Ke36

Just get some outer lips made.

nah was looking at swapping some un welded two pieces into another set of two pieces

nah not talking about the centre bolting to the car i mean bolting the centre to the 4wd outer?

not 6 stud to 4 stud etc, but as in the 30 + or so bolts

most 4wd rims seem to have heaps of bolts holding the centre to the outer but my jap rims have farless than that

are u matching the bolt pattern of the outers to the centres you have zeb or is there a way you can put any centres in there?

i.e weld the outers up and redrill the bolt pattern?

so whats the deal with this?

go some centres that i wouldnt mind swapping into some wider outers ive got my eye on

do you have to fine something with the same bolt pattern for the centre or whats the go?

yea what he said and....

driveshafts depends on what replica rx3 crossmember you use some mount them slightly further back so need a little shortening and also require some massaging of the firewall for the clutch fork/slave rod

if u get the proper xmember then everything fits perfect driveshaft etc and gearstick lines up in the factory hole

use 323 gearbox crossmember with a flat plate as an adaptor to bolt to the s1 gearbox just needs 4 holes in it

s1 rx7 extractors can fit but require a bit of heating and tapping to clear the steering box

rx3/rx7 radiators fit pretty easily,rx7 ones end up having the oil cooler pretty low if you want to mount it under there in the factory location tho,(can al,ways tuck it up behind the grill) theres some cheap alloy rx3 ones i trademe i think which fit better

wiring is pieice of piss for anyone who knows what there doing (not me hahah) think ya only need to change bout 3 or 4 wires

there the same chassis as a rx3 from strut towers forward

wellside rules my face

haha yea the yanks seem to love them, and always seem to back it up with evidence of the toyota 3t engines

to save starting a new thread, what sort of options are there in a 185/xx/15? looking at getting some for some 7s

+1 for new front looking awes

pretty sure hes just using a l200 gearbox zac

ok so wanting to get some steels for my mitsi to get it rolling and maybe widen later for drag rims

closest i can find in a 15 is 66.1 to my 67.1

die grinder? any other less dodge options?

Fitter turner / anyone with a lathe big enough to hold the rim will just machine some out.

yea thats the obvious way, but elite told me not possible( however at the time the steel i had was a much smaller centre bore so there would have been no ring left, not keen on the roughly $50 a wheel it would cost tho

yea cheap sigma steels is the go if i can find some cheap enough, as it doesnt really give me the option of using them for drag rims later

ok so wanting to get some steels for my mitsi to get it rolling and maybe widen later for drag rims

closest i can find in a 15 is 66.1 to my 67.1

die grinder? any other less dodge options?

yea 14s min due to brakes but i really need to go bigger

ground clearance and minimum room upfront plus the new stretching rules etc mean anything small is going to look tryhard

im thinking maybe something like this hahah

with the coilovers and getting camber plates hoping maybe squeeze a 7.5 up front but my 7s were pretty flush

sweet guys

yea im figuring i was lucky and the engine stalled before the cam gear broke off

ill let ya no if i find anything else when i check

ok so im slowly getting back into this

have picked up an new shell and starting to switch some stuff in and the old one is probly the size of a box of beers now

im after some help on colour and wheel choice

im swaying towards red or white at the moment, more so red, just the brightest flatest one

was going to paint my old wheels white but they seem rather bent, so may not be economical to use them so after other ideas, bearing in mind anything wider than a 7 isnt going to fit under the front really

im open to any ideas

o and if anyone is after ex parts ask, mainly suspension and interior

ok cheers ill check that too

is it possible even if things look ok there still stuffed?

ok so wen my car went upside down it snapped the cam gear off so i was worried about the valves getting all bent outta shape, its a 4g63t so is an interferance motor

have taken the head off and there appears to be no visible witness marks on either the valves or the pistons

have also rotated the cams over checking each cylinder individually by shining a torch down the ports and there is no light "leakage" from any of the valves

is it safe to say i got really lucky and no valves got damaged?

or do i need to get more indepth testing done?

aaahhhhh, so , it's quieter with less plates, as long as you have the END PLATE on there.

that's the bit I was struggling with. i was like, how can it be quiet with nothing on there. but I didn't factor in the end plate.

yea always have to have the end plate

the end of them is flared so more plates spaces the rear plate (as opposed to the discs) further back allow effectively making the end opening to be larger as well as allowing gas to escaped between the plates , the less plates you have in there the closer down the end plate is and thus the narrower the exit of the exhuast is

further more, why does it have to be a toyota diff? what's wrong with an L200 LSD diff? they're plenty strong too. The ramps in Hilux LSDs are useless anyway, most of them one wheel spin at times

i thought all 6 stud diffs were a prick to use?

thats why you use 5 stud axels from the hiluxs cos otherwise the centre bore is massive, and to turn it down so any sort of wheel fits on you end up with nothing

giz us ur guard mirrors

more plates = mroe backpressure = quieter.

nope, its the other way round

quietest with no plates

and i believe they are illegal now aswell

jap theme wud be nice but definately no on the mk1s

wud end up looking like shallow dish smoothies = an alternative to mods

my comment was to sort this issue

Im going to have to look at the brakes as they still feel faded after 24hrs of not being driven

RIP

flush the brake fluid, its probly boiled and is toast, should sort the brakes