Defcon

That is absolutly awsome man, so thats 150 for the kit, and we have to supply our own dgav and falcon throttle? Great work!

Matt

I dont think that really has to much to do with the actual making of the cars, that could happen to any or all car manufacturers.

Its to do with the new financial reporting legislation (sarbenaes Oxley ect)

Requring greater disclosure- as result they now have to discolse their future pension obligations (contingincies) as Liabilites. That doesnt have anything to do with car manufacturing.

RT 0w3d j0

Matt dawg

Those carbs might be overkill on a standard engine. Anyway, dont bother trying to tune it your self. Chances are your not guna be able to stop it running rich yourself, the jets are probably too large, so no amount of twisting screws will help. Take it to a professional, they'll jet it and tune it to suit.

^^ The O.G's of the forum remember the countless threads on this, read my mind LowLancer. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=4159

I think the idea of a classic is pretty much on to it.

how much is that costing you man? I got a g200 in a coupe, so the system would be identical to yours.

Cheers

Matt

Yeah man im keen as, leon will be to nodoubt. Whats the deal with camping out over there?

haha , you dont know how tempted I am to leave it rat. A hypo engine would be great in rat exterior......hmm maybe il have a think about it....

looking forward to see the finished result... Found a place to get it painted yet?

what colour are you planning on painting by the way?

Planing on painting her gloss black, not sure where just yet. Guna pop by PK pannel and exculsive pannel and a few other local places as soon as exams are over.

I got the pertronix kit from http://www.philspeed.co.nz was bout 250 bucks from memmory, maybe a little more it was a while ago. The guy was a legend and real helpful. Though I think you can probably get it off the pertronix online store a little cheaper. It was piss-simple to put in. Took all of ten minutes, bolt in pretty much. Would highly reccomend getting one dude, made a world of difference over dirty points!

Some better pictures of the rat gem.

Scored a paint job from the olds for my 21st so hoefully it will be painted in time for new-years, good bye rat look

Done.

What a rat gem!

Hmmm next place.....

Retirement home! With some old hotties chillin/pervin for extra points

My best bet, 4-4.5 with cert, 5ish with wof and rego. Mention its a mitsubishi 2 litre turbo and that should bump the price a little, Information is your friend in this case, mention anything that might add value in a perspective buyers eyes.

Just a question R100, how do you guys clean the pan afterwards? What do you use to get the rubber off, acid or something? We're Sellling the house and I need to get rid of a few skid marks in the driveway

Thanks,

Matt

EFI is the way to go, with the throttle before the s/c intake. The toyota superchares wil work sweet with efi, (as above) but shit with a carby setup.(Btw dont go blow-through, its really hard to get tuned right). If you can, try find a differnt s/c, the toyota ones are actually pretty shit, inefficient and produce a lot of heat. Personally i think a suck through supercharger would be the sweetest, not the most effective, but definatly looks the coolect and goes with the oldschool theme. Theres a couple of companys that make some nice suck through s/c's for 4 cyclinders. Some of the harley davidson s/c would suit you well, they look really cool(roots sytle) and come up on trademe every now and then.

Matt

Right well it looks like its time to get the coupe painted. I know this question as come up before, but im mo' hungover and its a sunday night so i cant be bothered searching. So what paint/pannel shops should I check out? Guna go round a get a few quotes so I wana know where's good/ reasonably priced?

Cheers,

Matt

Yeah as zep said, the cyclinder head shop. I asked the guy about porting and he told me anyware between 300 and 800 bucks because he hadnt ported a gemini head before. Hes bound to have done a fair few pintos so I'd rock up and he'll probably be able to give you pretty accurate estimate.

Man, I'd totally check the mounts to the chassis/diff make sure that its not the mounts that are screwed. Other then that all i can guess at is the chassis?

Its a wierd problem you got.

Matt

I ripped all the tar out of my coupe aye, All up theres maybe 5 kgs in it max and its totally not worth the effort. Plus now you get all these tapping/tinging noises of stones hitting the body from underneath. It also stops the gear box tunnel and footwels' getting so hot. I'd just leave it in.

Matt

When I had to make my fuel return line, Zep and I rang up a cert guy and he told us they have to be metal. I think the idea was that the rubber lines could fray over time. Not too sure but thats what i was told. So i ran down to auto stop when they sell metal fuel line by the metre and bent a new one up my self.

Matt

The coupes are japaness so not Tx's, there Pf 50's.

My best bet at the number of coupes around is about 10, probably no more. Of these about 5 or 6 would be road worthy/ not rusted out.

I would say the value of a coupe to the public would be aprox 2k-2.5 k(for a mint one). To a gemini/chevette person who knows how rare they are here maybe 3k if its really mint.

I went searching for about a year to find my coupe, over that time i saw maybe 5 coupes, but all were rusted out pretty bad. There getting harder and harder to find.

I say go find & buy it, you could join our little fraternity!

Matt

Which brings me to my next point. You have a spring with 8 coils. You cut (we'll say hacksaw just to get rid of any chance of heat causing damage to the spring) 2 coils off. Making it 6 coils. Less coils, stiffer spring rate. Some cars don't use springs with tappered ends, so you can cut them and they will still sit in there safely. If your springs are tapered top and bottom you must get the cut end tapered back flat so that it will sit flush. Now, you get shorter shocks that are appropriate for your vehicle and that allow the spring to remain captive in the car, even though those 2 coils have been removed.

HOW IS THAT DANGEROUS?

If someone can argue a valid point as to why that is dangerous, I will agree and never try to defend the logic behind cutting springs again. Doit.

I think your prtty much on the money there Mikuni.

Can we consider the cut spring/ modgies agurment over an move on yall.

Cutties; When you angle grind off the coils you heat the spring(which has already been heated up and allowed to cool down at a certain rate) the spring then cools and upper coils property changes, what more is that each side you do heats and cools at different rates so you have a bunch of springs with differnt properties thorugh out the coils. Thats not good for handling. Along with the usual cuting mishaps(cutting springs at different parts of the coil)

Aslong as the cutties are captive(and you havent substantially weakned them) i dont think theres much of a problem with them.

But they definatly do not handle better then a set of aftermarket springs.

W0rd

Totally stupid fresh plate i saw today, read as though what an idiot!

Message plate

"No Onez Alike Our

[VAASU]

"No One Ever... Would Be"

Wtf is that shit, bet the person at plates just took down what ever the person said (accent inculded)

Nice work bro, who'd a thought it'd get this big. Keep it up man.

I got a pertronics electronic conversion kit(replaces points with a module) from philspeed for my gemini. I HIGHLY reccomend it. Never have to bother with points again and the difference was amazing, much smother drive and got a few hps out of it too, Phill was really helpful also, (Stayed true to a quote post the NZ Dollar crash) http://www.philspeed.co.nz

You could have a port put on the manifold for vac -ad, or just advance the dizzy a few degrees, say 2-4 not sure about mitsi's but thats what i did on my engine.