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KustomKreeps

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Posts posted by KustomKreeps

  1. Question for everyone.

    What is the "best" ride height.

    By this i mean as low as you can go but still not worry about bottoming out etc as you drive about.

     

    I know the legal limit is 100mm. whats still rather low considering i can air out lower when parked. But is 100mm good for highway, driveway, day to day driveing? Or do you risk damage.

     

    My setup is a 1949 Hudson custom. New front end and rear end.

    Ridetech HQ Shockwaves, 5 gallon digital setup. 

    More info on my build thread. 

    Im at the stage i need to decide on ride height as the old front and rear have been cut out and I need to figure how low i want the car. So ideas please and advice. 

     

    Thanks

    Alex

     

     

  2. Pro photo doctoring at its finest my man.

    Will be staying four door, as you said easier to load people.

    Will be shaving the door handles and likely the boot as well. Been trying to decide if i will go power bearclaw or save my self the hassles and just 60lb traditional shaved kit. The current latches are still in good nick and work fine so im thinking i will be going solenoids and not the Bear claws. Save me a bit of cash this way aw well. 

    At the moment im stuck trying to figure out what PS pump to get. Im going to use a HydroBoost brake booster that runs off the PS pump. 

    As for the 50 Buick. Im personally a big fan of the 50 Buick fastback. But chopped. I have a 52 Buick and seen a 50 fastback and its roof was even higher. a good 2 or 3 inch off the front and they look brutal. Im such a fan of the 50 buick i have the grill off one i will be using on the Hudson. 50 above is in desperate need of lowing. reduce the altitude & raise the attitude.

    Alex

    • Like 1
  3. well i will start off with the fact that i took a week or so away from the project. Didn’t want to walk in the garage or acknowledge the existence of the motor or trans.

    Using the ol if i dont see it then it never happened reasoning.

    All this was brought about by the rather unpleasant sound of cast aluminium cracking. Now if you have never had that distinct displeasure of hearing this then im jelouse.

    So the story goes i was having a great ol time. tunes blaring, woodstocks sunk and it seemed like the best time to mate up the trans to the engine.

    Pop some fluid in the torque converter & slip it on hearing the clunks as it fitted on snugly.

    Place the newly worked trans on a trolly jack and position it.

    Easy i think and start tightening it up. CRACK!!!

    I freeze as heart skips a beat.

    Trans bellhousing around one of the bolt holes has a crack.

    I didnt swear or curse. just stared at it in shock. laid down my tools. Stood up. collected my tools and put them away then exited the garage to find a beverage. My dearest who was helping balance and hold stuff had the sense to not say a word as i went about these duties in silence.

    So guessing the dowls didn’t line up as well as i thought.
    tgJDzmS.jpg
    n45XwkY.jpg

    Not the end of the world. Can be TIGed back up. Just frustrating, annoying and plain old Grrrrr……

    This was done a few weeks ago. I have taken a lesson from our cat. that being ignoring it. So its still in the same place i left it – that being middle of garage and even though i walk around it i have chosen not to look at it. This method seems to work well for the cat. “I ignore your existence and you reward me with temptations”

    So I have moved on from that debacle to the ignition system.

    I dont like the HEI nailhead distributors. Big and ugly. dont look old school for my tastes.

    I had two old GM Delco distributors. Media blasted, reconditioned to make one good & smooth operating with no end play. New cap and rotor along with a paint job and its looking better than new. Will use the other as an oil primer once i get to the fluids phase.

    Ripped out the old points and condenser and have put in a Pertronix Ignitor II electronic ignition unit. So should never need to worry about that side of things again. Although i have kept the old parts to keep in the cars tool box just encase the new electronic ignition ever plays up. The conversion is all done inside the distributor so i can always swap back with no issues.

