two_days_late

haha. told

and, as already stated that thats not a fair poll so your poll is still a complete crock. fuckin ballsack

nothin personal alfaholic, i do actually like some front wheel drive cars, was just getting at alfadog coz his poll is a complete crock

considering this thread was started by someone with a wrong wheel drive car i guess its expected to be a bit shit.

and further, people can now stop crying that theres to many escort people here when corollas are leading

when did they make mk2s... from about 75-82 right? i think that makes them pretty much 70's cars.

anyway isnt the point of this forum to bring together people that are intersted in old skool cars and help each other out with various projects. not bitch that to many people have escorts, if you dont like escorts then dont read the threads about escorts. this thread is gayer than ben lummis

theres a little plastic or rubber plug in the bottom of the spare wheel well. you can just pull it out and leave it out then water doesnt build up in there, so it prevents rust

i got that mag james, i'll bring it back after next hols. nice as eskys. 400hp each

1975 mk2 escort

- favourite car, i think its still goin somewhere

1984 KE70 wagon

- shouldnt have sold it

1980 mk2 escort

- average

1981 laser

- heap of shit

1988 VL commonwhore 3 litre

- loose

1987 corona 2litre coupe

- electric windows stoped working when it was raining

- quick but fucked

- blew the gearbox day after i sold it

1992 mazda cronos

- my nanas cars got more style. na seriously it does

currently nothing. hopefully gettin stacovs esky tho

yea bro, should have a LAN when i get back to welly

weve gota get it together or this forums gona end up like PUNKAS, for any of you that post there. we should be able to voice our own opinions as long as we respect others and people learn to take people with a pinch of salt.

NFORCA and R100, sometimes peoples views can come accross pretty strong, but you have to remember these are just one persons views, personally i have nothing against importX or anythin like that, i dont nececerily like it but i can respect that some people do.

im sure i speak for most people here when i say we apprecicate what you've done with various events and things, you've just gota understand that when you come on an oldskool forum and start talkin about imports your gona get shit, despite wether people think you deserve it or not.

we should be using this club as a tool so we can all learn more about oldskool cars, not getting fired up at each other just coz we dont agree about somethin. if someone makes a topic about music and one person says they like rap, just because i hate rap doesnt mean im not gona take what they have to say bout cars any less seriously.

lets start trying to sound less like an episode of shortland street and get it together.

well that was a great bitch,

cheers

Matt

everyones allowed their own opinion, if the guy from NZPC has half a brain he'll understand that one persons opinion is not the opinion of a whole club. if everyone agreed on how everything should be done wouldnt that be fuckin boring? i have mixed feelings about it, i think it could be good for the club havin a track day shown on tv to help maybe bring more like minded people to the forums, but at the same time i wouldnt wana see old skool cars become the lastest trend. if atropine's against this guy comin and filming the track day and has a good point why then he's got every right to be, just the same as the other guys having every right to want it done.

sweet as, i know the guy that wrote it sounds like someone off an infomercial but it works really well.

Fed up with bashing your knuckles on the dashboard of your kit car, or with knocking your elbow on the handbrake? Do you render your passenger unconscious every time you select reverse - you need a quickshift! . But hold on, are you not keen to pay 25-70 pounds for a quickshift? Why not make your own.

Materials required

3 M10 nuts (not nylocks) as spacers (7mm thick)

3 M8 x 25mm bolts

Use of a vice, or two blocks of wood/bricks

A small amount of araldite or car body filler

A quickshift for the Ford 4 and 5 speed boxes works by moving the fulcrum point of the gear lever upwards, thereby decreasing the lever advantage of the lever and therefore shortening its throw. Inevitably this means that the lever action will be heavier than standard, so be prepared to accept this. The quickshift kits that you can buy for 25-30 pounds simply adapt the standard lever, but in my opinion, they move the fulcrum too high and ruin the quality of the change, which with Ford gearboxes is usually very good. First off there is nothing intrinsically wrong with the standard gear lever unless the rubber mount is knackered. If it is, throw it away and get another lever from a scrapyard (mine cost £2).

