R100

Back from the chassis straighteners. New quarter cut stitched into place.

Slowly stripping car back to bare metal.

Getting it ready to be loaded up and dropped off to get the chassis straightened. 

Electric seems to be the most common conversion in escorts,http://www.burtonpower.com/power-steering-conversion-kit-ford-escort-mk2-rhd-pske2r.html

I think there are cheaper options than that tho

Seen those electric kits and was like yeah nah. Looks like a problems.

But it seems a few people use them.

Ideally i want to fit a standard type power steering rack.

Discuss/ Laugh  > //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54010-r100s-1977-ford-escort-van-thing/

Build thread here > //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53906-r100s-1977-ford-escort-van/

The owner wants power steering installed.

Anyone know of a suitable rack that might work ?

Customer decided on the new engine.

3800 V6 with 5 speed manual.

We had debated for quite a while what engine to fit bt the choice has been made.

Engine placed in engine bay to sort out shifter location.

You need a bigger garage.

Hope your building that thing to LVVC standard

Started chopping and cutting away at the damaged panels.

Big job really as nothing unbolts on this thing.

Only everything is welded.

New nose cut from Ageing Auto Spares in Takanini

Well its not actually mine but a vehicle my shop is building up for a customer.

Purchased new by its current owner in 1977

Customised in the very early 80's, see the picture below with over 1000 hours spent on it.

All steel body and body kit.

Commodore tail lights

BD 323 nose cone.

Worked 2  liter cortina engine with twin 40mm webers

13x8 and 14x10 Thompson performance alloys.

Not long after if was built and after recieving a few trophies and appearing as a feature car in nz hot rod magazine it was crashed.

It has been sitting in the owners shed for the past 27 years.

Now i have the task to get it back on the road.

Plans include bringing it back to the way it looked in the photo

New set of tires.

New engine.

New diff and brakes

New paint.

Update

My Name is Sgtjackass, and this is my story

 

So i went to court to 'mediate' this thing. I brought with me a stack of invoices for the parts i had replaced which showed all the 'failed' components were brand new. He presented his case, i presented mine, i thought mine was rock solid.

Turns out, none of it mattered in the end. It came down to facts. 

1) He didn't get a prepurchase inspection, or ask me any questions on trademe. Therefore, he was in a better position as he was purchasing from the description alone.

2) In the months he had it and used it, the motor broke down.

3) He didnt talk to me about it before getting it repaired.

 

He wanted around 2.5k, 2000 for repairs and 500 for hurt feelings. They threw the hurt feelings out, as you cant put a price on feels.

They initially awarded him the 2k for misrepresentation, as when i sold it i said it was running well. He broke it, therefore it wasn't running well. However i argued that by repairing the outboard without telling me, he failed to mitigate my loss.

In the end he got awarded $1000

 

Lesson

Unless you are paying a mechanic to replace your parts and have an invoice to that regard, your repairs are basically ignored. It doesnt matter how much you spent, unless a shop does it, it doesnt mean anything in court

Put 'As is where is' on every listing, never mention speculative things like 'its running well' or it 'starts easy'. These can be held against you without any proof

Take heaps of videos of it running, if appropriate.

Never ever offer the buyer anything when they contact you asking for money. See them in court.

The court mediator knows nothing about your case or the thing you sold. He who puts things most simply wins.

 

Chur

Same shit happened to me once about 15 years ago.

I was wrongly accused of asking to get a valuation done on a property and was taken to court for $800

Had all my ducks in a row also the other guy had a "bigger" pile of paper work and the judge ordered me to pay the $800

I told both the judge and the property valuer to eat a dick and thanks for wasting my afternoon.

I walked out and didn't pay a cent.

Never heard anything about it again.

So i dunno who enforces the payment ?

The court didn't and neither did the other guy.

I think maybe i got lucky.

Any of you fullas been down the route of motorcycle certification in regards to building a custom hard tail ?