    Also got the Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil. Its like 45k Volts so way more than i need i guess but i decided to get the coil made to work with the new electronic ignition. Black of course ( i really cant help my self) yet the thing is going to be covered by the finned metal coil cover anyways.
    pik9lu_1.jpg

    For leads i went with Taylors ThunderVolt 8.2MM custom wire kit. things run at 40ohms so will carry the spark to problems. Nice and black so wont be an eyesore under the hood. The lengths of wire are ubber long whats good i guess. I sure did have alot of left over wire after cutting to length & crimping all the terminals up. Only down side with the kit is that it dosnt come with a crimper. But have a MSD one so that wasnt a biggie. The wires will be out of sight mostly due to the finned spark plug covers. Also the old Nailheads have the dissy at the back behind the intake so the duel carbs and airfilter will hide it all whats great. tested my leads and ALL had 39ohms or lower resistance. think the lowest was near 37ohms.
    81QiyWF22cL._SL1425_.jpg

    Alot of people seemed to recommend the old AC Delco R45S sparkplugs to work for Nailheads. So i went for those. The R45S are a tad longer than the normal ones.
    acf-r45s_w.jpg?rep=False

    And thats basically it for the ignition side at the moment.

    As for the car it self. I need to get in contact with Flockie to talk over the plan of attack i guess. With luck he has had a good ol poke about underneath and came up with a few ideas.

    Im chaffing at the bitt to finally get things going. Patience has never been one of my strong points – a trait i believe i picked up from my father then compounded by working in ICT where everything progresses fast if not instantaneous.

    Constantly telling my self slow down (or i may break something like a transmission…)

    • Like 5
  4.  

    p1090243.jpg

     

     

     

    Any of these tail lights for sale?

    Been trying to figure out what i may do on the rear of my current project.

    Thinking those could look ok one pointing up and one down on each side kinda like you have them laid out.

     

    Whats the dimensions of one light assembly? width and height.

     

    If you have four decent spares then flick me an email with some pics etc of each. alextowart at gmail dot com

     

    Doing some nice fab work man.

     

    Alex

  5. As often is the way~ life and work are getting in the way of what i really want to be doing: saving this heap of steel from restoration.

    Time of the year i guess with Christmas fast approaching and clients suddenly deciding its the end of the world if XYZ isn’t done like yesterday.
    i just stand there baffled as there mouth is moving wondering to myself “yes all very good and nice but come on surely they must agree the old car is more important… LEADSLED GOD DAMN IT!!!!”
    Its really starting to get out of control. I take it for granted its completely normal and sane if not even healthy for a guy to dream of cars n shift like that. But my dearest the other morning commented she is dreaming of cars. Cool i think to my self but whats that say about us o.0 – should note here we do live in a Bogan town so this may be common with in the local female populace..(you yanks think redneck i guess just dont youtube Bogan please)

    Anyways with said working life getting in the way i haven’t done sweet jack all.
    Popped on the Trans adapter, ordered a few small parts i needed is about all.

    Dropped more stuff off to Flockies Chassis Shop. Some of the projects the maestro is tinkering away on:
    nSKlwVI.jpg
    UCLAD7B.jpg

    Not much room at the moment but with luck he will have some of the projects cleared soon and the Hudson chassis etc on its way.

    • Like 6
  6. Works been flat out this week so haven’t had time to get in the garage much.

    Engine is sitting waiting for me to pull my finger out and hook the trans up to it.
    RVP2HfK.jpg

