two_days_late
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Posts posted by two_days_late
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Hey guys,
Have just started working on the escort again. It was undersealed a good year or so ago and a good portion of it still isn't dry. Is there a trick to making it go off quicker? It's horrible tar type shit and if I knew it was going to be like this I never would have gotten it put on. The inside of my boot has also been done with it, and it would be nice to remove it from there... but I have a feeling removing it will be near on impossible. I'm going to need to remove some of it as its just been slapped over everything under the car (handbrake mechanism, brake line mounts etc).
Has anyone else dealt with this stuff and have any ideas? 12 months and still not gone off seems strange to me?
Cheers
Matt
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I ended up getting 225/50s and 205/50s on my 8" rims. They are a Khumo and look shit, should have waited for some Toyos.
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I just drilled a hole in a golf ball... just use a drill bit slightly smaller than the gear stick. Works mint.
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Unfortunately not man. Realised I wasn't gonna get it on the road for summer due to the amount of stuff left so haven't touched it for a couple of weeks. Good news is that cross-member all lines up sweet, just need to get a new rubber for it from Repco. The existing rubber is moulded, but I'm assuming you can just cut that off and the new one will bolt on somehow. Haven't looked into it too closely. Been keeping an eye on your build and am very envious though, can't wait to get it on the track! Looks like yours is holding its own out there.
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PM'd
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I've brushed on all the hammerite on my suspensions parts and gearbox etc. It dries smooth.
Not the best pics but might give you some idea.
Cheers
Matt
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Cheers guys. That would be cool Shane, is your gearbox mount an escort or sierra one? The mounts on the floor of my car at the moment have already been messed with so I'm not sure which mount will be best to start with. How much do you want for your one? Cheers
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Productive night tonight.
Engine Backplate
Cut a piece out of the engine backplate so it slots in nicely with the starter motor adapter plate.
Clutch and Flywheel
Flywheel and clutch torqued and loctite'd. All very straight forward mating it up and aligning the clutch.
Engine and Box
Engine and box bolted together ready to go in.
Engine In
Jacked the car right up and just slid the whole drive train under the car, also pretty straight forward. Just need to sort out my gearbox crossmember and straighten up the engine now. Pretty sure all the paint will fall off as soon as it started but ah well.
Cheers
Matt
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Although the rules are the same everywhere, I took a car to 3 different places and got pulled up on different small things in each place.
Cannon Point Motors in Upper Hutt are usually really good, for example he aligned my headlights for me, there were a few rust spots and he just asked me to give it a quick grind back with a screwdriver to prove it wasn't major, then gave me some rust kill.
As opposed to VTNZ who made me remove my spotlights that had tape over them, and said just to put them back in after the WOF. Dickheads.
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Gearbox
Gearbox is back from the Cemick Engineering in Petone where Carl shortened it down. I needed it to be 82ml shorter and he managed to get it to 75ml. Should be plenty though and means I can use the standard gear level hole, and have the shifter in the nice factory position. Also means I can keep the standard centre console.
Ended up costing $350 but that included swapping the ring gear over on my flywheel and then machining let-ins on the teeth for my new starter as well.
Have also replaced the front and rear oil seals, oil, gaskets, and bellhousing bolts .
A bit of paint and it's looking all good
Cheers
Matt
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Just goto http://www.imgur.com and upload them, then it will give you the links.
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I grabbed one of these
http://www.burtonpower.com/airtec-alloy-radiator-escort-mk1-mk2-straight-top-outlet-atrad1-str.html
Probably not cost effective unless you are puttin in a big order though.
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There is definitely a 4 speed box the same length as the type 9
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Rubbers are apparently for a MK2 Escort. Ah well I'll just get some shorter ones I think.
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Cross-member is miles away from the sump...
Yea looks like i need to get some shorter mounts. Dammit.
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Bolted up the engine to the cross-member on the floor of the workshop. The mounts are sitting right at the very top of the cross-member, they are in and bolted up tight but it just doesn't look right to me. My question is, is this safe, and is it going to mess with the angles of my drive-train? I'm assuming its not right.
With the old ones the rubber is about 1cm shorter than the new ones. There was a steel spacer on the side of the block between the mount so I just assumed that leaving this out would mean the new ones fit in right. Should I just drill some new holes in the mount bracket further to the top?
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New Bolts!
Have got new bolts for nearly the whole engine, plus most of the front suspension/steering including some lowering blocks for the gearbox cross-member. This should tidy things up heaps.
I have 3 extra complete sets of all the engine bolts shown in the first photo for sale (thought i might as well import a few sets). PM me if you are interested.
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Hmm how about $180 for the brand new ones, or $50 for the old ones. Pretty sure there are no holes or anything in the second hand ones, but they are definitely in a used condition. I'll have to have a think about the struts. Cheers
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Small update: Box and flywheel are still at the machine shop.
Small bit of info in case anyone else gets caught out... It turns out that near the end of the production run Ford changed from a 110 tooth flywheel to a 135 tooth flywheel. Mine happened to be a 135 tooth flywheel, and the Palmside starter motor kits are toothed for the 110 tooth flywheel (The 135 tooth ones are quite uncommon... apparently). This means I had to find an older flywheel to get the ring gear swapped over from since my flywheel had already been re-drilled and doweled for the sierra clutch, and had also been lightened. On the plus side, it means I have a newish engine. So yea, if you are going to buy a pre-engaged starter kit from Palmside, make sure you have the 110 tooth flywheel first
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Where abouts are you based bro? I have a brand new set of coby's and a used set of coby's for sale if you are interested in either (Have brought some ashleys instead). Will also be selling my front struts which have virtually new shocks and low king springs in them (swapping to coil overs).
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Surely Repco will still sell these?
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I have engine bay envy
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Assume its the one for the small hose that screws into the top of the pump?
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I just got some Urathane ones from BNT for the Escort. Was about $120 for both.
They are a Kelpro item and are far more solid that the rubber factory mounts.
Here's their catalog, might find your car or something similar in there? Are the KE70 mounts similar?
If you get the part number from the catalog and search for it on this site http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/ you'll get a photo.
Cheers
Matt
underseal wont dry
in Tech Talk
Posted
Its super sticky to touch... like when I press on it lightly I get it all over me.