Bike in mind is a 2016 Royal Enfield 500.

Im talking about chopping off the rear section to fabricate a hard tail.

Used to have one of these. Mine had the roof lifted, was done prior to me purchasing it.

Although it was done professionally i couldn't get a wof as they wanted to roof certed.

With this and the fact it only had about 80hp (3.3 diesel) and was geared for city driving 90kmh max speed i sold it.

Had big dreams for it though.

What are you doing for a sump?

Picture below is the standard 4x4 Safari Sump

If i cut 6cm out of the bowl part this will bring it inline with the very bottom of the bell-housing. 

No parts of the engine/sump or transmission sump will sit below the front cross-member. 

These engines take 10 to 11 liters of oil including filters.

Since i wont be doing any 4 wheel driving or climbing 45 degree slopes i should be fine.

No Toyota stout there that I've seen nor is it the crane! It's the 54 dodge. Only car there that's in a carport. Would still be a ground up re build but it's complete and not the worst rust ive ever seen.

Rustisize I know for a fact there's a pile of ford flat heads there.......

I bought a mk 4 cortina off them back in 1992. Used to be parked in there carport.

Ive been given the unlucky job of fitting a 351 Cleveland into a 1965 Ford Ranchero.

The engine bay is more or less the same as a 1965 Mustang.

The Rachero came factory with a Windsor and the Cleveland is much wider.

The Cleveland bolts in ok but getting the headers to fit is not ging to happen unless i mod the shock towers.

This is common thing do to but in merica but what is usually done here in NZ to pass a cert ?

Pics stolen from the net showing cut shock towers.

Any rotary conversion is going to cost you a heap of cash.

You will have to upgrade your diff as well.

Because the van is so short and your limited to space under the seats the only thing with any decent grunt that will fit will be a rotary.

You can always mount something behind the seats but then the drive shaft is too short so your going to have to fit a independent rear.

How about drop a subaru engine and box in it.

You could space the engine from the box to make the engine more mid mounted.

Cheers ears. That all makes sense to me when explained like that.

Hey man. You can make that trans operate manually without the ecu quite easily. Im a real fan of that box after fiddling with my safari one.

The same box is behind vh45 motors in the leopard (I think) and it has more clutch plates than the safari version and maybe yours too -maybe worth checking.

There are differences in the input shaft too - it's either longer or shorter for the diesels compared to that on the VH version so you may want to swap em over.

If you REALLY Wanted to be flash you could have someone create a simple circuit to enable the use of paddle shifters.

From my understanding if i get it running with no electronics i should have second and third only ?  

If thats the case 1st can be on a button and so can 4th (overdrive) as there's already a button on the factory terrano shifter for this. 

Always hard to find any good information when your building random weird shit.

TD42's in everything i say. 

As much as i would love a manual i felt as though i really needed something decent behind the TD42 and no W series or Nissan "big box" would cut it.

The safari/patrol 5 speed FS5R50A boxes are more or less a truck gearbox. Not only are they friggin huge, they are very hard to find in RWD format. Even then they are a remote shifted box as used on a Civilian bus.

The standard Safari, Patrol, Civilian auto trans is a RE4R03A with a 4WD transfer box bolted to it.

Im using a RE4R03A from a 300ZX (VG30DETT) bolted to a standard TD42 bellhousing.

Its semi electronic so i will need to do some electronic trickery to make it work correctly. 

Should tow pretty mean once completed.

800mm front front pulley/water pump to where bellhousing bolts up.

Bit of an update.

I decided on a TD42 Turbo for maximum torks.

Engines quite long so one of the cylinders bobs up and down under the dash. 

Will chuck some better pics up next week or something.

Can anyone recommend a company that can crack test and machine cylinder heads.

I used to use a company in East Tamaki but they are now closed.

I then tried a company in howick who caused me alot of stress (got told a price over the phone then it changed when i came to collect)

Cheers