    And talking of the Trans. Its a 700R4 from Monster Transmissions worked up to handle 650HP & 600ft/lbs torque. Medium firm shift kit. Wasnt happy with the service from Monster trans. Order took 6 weeks to build, test and ship. During that time they didnt answer a single email and only a few Facecrack messages.
    Still it was very well packaged on the crate and looks to be of decent build quality. Time will tell though how it shifts and handles.
    They have discounts every day from 5-20% off with free shipping USA wide along with cash discounts. I was able stack like 3 discounts to get it at a reduced price by just checking back every day for a few weeks.
    Package Link: 700R4 SuperStreet master conversion package.
    Comes with pretty much everything needed to install other than fluids, cross member and driveshaft.
    Kit contains:
    700R4 SS Mega Monster Transmission, rated up to 650hp/600tq
    What’s Inside The Transmission:
    5 PINION FRONT & REAR PLANETARYS
    PRECISION MASTER OVERHAUL KIT
    SUPERIOR HIGH PERFORMANCE REPROGRAMMING SHIFT KIT
    SUPER PUMP
    DIRECT/REVERSE INPUT DRUM
    TURBINE INPUT CLUTCH HOUSING
    MODIFIED SUNSHELL DRIVE GEAR TO INCREASE REAR PLANETARY LUBRICATION
    MODIFIED INPUT SUN GEAR TO INCREASE FORWARD PLANETARY LUBRICATION
    UPDATED/MODIFIED ACCUMULATORS
    RAYBESTOS PRO SERIES KEVLAR BAND
    UPDATED & MODIFIED GOVERNOR w/SPRING KIT & NYLON GEAR
    RECALIBRATED VALVEBODY w/UPDATE TV VALVE ASSEMBLY
    RECALIBRATED VALVE PLATE FOR SHIFT FIRMNESS
    NEW HIGH FLOW FILTER
    NEW LOW/REVERSE HEAVY DUTY SPRAG
    NEW 29 ELEMENT HEAVY DUTY FORWARD INPUT SPRAG
    NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM SERVO

    What’s Included With Conversion Package:
    Performance Torque Converter, your choice from 1650-2500 Stall
    Universal Fillertube with updated Locking Dipstick
    Updated Universal Fit Throttle Cable with metric bolt
    Metric Linkage Nut
    2 Brass Coolant Line Fittings
    Metric Torque Converter Bolts
    Universal Transmission Mount with bolts
    Speedometer Drive & Driven Gears
    Speedometer Housing & Support Bracket
    Speedometer Housing O-Ring
    External Lock-Up Kit
    700R4 Chrome Throttle Cable Bracket
    Hayden Transmission Cooler Kit
    700R4 Universal Dust Cover
    700R4 Stock Depth Chrome Pan

    Unboxed:
    9XIHNXH.jpg
    inWa1Qf.jpg

    Painted up to match the engine:
    CIvsRqm.jpg
    O0TbcDQ.jpg
    5nynklf.jpg
    qg9MxZq.jpg

    Using a trans adapter to mate the old Nailhead bolt pattern to the 700R4. Seems well made but the manufacturer ( Bendtsens ) is a jerk. Total ass hat and i wouldn’t ever go back to him.
    qeFaGq6.jpg

    Once i get down to the shops to get some locktight i will get it all together.
    God i hate those annoying hold ups. already to go but cant find my locktight after ages of searching. frustrating to say the least.

    On a different note the Hudson is away at Flockies kustom chassis hotrod shop.
    Moving the car about is a breeze with the tractor. /Jealous.
    vhnZOA1.jpg

    His boy is following close in dads footsteps it seems. Even though he is young he is out there helping wrenching along side his dad learning the skills. Till he gets to an age to use the welder seriously he is stuck with cardboard and making some serious customs and hotrod models from scratch. Kid has some great ideas and sure likes to chat about them to any who will listen.

    Exciting times i tells ya. just wish i had more time to tinker.

    • Like 8
  7. any one have any ideas for a paint scheme for the old car.

     

    We have been throwing ideas about for the last months.

    will have a different grill, frenched lights, shaved handles, nosed, tidied up rare etc etc etc.

    Satin Black with pin stripping was our first thought.

    then we thought maybe dark red or purple.

    then white with tinted windows and maybe light pin striping.

     

    not really into two tone.

     

    here is a few pics of the Crudson and our 52 Buick together to help with paint ideas for the Hudson.

    50nkn5em.5fd.jpg

     

    1s0c114w.kin.jpg

    2j1onqya.gjq.png

     

    Not into bright colours.

    Advice and ideas!

     

    Once the color is sorted we can start thinking interior colour.

    Alex

    • Like 1
  8. Well it seems i have swapped clouds of dirt & dust for paint spray mist and vapors. Really need to upgrade my mask i think. Still a happy trade i must admit – was getting sick of the dirt, oil n rat shit.

    Before i get ahead of myself i should do a quick splat on whats what regarding the new heart of the beast.

