Ke36

Looks like an awesome meet. Better plan a North meet South meat sometime.

so so so keen

just make sure its in the south island!!

yea all fluid is brand new

rinsed heaps through the system

thought that was just my issue, it has improved just not 100%

guna grab another bottle twomorrow and do the whole system again

ok iv got a similar issue with my lancer so ill throw it in here, ex lancer stock 1200cc master and booster

starion front struts and s14 rear calipers

car drove round for 6 months and got cert with setup brakes were sweet as

went to a track day kaned the fuck out of my car and it loved it

driving home brakes pedal had more throw, from what i can remember

car sat around at home for ages, i rebuilt the rear brakes (coz the were sticking if left sitting on for ages) and chucked them back on (front were rebuilt 6 months ago)

rebleed front and rear brakes heaps

with the engine off give the pedal a couple of pumps and its hard as a rock

but turn the car on and it has a bit of travel and never really gets to that rock hard stage if you pump it, the pedal feels reasonably solid but the braking performance is definately down on what it was before, you can jump on it hard as fark and it wont lock up

put a vice grip on any of the lines, (only needs to be one line) and the pedal goes hard as instantly

any ideas?

pads are getting quite low but they should self adjust, corrrect?

is it possible that now the pads are worn down its bringing to light a mismatched m/c like uj is talking about?

but didnt think theyd go hard like they do when the cars off

looks like a good meet guys

dattos look nice

sorry couldnt make it car had no wof

still only seem to be able to get single pages translated?

even using translate google, goes ok for a bit then back to jap with errors etc

ok cheers havent had a chance to have a look at your stuff yet ky

but will soon

id previously been translating individual pages using bablefish which was painful

how the fuck do you look at yahoo japan so you can semi understand it?

who deleted my post??^^^^^^

capris are yuck get over it

nah was certainly a new one to me, i cant quite remeber now but i think the yarn from the guy who sold it to you was that he had bought it a couple of years back from an older couple then maybe a job in oz so had just been sitting stored and was accumulating parts

your thomas' bro then i take it?

i went and checked out the car for him/you and took sum pics

nice solid car for sure, if i had the cash at the time i probly would have got it myself, hope you were happy with it when you got it up to aucks

you get this from chch?

1200 for the bellhousing

ouch

my brakes arent spongy and i have starion fronts with s14 rears and still running off only the 1200cc ex lancer m/c

are your pads not new all round?

i will say tho after having been to a track day recently and smashed the shit out of the pads they are feeling different for sure, i.e much more travel in the pedal

Your fluid will have boiled or taken on air at the trackday. Always bleed them again after hitting the track.

have actually rebuilt the rear brakes (unrelated issue) so rebleed the rears

havent touched the front though, so might give that a try, will post up here trigger so you can rule out a mismatch if it all comes up sweet

my brakes arent spongy and i have starion fronts with s14 rears and still running off only the 1200cc ex lancer m/c

are your pads not new all round?

i will say tho after having been to a track day recently and smashed the shit out of the pads they are feeling different for sure, i.e much more travel in the pedal

cheers man, thought it mite have been there, there sold out tho, managed to get on for the same sorta price off ebay its just guna take forever to get here

sorry man, ill be using them on the front.

given that simmons dont make wheels anymore im going to hang on to all the bits i can get.

Retro Wheels

Wheels & Rims--Automotive - Mortdale, NSW

Ph: (02) 9570 3033

74 Roberts Ave

Mortdale

NSW, 2223

Australia

have the rights to do the smaller simmons (up to 15s i believe, have done so for a while now) so if all else fails

good luck

i got some larger nolathane ones and turned them down on a lathe to fit

get a late model (7,8,9) evo bov, i believe they are metal as opposed tot eh earlier plastic ones

they can handle over 20psi

whered you get ur omp steering wheel from and how muchy was it?

to start off with yea measured up lower arms and they are equal from mounting point on crossmember to balljoint

shocks dont appear to be bent as they have equal wheel spacing to the wheel edge at the top of the wheel

went tand had a talk to the wheel alignment guy today

he said that it is a bit of a difference he also said about how if i was just using it as a street car he wouldnt worry, as it would help it ride up on the crown of the road like others have said

however since its a weekend warrior/turning more and more track orientated his suggestion was to get it back in set it all up on the machine and see if i can get some moevment out of it like you suggest through the crossmember and then if it is still way out do the old elongate the holes in the xmember on the right side to bring that one out to match the -2 value

so its either that or i get some adjustable top hats made up

he also said that hed add in up to 4deg of castor for better turn in and get rid of the toe all together, which he explained was at its current value so driving on the road it is easier on the tyres (offsets the wear of my -ve camber)

height in the rear from center of rim to gaurd is less than 5mm difference with the passenger side slightly lower than the drivers

If your not wanting it for D1's just traction then go a torsen from an altezza there's no modifications and they only go for ~$300ish. No mods needed, dropped one straight into the soarer housing, at worst in a live housing you may have different bearings.

Factory F clutch LSD's are stink you can shim them up and they will hook 2 but when cornering they unpredictably let one go, no ramps. If you want to D1 you need a TRD, Cusco etc centre proper clutch LSD all still available new

while were on a close subject can you buy good aftermarket lsds for a hliux diff?

rear is hilux solid axle, non adjustable springs

measuring both centre of rim to guard height and sill at a pillar

when i was having issues i measured the adjustables everywhich way and they are definately the same, changed springs etc

wouldn't worry about it too much. Slot the holes on the right hand side for max camber on left and right.

if it is just a natural thing, i.e not something broken etc then ill just get adjustable tophats to even it up

its jsut going by everything it should be even

yea mate just got his hole dash from his ke30 retrimed at patricks for a very good price

then stub axel angle by measureing how close the rim is to the strut at top and compare with other side, see if crossmember can be slid side to side, then see if top hats can be rotated to give differnt offset, i'd also be looking at the height to see if its sitting even, if a shock was leaking and one corner was 10mm lower? wouldnt expect it to affect it that much...

sweet will check that shit, pretty sure the top hats are even

the car sits even height wise but for some farked up reason (can only b weight i guess) i have to have it wound down 10mm or so on the left side to sit at the same even

possible when my threaded tubes for the spring perches were welded on it something isnt right?but would think the spring would just be a little bent if its not 100%

aslong as the shock goes up straight