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two_days_late

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Posts posted by two_days_late

  1. I would have spent well over that on my motor I'm building up, you can see a lot of whats been done in my old build thread here:

    //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=10637

    With more updates to follow in new one here:

    //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=29206

    On my cam spec sheet it says this:

    - Do not allow engine to run under 2000rpm for the first hour.

    - When heavy valve springs are fitted we recommend installing soft springs for the break in period.

    - DO NOT IDLE. Slow Idle speeds or continued starter cranking will result in sever Lobe and Follower wear.

    Also not looking forward to running in my engine :lol:

  2. Yea its worth trying to figure out, just waiting for mine to show up now.

    I'd like to dyno it yea. Will be interesting to see what kinda power it actually does put out compared with the claims you hear about with similar mods. I'll happy if its over 130hp but as long as it goes along nicely then that's the main thing.

  3. So finally progress is happening again!

    Went back up to Gisborne for the rally last weekend and picked my car up from Dannevirke on the way back through.

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    The panel work is largely finished now, the whole thing has been undersealed as well, including inside the boot. There is a little bit of tidying up to do so I'll get some more underseal and do that when I get around to it. I also haven't done any of the black trim (mirrors/handles/bumpers/window trim) or the rubbers yet. Will do a full rubber kit and black paint at the same time, but for now the focus is getting it moving under its own power.

    First step was to order some new bits and get some bits machined, so I have ordered:

    - 2x Reconditioned DCOE Webers with linkages and filters, plus an electric fuel pump all jetted and choked etc for my engine from Weber Specialists in Auckland.

    - Ashely Extractors from Palmside as it was going to cost me over $200 to get the cobys coated and then they would still just be cobys.

    - Honda pre-engaged starter motor with adapter plate for the Sierra box from Palmside.

    - 2x Kelpro urethane engine mounts.

    - Dropped the gearbox at Cemeck Engineering in Petone to get shortened so I can keep my shifter hole.

    - Also dropped the flywheel at Cemeck to get some grooves cut in the teeth to suit the new starter motor.

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    While I'm waiting for all these bits I've been getting the motor in a position where its ready to drop in the car. I've pulled the cross-member out and plan on bolting the engine and gearbox all together on the floor/trolley and the just lifting up the car and dropping it down on top of it. This means I am far less likely to scratch up my new paint dropping in an engine, and I can muck around with the new starter/clutch/engine backplate on the garage floor where I can see and get to everything easily.

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    Also needed to modify the engine mount brackets to suit the new style mounts. This involved cutting off the bonded rubber from the mounts (an old one on the left), then drilling a hole in the bracket followed by a spot of paint. Just like new.

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    Decided it was also a good time to fit the new front pulley kit... and neither of the pulleys fitted.... They were both really close though so just filed back the water pump a tad and now it is snug on there. For the crank pulley I got out the Dremel with a sanding bit and then a polishing bit until I could get it on the crank. Also fitting perfectly now.

    VzgO3.jpg

    That's all for now... hopefully some new bits show up in the next week or so.

    • Like 2
  4. Ah sweet good to know. I've already got my box/clutch/flywheel and am planning on doing this mod to it:

    http://www.british-cars.net/mg-midget-sprite-technical-bbs/5-speed-type-9-gearbox-gear-lever-position-200810110843355749.htm

    97_200810110843355749_20958654304047_1223721575.jpg

    Will post pics and info if it works. Cheers

    EDIT: This mod is worth looking at if you want to change shifter position as well.

    http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/download/file.php?id=19578&sid=fc76060225b9ce90d980e9d8e883952b

  5. It's a sport bro. Also take a look at your VIN plate, if the engine says L3 then it's the top spec'd engine from factory. Got some info on this site here:

    http://www.rsownersclub.co.uk/rsocbb/showthread.php?p=2168145

    And to quote:

    For example, a 1600 sport (x-flow engine) has L3 as it's engine code L being 1600 and 3 meaning a GT version.

    Here's the entire Escort Mk2 engine code breakdown :

    G = 1100

    J = 1300

    L =1600

    N = 2000

    T = 950 (unusual continental poverty spec Escorts were sold as 950's )

    Kent engine :

    1 = Low compression

    2 = High compression

    3 = increased performance (GT version)

    Pinto : E

  6. Doesn't have a cambelt :D But yea its a different style drive kit for the front belt (Crankshaft, Alternator, Waterpump), looks similar to gilmers and should make it look a lot nicer. Have also got an electric fan that will be tucked up under the radiator shroud so you won't really see it but means I can ditch the old viscous fan.

    http://www.burtonpower.com/water-pump-alternator-drive-kit-15mm-alt-shaft-x-flow-fp225dk.html

    They do a kit for the pinto as well.

  7. Parts from Burton

    So after well over a month of waiting for my order its finally here. You guys were right, they are really slack at following through but after a few phone calls and emails it finally got shipped off. Was held up mucking around with customs etc for about a week in NZ but that's another story.

    Few good bits in here, mainly the Alloy radiator, new single piece drive-shaft for the Sierra box, silicone hose kit, and front drive kit. Plus a bunch of gaskets, side entry dizzy cap, new performance leads, bolts and studs, thermostat, fuel pump blanking plate, engine back-plate, oil cap, electric radiator fan, and a new alternator (from TradeMe) that I can swap my polished housing into.

    Good times!

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    • Like 2
  8. Mine had these 16's on it when i first got it and they look silly

    Eyczoh.jpg

    I now have these 15's and its taken a lot of work to get them looking good, and i'm still not quite there yet

    Xoowu.jpg

    The 16s are for sale though if you are that way inclined :D

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