    1965 Buick 401 or as most affectionatly know them by a “Nailhead”
    Came out of an Electra or Wildcat i think.
    Sonic tested prior to any work being done.

    Had huge issues finding one that was in decent shape here in New Zealand – ones i did find hadn’t been turned over for 15 – 25 years or had been in parts for about the same amount of time.

    Price to get one of these old things back in shape soon made me look to the states. I could get one already tested, worked and landed here in NZ for cheaper. Now i use to run an online business and brought most of my products in from the states so already had my customs client codes and was familiar with the process etc. So naturally i tracked down a good builder with a reputation to suit and went from there.

    And the work done by Dual Quad Dave reads as:
    1965 Buick 401 core
    Bored .060 over to 413
    Decked .020 to compensate for modern head gaskets(original gaskets were .017 thick, new ones are .045 thick. You lose .5 point of compression if you do not cut the deck to compensate)
    New cast pistons
    New Hastings moly rings
    Balanced
    Rods resized w/ ARP rod bolts
    Crank turned .010/.010 and polished
    Oil galley plugs converted to screw in(factory are press-in)
    New Melling oil pump
    New Melling cam/lifters
    New Melling valve springs
    Heads rebuilt w/ new valves, new iron guides, cut for Teflon oil seals(factory had no oil seals), milled .010 to ensure excellent seal
    New freeze plugs
    Updated to modern silicon front/rear oil seals
    Good used timing cover
    New timing chain
    New water pump
    Included pulleys& alt/ps brackets.
    Included stock exhaust manifolds
    Stock Power steering pump.
    New Powermaster 1wire alt.
    Stage 1 porting.
    Polished chambers.
    cleaned up castings.
    Adjustable pushrods.
    Stock 4brl Intake
    Media blast & prime.
    think thats about it. no doubt i missed stuff. I will blame the multi coloured paint boggers clogging up my brain. Dave who built up the donk was great. Gave lots of performance options and stages. Answered all my questions well and gave options. Gave free shipping to the docks. Inspected everything – found a small crack on one manifold after sandblasting so popped on another but didnt have time to blast that. Sent another box of stuff separate to NZ.

    Now i know what you are thinking… Cam.

    Its on the list to down the track. The nailheads came out with for the day a rather aggressive cam – today i guess it would be classed as mild but still decent. First i want to drive it and hear it. if i want a more lumpy cam then no problems. if im happy with it but would like a different tone to the sound then i will fiddle with the exhaust.

    Also another large factor was the porting. Nailheads main issue is breathing. Heck its why they are called nailheads as the valves are like nailheads. I could pick a cam up easy enough but to get porting done by someone who is experienced on the old motor here in NZ would be harder. So put my cash towards porting. Should help it breath a lil better.

    Power wont be an issue no matter what cam i use. The old Nailheads are known for torque. heck Buick use to lable the engines by the torque rateing not HP and they listed some impressive numbers from the factory floor.

    Currently its sitting about 360-370HP and 475-485lbs add another 20HP with the Eelco 2×4 intake when it arrives then another 20-30hp from headers i should be up around 400HP or 1HP per cube. Obviously a cam will push these higher if I feel I need more power.

    Some pics of the engine:
    8qhlfAs.jpg
    dkXDriA.jpg
    blFz5l0.jpg
    hVBJhuj.jpg
    7agltpN.jpg
    zowLFpp.jpg
    tmrzAMa.jpg
    ah3BVDF.jpg
    tHmztlB.jpg

    As you can see the old Nailheads are semi hemi.

    and loaded up in the states:
    v0ZUAwn.jpg
    vRMoNfl.jpg

    Yesterday we masked it up, took off the intake and exhaust manifolds etc.

    gave it a bit of a sand and another prime then sprayed it Gloss Black.

    Still unsure what color we will paint the car whats been a big issue. Originally satin black with pinstriping, then dark red or purple, then white with tinted windows. Already have a matte Black car. White looks good next to it but still unsure. Ideas?

    Anyway we figured black goes with anything and would look good with the finned accessories etc.

