Stacov

hey Ok i pretty much know how to hook theses up, I got the sports cluster for the escort so thats battery,fuel,oil,water guage what i want to know is what sort of power source u got to use to power the guages? When i connect the petrol wire to the guage then a power wire from under the dash. It keeps making the gauge read FULL when it really has about 5 bucks of gas in it and starts to smoke alittle. What i was thinking is the power wire i was using had to much current so sending the wrong power to it making it go all weird. so what power source should i be using? thanks

Might do that Escorta will see how things work out could even be a simple problem but doubt it. Because the car wasnt even going when i brought it had a wireing problem had a break in one of the wires so car wouldnt start, and i have noticed window wipers dont work either and battery light stays on all the time. Even tho ive changed alternators so i dunno how many wireing problems this car got but all the important stuff seems to work e.g. starting car,lights,indicators etc.. last thing i want to do is take it to a auto-election dont like throwing my money away

yup! unless the tacho itself is broken ?

everything else on the dash works but the rev counter fuel/temp and yes its on neg side of the coil and its connected to the coil. By one of those coil plugs dont know there name but the wire going from the rev counter to coil has abit where u plug the coil neg plug into then another end that goes onto the coil. if u can understand that not too clear maybe i should take a pic but reason fuel/temp isnt working as they are not connected as i was going to connect them to the cluster guages

i double check, i even triple checked and they are in the order as escort power wrote but still no go!!!! everything looks to be connected properly. so yeah i have no idea why its not working

how about rebuilt the 1275 mini engine and slap a turbo on it

hmm not sure aye might have to pull them all out and do what the guide says and see what happens

hmm tryed a wire directly from where the green wire is connected straight to neg on coil and still no go got me stumped it should work!!! argh!!! might have to get a aftermarket tacho dont wanta tho and how u hook up these guage clusters fuel oil water battery ?? u need some sort of power going to these then the fuel wire to get the reading??

ok got my wire list same as yours here goes 5 wire loom from up to down Grey/yellow black/yellow Green *this is going to neg coil but doesnt work* might have to rewire that one Brown 9 wire loom goes from left to right Black/white Blue/black Brown Blue/green Black/yellow Blue Blue/white Red/white Black/green as u can see its the same i thinnk the green wire is the one might have a break in it and wont work when on neg coil ill have to redo it and see what happens

not sure ill get the colours tomorrow and post them up

ok i got the 9 wire sport loom it seems everything is connected but the rev counter doesnt work, could u tell me what the wires are like power earth etc.. ? its hard because the guy i got the car off redid the whole loom so its kinda hard to know where everything is / going to the right place and where abouts does the rev counter connect to negitive on the coil and where else? cheers

Hey are the rear drums off the 2.0 cortina interchangable with esky rear drums??

sweet lotsa of ideas, yeah not too sure what im going to do yet but im sure ill come up with something now

engine specs that i know of cosworth cam dunno if it is but i say at least a fast road cam as u gotta idle it pretty high just for it to idle, flat top pistons, double valve springs, larger oil garleries, thats what i know off my head i didnt build the engine so cant be 100% what else is in their / been done but the guy spent 3-4 grand building it so i would say most things been done. things i added recon dizy,new leads/spark plugs, 40mm twin throat webber "off a v6 capri" and custom 2 and half" extractors ill make a new post when its a sunny day so i cant take lots of pics and put them up

dunno yet only started it in the shed because i still gotta connect shit loads of crap up :/ but the main goal was to get the engine going!! but the way she revs / sounds she going to pull harder then a school kid lol

Finally got her started and boy does she rev she loves it! cant wait intill i get her fully on the road.

lol that is with the handbrake off yeah RT probably have to get another factory stick. might even have one lying around somewhere if im lucky.

2nd and 4th its because the gearstick been cut down Yeah i could but that costs money. Thats like a last resort. I think theres some guy on trademe who sells them? looks like a home made jobbie Short Shift Gear Lever With spherical bearing Sierra & Rocket long or short $250.00 thats from palmside.. ouch

Alright, for yous who have the pinto in there escort. Do any of yous have problems with the gearstick hitting the handbrake? and whats the easiest way to solve this little problem? I dont think it would be much of a problem if the guy i got the car off didnt cut the gearstick down. So now the top of the gearstick hits the front/sides of the handbrake without its knob on any ideas? cheers

cambelt back on with timing set, it has bigger screws in the oil feed spray bar then it should. This was the reason why the cam wouldnt move and notice its got a broken screws in the middle been snaped off so the spray bar hasnt be working 100%!!! Got my mate whos a mechanic to do the timing and hes fixing the rest of it too. So i got lucky he wanting to help!!! will keep yas updated.

yeah we forgot to mark it after we ripped off the cambelt we were like shit!!!! forgot to mark it

ALSO This is real important how do i set the timing i know the pulleys and dizzy gotta be pointing at there little marks they have. But whats the fireing order what inlets has to be open etc..? try to research on the net only found this "camshaft, crankshaft and distributor timing marks (triangular arrows) with No 1 piston at TDC on its firing stroke" is that all or what? im not really sure just trying to find out all the info i can before i try and i dont want to kill the engine. cheers guys and girls

well thats what i thought that they were oil spray bar but then i loosen the bolts and noticed the cam became easy to turn and if u made it tight tight u couldnt move the cam at all? so being a oil spray bar is shouldnt affect the movement of the cam? should i take the bolts out and check how long they are? its a 10mm spanner maybe someone put longer bolts in for unknown reasons? :/

anyone know what that metal bar thing is on the right hand side of the cam? it seems if u loosen it u can move the cam really easy if u tighten it u cant move it at all anyone able to tell me what it is? and how tight it should be? im guessing hand tight

ok finally got the cam moving again lots of crc a block of wood/hammer and a big socket must of been the bearing seized. Now the joy of spending hours setting the cambelt / timing