To convert the standard gear lever you must first remove it and clean it with a degreaser such as Jizer, so that all the working surfaces are clean, any build up of grease, or other ****e must be removed. Test the motion of the gearlever when removed and cleaned through every plane to ensure that it is smooth and easy. If it is not then investigate why, it may be that the ball joint is pitted, scratched or damaged, if it is then obtain an undamaged one from a scrapyard. The way the lever is converted is to move the plastic sphere which acts as a ball joint 7mm or so further up the lever, and to space the lever attachment flange by the same amount. This should shorten the throw of the lever by about 25 percent.

To modify the lever, place the lever with the linkage downwards on the top of a vice with the linkage between the jaws and with the bottom of the plastic sphere resting on the jaws of the vice either side. The jaws of the vice need to be 20-25mm apart. Ensure that the sphere is level on the jaws (the lever will be angled as it is when the lever is in neutral). Tap down on the top of the lever smartly. This should drive the lever down through the ball joint; keep tapping until the sphere has moved by about 7mm. If you go too far, turn the lever upside down, open the jaws of the vice and place the mount flange on the jaws with the lever down between them, tap gently until the position is restored.

When this is done, using the 3 M10 nuts as spacers (and longer m8 bolts!) re-attach the lever to the gearbox mounting and try the gearchange. It may be stiff into the reverse gate or across the normal gate; this is because moving the fulcrum has also put increased tension on the rubber spring. To release this tension, simply trim about 5mm from the top of the rubber spring where it meets the retaining collar at the top of the lever ball joint.

Standard Gearlever before modification

If you have difficulty engaging gears following modification then it is likely that the distance the sphere has moved on the lever is different from the distance spaced at the flange, so check this is OK. If reverse has no distinct 'gate' then it is likely that the spacing between the flanges is not enough, or the sphere has been pushed too far up the lever. If on the other hand reverse is very difficult to engage even after trimming the spring then either the spacing is too great or the sphere has not been pushed up the lever enough. If the lever action is still too long, the sphere may be moved further up the lever provided that the amount moved matches the thickness of the spacers used between the flange on the gearbox and the flange on the lever.

When you are happy with the gearchange, use Araldite or similar to fill the gap in the underside of the lever between the sphere and the lever, ensure that the surfaces are clean before applying. When the lever is perfect, lubricate the metal part of the linkage with moly grease, and the plastic ball joint with a small dab of grease or EP90 gearbox oil, make sure it is properly lubricated, including under the plastic shield below the rubber spring.

Gearlever After Modification

If experience of using the gearchange shows that it still has too much movement or not enough then the ball joint and spacing can be varied too suit.

Approximate cost - less than 1 pound.[/img]

hey, i'll go try dig out those plans now, i found them on the net so i know there around somewhere. as RT said, it probably will be better to make a new plate, but if you cant be botherd muckin round then this works sweet.

cheers

Matt

found it easier just to raise the original plate

bro, persuming that youve got the normal sierra 5 speed its easy as to make a quick shift for, i'll find the plans when im home then send them too you. all you need is 3 nuts and 3 bolts plus some silicon to seal it up.

you take off the plate where the stick goes into, theres 3 bolts, think you'll need a star drive to get them off,then you put some nuts underneath it to raise the plate up and bolt it back together with some longer bolts then just jam silicone around the gap so shit doesnt get into it.

touche

james is stoned. hes lying

just buy my seats bro, already got the escort rails sorted

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1902

hahaha thats fucking cool! mad max styles

haha, i only checked mazda coz i thought i could vote twice tho. maybe ya should start a new poll bro?

hey atropine, you goin to vic? im off there in 10 days too. where you stayin bro

apparently if you keep blowin exaust gaskets and getting leaks and shit where it bolts to the head theres a quick way to fix it. if you bolt up the extractors tight and then run a blowtorch or something like that over the extractors pipes it lets them move slightly and takes a whole lot of pressure off wheres its bolted to the head. it works

because it says what make of car do you drive not what make of car is in bits in your shed

i checked mazda as my daily driver but my projects a ford, naturally