    Engine will be out again once we have done the mock ups. when we strip it down and do the panel n paint. So if needs be can repaint it again then.

    Will get some pics of the engine latter in its current black state.

    Im off to chase up my new intake then watch some custom car shows online.

    post ideas for paint!

    ohh and post some good hotrod, custom etc car shows.
    like Fast n Loud, Counting Cars, RoadKill, Full Custom Garage TV etc

    • Like 8
  9. If you decide to go to the jag IFS there is a complete going car here in Wellington its low mileage with rego on hold you could have for 200.00 perhaps 100.00 either take the whole car or strip out every thing you want or could sell off .im sure my mate wouldn't mind you using his yard to disembowel it and load it on to trailer with his digger

     

    Hey thanks for the offer. May of taken you up on it a few months back but i already have my front end sorted. Rods by Reids LoRide3. Power steering, ridetechs Shockwave airbags & 6 piston wilwood. Zero bump steer etc made to my specs.

  10. A client said to me “got to make Hay whilst the sun is shinning” the other day.
    Fek the hay give me a wrench and a cool bourbon i thought and promptly went home to rip into the Crudson.

    With a tag team effort my better half and I removed the front panels.

    Was told when we brought the car it was brought into NZ by a farmer. Im guessing he lived on a gravel road by the accumulation of dirt and stones inside the body and rails. Said dirt would rain down into the hair and down the back of the neck as you try to unseize old bolts under those big ol guards.

    The amount of dried old gorse was a tad unsettling and made me wonder what the fek he actually used the car for. Visions of drunken paddock missions chasing sheep and running over fields of gorse flickered through my mind as i plucked the thorns from my hands.
    noXMJeH.jpg
    8v4XIRE.jpg
    DvXCLPU.jpg

    The patch of rust up the front looks easy. Cut off, form up a new bit of metal and weld back in jobbie. that whole lower panel under the doors unbolts and is currently full of dirt and stones. i think by the end of emptying the car of road dirt n gravel I will have enough to build the small wall out the front like i have been wanting to do for the last few years. Should also lighten the car by a bit as well i would imagine.

    The missus also did some fine devastation to the old brake lines, some wiring and god knows what was ripped out. Most amusing & I wouldn’t have it any other way.

    about ready i to get Flockie involved.

    Will be casting my eye over the engine and trans next. painted up and put together so we can work out placement etc

    more on that latter.

     

    • Like 8
  11. Please tell me you're not gonna fuck up that cool dash... :)

     

    Not sure what we will do dash wise yet.

     

    Im a tad underwhelmed by it to tell the truth.

    Could be that im so used to our 52 Buicks dash thats full of chrome.

    One thing i like is the Hudson has a glove box on both sides. One the drivers one is  behind the wheel on the dash.

    Still.. i have seen 1920s and thirties stock Dashboards with more impact than the hudson.

    If we do change it out it would be something from the 40s or 50s i would imagine.

     

    Open to ideas and suggestions.

     

    Alex

  12. have been asked via PM a few times about my choice of front ends etc and thought i would quickly post a quick rant on it.

    So yes. For its day 70 odd years ago the old Hudson had state of the art suspension that helped the Hornets win so many NASCAR races over so many years back when it was done on dirt tracks.

    I had seriously thought about keeping it and reconditioning what i had then updating it with disk brakes, larger sway bar and power steering.
    The center point steering coupled in with issues installing airbags, decent brakes, finding a PS system and then clearances with the nailhead soon turned me off.
    If i was going to spend alot of wedge i would rather get an updated system.

    Looked in to Jag IFS – similar weight cars. still would need rebuild and would need change up the rails due to the old unibody chassie.

    So i would have to cut up the front end rails no matter what i would fit in. Looking about I saw Fatmans Fab did a full front clip. weld in jobbie that had all the holes in place for panels, rad etc etc.
    Problem was they seem to fail NZ cert so much. My local Certifier wasnt keen so no point wasting the time and effort bring one in from the states.
    Also note Fatmans no longer sells to NZ or Aus due to our vehicle regulations and they dont meet the standards. So if you are after some junk from them then send it to a freight forwarder state side.

