. I have seen it done once and it was extremely intensive, not pretty and not advisable...

Pretty much just the engine and gearbox are all you can get from the sierra. Longer throttle cable, speedo and clutch cable from a 2L cortina will deal to the rest. Two piece auto driveshaft from an escort will fit stright up to the sierra box. If wanting a bigger radiator use a cortina one as well - still has the same mounting pattern and fits stright in.

saw it - loved it - great car!

the drums are a good upgrade - they're the same as sport and ghia ones as well. A really easy bolt on upgrade...

axles? Not really much in it - most of the escort diffs we got here have the same internals...

To get new ones for my 2L conversion for the escort I went into a local trucking parts supplier and picked up a couple off the shelf. Just a basic round mount (available in different heights) with the metal plates bonded to either side with the studs welded to the plates.

All the dimensions are the same as my old ones.

Warning to those using polyeurethane or similar bushes for engine mounts - by current nz law you should have all mounts for engine and g/box made of the same material. It'll probably only get picked up by an overzealous wof check or your certifier (not that most here bother with that anyway...).

Palmside is at 287 Hoon Hay Road, Christchurch, New Zealand.

Phone: (64 3) 338 9151

Fax: (64 3) 338 9050

http://www.palmside.co.nz/

doesn't the cam come out the back of the head...?

i thought you had to pull the head off (or engine out) to do this.