Ke36

oh you,

im also thinking of a mk2 daily with wide green steels

springs are only half egg(smaller at top) so can still legitimised with a grinder

hands off

sweet yea not too worried how quick it is aslong as it gets around town, wheels and lowering would be the extent of my mods, other than shocks and brakes are they a mission to get low?

any issues with the autos?

cheers bro, am looking at this one in particular http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =331741558 , is a puss bucket 1300 auto but fits my main daily crtieria in small engined and cheap cheap

was thinking just slammed on green widened steels for a bit of lols but unsure if its worth the effort/will just end up looking like a mud

any one had experince with them lowering etc? are they a pain to mess around with or fairly simple?

looking at one for a new daily, wudnt mind some lower and maybe widened steels for it so keen to see what they look like with a bit of tinkering, can only seem to find mk1 pics

cheers

avoid them whenever possible due to the fuck around with my diff

do escort metal polishes repair curbage etc aswell?

i got told elite was 40-50 a wheel turned up and the guy charged me 70+gst for each

and theres still imperfections in them not overly happy with the job and the deviation in price they seem to give

chucked one of my wheels together, thoughts?

so........

ive been getting a bit of work done on this lately

underside is all sprayed up nice in black, have my put rearend all in (still need to notch the chasis) engine bay is stripped and have fitted motor to hammer the firewall for clearance and is all removed again reading for prep

test fitted my new w57 and custom bellhousing and that all clears in the tunnel good, was supprised with how much clearance i had (was an auto originally so may have helped)

have pretty much replaced all the broken parts from the crash

so now stripping it down completely and starting p n p, hopefully get it painted over xmas/new year brake and have it back together end of jan

getting some cheap impul 15x7 +20 i got to roll it on cleaned up and cetres coated at the moment, will post some pics when i get them back to see what ya's think, still undecided wether or not i will run them

at the moment plan is to paint it red so any suggestions on a good red? no metallics or pearls just straight red, wheel centres are going gold

no pics suck

They dipped them and sandblasted them? And the clear coated the powder coat? Sounds like a lot of double handling.

Did they mask the areas that bolt to the wheel hub and where the outer and inner shells bolt to?

sometimes powder coaters clear coat their stz when the coating is too thin and the sand blasted texture shows though, its cheaper than re-blasting and coating

also some of the powder coat isnt designed for the harshness of being on a wheel etc so clear coat protects it better

have heard that using a sigma crossmemeber when putting a 2l in a lancer mounts the motor a little bit further rearward than than using a 1600cc lancer crossmemeber, and when trying to mount a sigma swaybar in my car (all lancer stuff) the eye ends ended up being slightly rearward of where the link arms went up, which makes sence given your measurements

just put a 1600cc lancer engine crossmember in it

old corollas are +20 so should b somewhere around there and 4x110

the wheels are the only bit i like, but have always loved them

the rest is yuck, and im sorry but just doing something beacuse it is different in the scene etc does not deserve its own praise just because, while certain points of the car over its life have been done reasonably well and i do appreciate the workmanship, that roof chop is horrid, just beacuse he decided to do something that has been done for years on other cars and do it on a bmw, which it turns out does not work at all, is not "win"

yea its only the top bit so i can put the threaded section for the gland nut on, sleeve sits below that

chur

remaking one of my bent coilovers up, cut the old coilover sleeve off and that slips over the strut no worries and will just weld it at the bottom

my query is, is it ok to butt weld the top of my strut tubes after cutting them down or does it need to be a slip over aswell?

its just the top inch or so with the bit the retaining nut screws into

sweet think we have one of those claw pullers at work or something similar, will hav a looksee

anyone got any tips for getting a pitman arm off?

dont have a heat plant so thats a no go at the moment

Petty its only on the wideblocks.Would be aws if it could bolt to a narrow block for a high RPM box option.Ive been finding that the sigma box dosnt like anything over 6000rpm, gutted!

yea found that out too, was a pain at the drags, i bit the bullet and bought one of the w series adapters but iv got heaps of shit to sort before i eva find out how much better it goes

ask on www.ausrotary.com

did the starion swaybar bolt up sweet?, when i tired to mount a sigma one in mine the ends didnt line up with the link arms in the lower control arms, the ends sat around 20mm rearward from what i remember

dohc, sohc doesnt have anything on the rear

believe the sigma mounts the engine slightly more rearward

i think if u use sigma xmember you can use sigma sway bar which is a plus but requires more firewall bashing for the stuff on the rear of the motor

i used sigma crossmember in my 1200

yea but is starion the same?

keen.............. o wait thats right i dont have a car cos the last track day i went to i rolled it

its not the crossmember itself?

dunno anyone that has used the actual starion crossmember in an ex most just use a 1600 lancer one

the only difference i remeber between the steering components is the starion tieroad spacer (the twin threaded tube on the right hand side) is a bit longer than the ex one

other than that i just used everything you have and no issues here

edit : have u tried it with the starion drag link to see if it still fouls?

pretty sure the 323 gearbox crossmember works with a s1 rx7 box..

It doesnt. I think people put a plate with four holes in, the plates about 150mm long, hangs of the back of the crossmember, and attaches to the g/box that way.

This is exactly what ive done in the past. Works wonderfull

yea thats what i did too, dont see y there wud be any issues

yea have some centres that are currently 15x7 +20 offset

found some 15x8.5 - offset 4x4 rims going cheap on trademe and was wondering about the feasibility of it as had seen others doing it, but not worth the hassle it seems