    So started looking closer to home. Holdens HQ- HZ looked like a good option. Started searching for a HZ as they had slightly better suspension (RTS) compared to HQ. A wrecker i have alot of time for told me he new of a HZ 1 tonner with PS up for grabs. Excellent i think. problem solved. Take it away and unload it. Then on close inspection i notice the front suspension dosnt look right. turns out it was a HQ ute. Took it back and started looking again.
    Soon found out they can be a bitch to bag and shockwaves just wont fit in them as they are to wide (6.5inch wide). weight wise the front clip may not handle the job either.
    Cross off Holdens and mutter a few choice words.

    Now by this time I had been trying to figure out the front end for near on two or three months and was starting to get a tad pissed at my seemingly lack of any solid progress and constant setbacks.

    hmm i should also mention one bright side I had. That coming in a package of a Hotrod builder and ticketed welder with decades of experience on a huge range of cars. Better yet it was the certifier who recommended him(anything he says i do pretty much as he is god in the end).
    Wayne Flockton hence forth and forever more dubbed “Flockie”. He has had cars featured in a number of magazines including Hotrod. His shed is a vehicular wonderland of awesome. Chassis in various stages with all kinds of parts grafted on to them. Airbags, Engines, custom grilles all sit amongst pickups and hotrods that he is building for people and himself.
    Options, ideas, suggestions and everything happily supplied.
    One being Rods by Reid. A NZ hotrod shop ran by John Reid. Making NZs only pre approved for cert front end. Also a life time honorary member and top ranked man in NZ cert crowd. Also had many mag cars along with winning rides at a number of yank events like Goodguys.

    So after talking to him i settle on the LO-RIDE 3 with wilwood & bags made to my ride height, weight, width etc
    BIqvUIt.jpg
    http://www.rodsbyreid.co.nz/front_suspension.html

    Flockie will be cutting off the old hudson front clip and welding in a new one with the above setup.
    Exciting times.

    God I hope thats the end of the nightmare the front ends been. But I have a sinking suspicion that was the easy bit and the real hard stuff is only about to begin. ><

    Anyone here used a Rods by Reid IFS?

    • Like 3
  13. Well haven’t updated this for some time. Yet on that note i haven’t done much to the car really until now.

    Up until this point I got it going on its old motor, gave it a bit of a drive about. took a few vids for proof that it moves & stops under its own power etc for when i would sell the heart of the old beast.

    And affectionately dubbed the car “Crudson” due to its ratty & oily crud smell.

    Well i guess that wasn’t the full extent of my endeavors to date. I have gone and spent a fair bit of wedge on the mechanical side of things. Raiding the cosmetic budget (paint n panel, interior etc) to get the car setup solidly underneath where no one will likely ever see. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

    Said parts have enjoyed a lovely cruise on a ship around the world from the states to New Zealand then been fumigated & inspected by NZ customs and finally released for pickup tomorrow. Will do a few pics etc of whats to go in the car and my experience with the vendors once i have the goodies here and inspected. I will say Kiwi Shipping who freight forwarded nearly a tonne of parts to me was great to deal with and would go back to them any day. The shipping part (not customs etc) was only $665NZ($470USD) what i thought was bloody good seeing it had to go half way around the world & that i normally pay half that per order from Summit etc

    Happy as this certainly made me i suddenly realized i hadn’t even started pulling the car to pieces to slip in my new found treasures.

    There is a certain joy in the freedom of not giving a fek about the parts you rip out of a car. Often for me its “ohhh i should keep this just in case…”. But seeing everything under the car etc will be replaced i haven’t had those moments and i have had great fun ripping everything out. Few choice words have been spoken yet a fair many beverages consumed to date.

    Making it better my Better half has been right besides me the whole time learning whats what and how a car goes together hands on. Got to love a girl who not only loves lipstick n heels but also lets me store parts in the spare bedroom.

    So im rambling. Heres the progress made today with various tools of destruction.

    – started with screw drivers & sockets but soon progressed to wire cutters followed by a hammer or two then for the finale saws etc.

