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Alistair

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Posts posted by Alistair

  1. 25977653986_2f7c3ce8cd_k_zpse1q295er.jpg

    2016-04-16%2014.34.34_zpsvkbmyagc.jpg

    Yawn update. Drive this thing every weekend basically rain or shine. Rain is lols. Made burger meet (in the rain as above), went to caffeine & classics etc

    Got new rear tyres and found one of the rear wheels is buckled hence the slight motorway wobbles I've had so going to drop both in to Arrow Wheels soon to get sorted. 4th & 5th are pretty noisy but not notchy or anything so just keeping an eye out for a w57/58 to have as a replacement if/when this lets go.

    Changed the blocks out today for 38mm (had 50mm's) just to get some more clearance in the rear, makes it nicer to cruise now, can hit bumps without worrying about peeling tread off in the arches. Carpark picture shows height as it sits now. Still haven't done the fuel sender or wipers. Will get to that lol.

    Pretty sure the tune has been locked so can't do launch control or anything without starting from scratch. Might do this as the valve springs were shimmed super tight because it was dropping valves due to harsh limiter and I think this has been changed now so could go to smaller shims so the motors not so noisy.

    • Like 7
  2. Yeah that's my theory. Could go to a semi slick to start as it's the next step up from road tyres but if im buying a set of rims for it may as well go to drag tyre. Have to pedal it to get it to hook in second, sometimes 3rd on high boost at the moment so imagine road tyres on drag strip is going to be a waste of time.

     

    It does have caltracs on the leafs and does feel like with the right tyre it would hook up from a dead start but who knows till it's out there. I guess main thing for me is working out wheel/tyre size that is going to fit.

    • Like 1
  3. you may want to look at drag radials if you want to run normal street tyres on the front. ET street tyres are bias ply which are not ideal to mix with radials on the front.

     

    Heaps of people do it, myself included, but be prepared for semi scary handling, the bum will sort of steer itself which if you try and correct, leads to getting a sway on, you have to let it do its own thing

     

     

    If you are buying tyres and theres not much price difference then radials might be better, they have conventional sizing as well, ie 275/50/15

    Ah right, I do remember seeing something about that somewhere re: not mixing.  What tyre do you run? Did you source locally?

  4. Can someone explain these MT sizings: https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreet

     

    Like the first one: 

    90000000967   3752   26X10.50-15LT 20 M5 90000000289 8 10.5 8.3 26.1

    82

     

    I'm assuming it's to go on a 15" x 8" wheel, but whats section width vs tread width? Says tread is 8.3 so it's a 210 wide tyre? Whats the sidewall height?

     

    Basically trying to get some drag wheels/tyres for the rear of the KE20. Easy if I can keep the 17's on the front and run something on the rear but if I went 15's with a drag tyre do I need to try and keep the overall diameter of a 15 & tyre close to that of the 17 & tyre on the front so it's not reverse raked?

  5. What's the standard one, and what's available?

    Do you mean gauge or sender?

     

    There is no sender in the tank, needs to be cut into it and fitted. The fuel gauge is stock KE20.

  6. How would I find out what Ohms range my fuel gauge has? Setup a potentiometer with volts gauge, set it to an arbitrary figure like 90 Ohms full, then connect to 12v with the potentiometer on the gauge and see where the needle reads at?

    Need to fit a sender to my fuel cell but they seem to have different Ohm amounts. If the stock ke20 gauge is different to what is available in the senders am I stuck with having to buy an aftermarket fuel gauge with the matching ohms?

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