    Shrunken Head was one of the first to go but he will be back.
    xPoN1Hb.jpg

    Hood off and ready for destruction!

    YwUtC13.jpg

    Electricals, Rad, Bumpers, Lights and other junk out ready to unbolt the anemic inline.

    SPWnEA2.jpg

    One thing i like about these old Hudsons is the large Engine/Trans/Drive shaft access panel. Lift the carpets and unscrew a dozen bolts on the front floor gains you easy access with no need to raise the car.

    wFFAWdJ.jpg

    Engine unbolted and ready to go.

    FK7gD8n.jpg

    Tell ya engine levelers are great if you dont have one get one!

    KZ2sRF9.jpg

    Garage Kitty El Spokecamino (so named due to his ripped up ears and he can be a mean lil b@$#ard) supervised under Kreeps our 52 Buick for most of the time.

    6oooseM.jpg

     

    • Like 5
  14. havnt been on here for a bit.

     

    Finally finished my planing stage and most of the buying stage.

     

    I have or due to arrive by the months end:


    • Worked 401 Nailhead (413 now, ported, polished, bored etc etc) Should make about 1HP per cube.
    • Worked 700R4 Trans rated to 650HP along with cooler and install kit
    • Trans adapter
    • Elco 2x4 Intake.
    • 2x edelbrock 600 carbs and linkages.
    • Engine dress up stuff. 
    • Moser custom made 9inch rear end.
    • 12' Wilwood 4 piston rear, 12.8' 6 piston front.
    • American autowire highway 22 wiring kit
    • Ridetech digital 5 gallon airpod with 8000series HQ shockwaves rear and 1000 series HQ shockwaves front.
    • Ridetech trianglated 4 link.
    • Rods by Reid Lo3 front suspension with power steering. made for my car weight & ride height.
    So most of the stuff to really start the project is nearly here.


    Still need things like radiator, battery, drivesharft, steering column, lines & hoses, ignition system, exhaust etc

     

    but some of that i cant get until its all in the car and/or isnt hard to pickup anyway.

     

    Couldn't use the Fatmans front clip. wont pass NZ certification regulations on many points. So have gone for a more expensive option but way way better.

     

    Alex

  15. So got the old beast going today and went for a drive. handling is horrible but that was expected lol.

     
    Vid showing it running.
    Smoky as its exhaust pipe is only like 3 feet long and in the middle has a big hole.
    0.jpg
     
    And a walk around the old Hudson. orgional colour was Blue. someone painted it mid 60s. a bit of surface rust but on the whole its in pretty good condition.
    0.jpg
     
    So the engine and everything under the hood will be up for sale soon once i rip it on out. Heck pretty much everything under the car will be for sale.
     
    Any restoration guys after parts let me know i guess.
     
    Alex
    • Like 3
  16. Seems Fatmans build quality often dosnt make the mark for NZ certifiers. check out pages 5 & 6 here for more info. you will soon get an idea of how hard they scrutinize the workmanship to let it be legal to drive on NZ roads. The process is hard but it has our safty at heart. Made by hor rodders for hot rodders. 

    It aint a No you cant use Fatmans but they will test the crap out of it.

     

    Still ordering bits. Just ordered an Eelco 2x4 nailhead intake. plan to pop a few Edelbrock 600cfb carbs ontop of it.

    Also have ordered in all the window channeling, seals and rubbers i need. Those things sure do add up when you are looking at a whole car worth. Figured since i plan to take front, back and side windows out when i blast it i should do em all.

    New Heater unit and few little nick nacks are on the way like cigar lighter and a ashtray fro rear left door. Seems at some point the old owners ripped out the heater and put in a  British smaller one made by Smiths for MGs( googling i think it was from a MG TD TF 1500 model). Sill works fine so will be up for sale for anyone who is after an old Brit heater unit.

     

    but ye stuck on front suspension at the moment. 


    • Risk Fatmans. Huge price tag and then i may need pay even more to get it fixed.
    • Redo the Hudsons setup with disk brakes, air bags, thicker swaybar etc. no Power steering for the better half. And risk clearance issues with the center point steering and engine.
    • Jag. Throwing something thats near 40 years old under the car. ye works but may need rebuild what would add up..

    need options and advice. 

     

    Looking at my suspension im thinking its going to need rebuilt if i do keep the original hudson setup. Its why im leaning towards a new weld in or bolt in setup.

     

    On bright side im hopeing to pick up the waterpump tomorrow. And then fingers crossed i will be able drive around the block. Remember exhaust ends about 3 feet from the engine and being right hand drive dumps drivers side. no carpets. could get smoky so cant do big drive.

     

    Alex

  17. So planning of my build is still ticking away. 

    Although i have started ordering the easy bits like all the rubbers, seals, window channels etc
     
    Since the old water pump is still getting fixed im flushing the clutch slowly. rotating it every day as it sits with kerosen. with luck it will free the clutch if its stuck (not sure that it is but will soon find out) have ATF to pop in when im ready.
     
    As for the planning of the build.
    Decided i want Power steering to make the missus happy and to make life and the ride that lil more enjoyably.
    Also have decided that since i want to lower it and also want disk brakes all around that I will just buy a Fatmans Sub. Get a RH Power rack, sway bar & setup for Air bags.
     
    as for whats happening out the back.
    im thinking Moser 9inch houseing & axle package along with a ford 9inch.
    or maybe a currie setup.
    ideas, suggestions from any who have used would be great.
    also confirmation on length. 49 Hudson rear is 55inch?
     
    Then im looking at RideTechs triangulated 4Link rear with bags.
     
    Has anyone used this? Being such a well known brand im taking the build quality and weight is good? will be fine for a hudson? 
     
     
    with these changes to front and rear popping on Wilwood will be no issue. Would like a break booster but unsure of placement/room issues with the 401 thats already taking up space with PS, Alt and god knows what.
    Unsure as yet about drive shaft. guess i will have to get everything in to figure that out.
     
    Trans will be Monster Transmisions 700R4 conversion package.  rated up to 600hp. Nailhead will only be 400ish. comes with all the extras I will need other than adapter.
     
    Radiator advice?
     
    Also going to start a new thread asking people to post pictures of there interiors so i can get ideas.
     
    So ya. advice please! Its going to be an expensive build and need as much advise as possible.
  18. Forgot to add:

    Got it home & got the trunk welded up.
    fHiOImw.jpg

    Hooked up the gas tank.

    Put the brake system back together.

    Changed the oil, plugs and battery.

    Suck through some gas and spat the left overs into the carb. Took a mighty sip of my favorite brew- just to wash out my mouth honest.

    Turned the key.  Started right up!!!

    Soon noticed the exhaust pipe ended a few feet from the headers. Hard to miss once its turned on. Not that concerned as its all coming out anyway.

    Turned it off after 10 seconds or so due to no water pump but feeling confident that once i get the pump the old thing might move under its own power. Have read about the clutches can get stuck after long periods of not being used so might have to check that to i guess. Looking at the concoctions people list for Hudson clutch fluid makes me think of some demented witches brew.

    Then its just get a vid of it turned on and if possible moving and stopping under its own power.

    then rip it all out and flick it off to the restoration guys
    3yH9GE2.jpg
    jwBsnP8.jpg

     

    • Like 2
  19. When in doubt - matte black it!

     

    but no seriously i often go black to start on a car. Work a panel. rattle can it. this way you can work at your own speed and budget. still drive the car. then once you have done the panels and got the cash worry about a nice shiny paint job. 

    this way helps keep the price down and keeps you on the road and enjoying your project.

     

    Alex

  20. My old Buick i removed the cherry bombs. Now run straight pipes. Sounds way better and gets a warrant. The guys at the shop figure thats how they came originally back in 1952 so dont need them - just like it dosnt need seat belts.

     

    Seen exhaust splitters on TradeMe. like the idea for my new 49 project. these legal in NZ? Like the idea of having both exhaust with mufflers out the back and when i want  to be louder  out the side pipes with no mufflers. Just seems like something that wont be legal even though its on TM

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