Get it done

I’m a fan of amaroks, but there just priced to high for for managers etc getting to and from sites.

feild days are good but with a fleet like ours it’s a big outlay to pay cash for.

to attract good staff you need to be able to supply a good vechile etc, nobody moves for a couple of bucks an hr anymore .

Sorry should have said all mine will be unmaintained.

i recon they are try trying to push the mitsi and navara so the don’t flood the market with ranger and hylux at the same time come end of lease selling .

anyone got a new mistis triton?

So I have about 50 utes at the moment ranging from wildrak, dmax, hylux ,navara,ranger etc.

want to expand without constricted cash flow so lease is the next best option.

ive had quotes from custom fleet , orix and Toyota , mitsi, Nissan etc.

now the general consensus seems to be buy mitsi triton due to super cheap rates (almost half Toyota or Ford)

but im told by insiders that they will spend more time in shop than out , yet I have a friend who has the lastest model and bloody loves it.

aparenrly they do a lot of recalls at service time without telling the customers , I recently found this out with Toyota.

anyone have any insight to this ?

im looking at 30k to 40k per year 

3-4yrs contract with possibility of buy back after.

only options needed are cover, tow bar , beacon And floor mats.

so preferences from you guys please .

 Thanks 

Not  Ali but a lot of truck drivers use coke on a rag as a cheap tyre shine.

Old trailer screw compressors are a viable option imo.

they usually rust the trailer body rather quickly compared to the unit hours.

so you may end up with a low houred  unit with a rusted chassis for minimal outlay . I did this and scored a unit with 400 hrs for 700 bucks. Keep it for about 8 yrs then put it back on home built traile and sold for 7 k , then bought a cabinet screw compressor just for the quietness.

a screw should be your end goal , once you screw there’s no going back.

With a blaster you need volume along with pressure , the less of both you have will result in more media being used with less of a result .

ive used the set up your looking to use and trust me It won’t work as you will expect.

i would recommend maybe looking into a hydro setup off a grunty water blaster to use for home blasting , less dust etc and set up costs are reduced , you can also use a water blaster for a hell of a lot more after the job is done.

also less heat is generated so it equals less chance of warping .

my two cents.

Dry air an lots of it ,a screw compressor is a must.

a lot of people over look the dryness of the media which will cause blockages and freezing up of the intake .

thats the beauty of a screw compressor , you will have a lot less water through out the system.

you can hire screw compressors from lots of places that do fibre UFB .

just temp them with beer

Auto dispatch and auto movements are the same company , auto dispatch are about a 1/3 cheaper but I’ve had stuff removed from the car and unwilling to pay costs. Remember limited liability carrying costs only cover $1000 . I’d recommend getting private insurance for the relocation of the vechile  if there’s stuff of value that is easily removed .

I have seen Simalar results to the timing  of airbag faults in the past, a common alternative was to connect the wiring to the oil pressure this signaling the light to go out after a pre determined time .not ideal !

From memory the range rover ones are fomoco items found on the jag also .

They tend to be unreliable due to water entering electronic parts.

Could this be caused by the metal still holding moisture?

Warming the metal before applying it , in a bake oven or something similar to dry it out thoroughly would help surely?

You need the factory provided service tool.

Chase exausts , or wurth do a range also. 

6.6ltr per 100 km not bad for city driving?

Considering the higher kms 

A good trick is to adjust the shoes , then pump brake pedal and adjust all over again to centralise the shoe.

The smaller the drum generally the smaller the notches on the adjuster , so a couple of clicks out can mean heaps of imbalance.

Standing the glazing off the drum with emery tape by hand can also help bed the new shoes. 

If you require an extra set if hands or some help in general to get it done in time let me know

Also i think cm trailers do a direct replacement, could be wrong though.

Disks are available last time I checked, single piece hub and disk.

Heat dissipation from disk to hub is what stuffs the bearings, be sure to put a bead of sealant around the dust cap too as it will pull the moisture in from this side first turning the grease milky.

Pretty sure mk2 has  the rib lines on the top.

Got a pic?

Cobalt is the go ! Good drill selection and speed should limit sharpening .

A home made scratch guage and a bench grinder is all that is needed, be carefully to select the correct stone grit , a fine one for small bits and a coarser for larger bits .

A cup of water can help with heating of drill edge , make sure bit doesn't blue or it won't hold a edge .

1 hour ago, Mr Vapour said:

I'm going to look at a truck this weekend. 4.4 ton load capacity. 

But not tail lift and only has a 750kg in braked tow bar. Will a 2.5 ton tow bar need to be a certified unit? 

Yes, do you have a pic of the loading cert?

Does the blast unit need to be on the ground for loading of media etc?

You can get a class 2  truck and put it on a class 1 label , that way you can spread the load between truck and trailer more evenly .

The gvm( gross vechile mass) rating will be lower but so long as the gcm (gross combined mass) is under the limit you will be okay.

I have never changed the rating on a second hand vechile but have done plenty on new hino trucks,

This is how a lot of traffic management trucks are set up so the they can still employ temps with a class 1.

The limits they set are for a therorical loads so the rucs will be cheaper too.

I would suggest weighing all the gear you will be carrying so you can work out a loading plan so you don't overload front axle etc and then see what options are available. 

Always look at load ratings and occupant numbers on loading cert , easy to get caught out some say 2 occupants but have 3 seats, all Good till a incident then they do you for overloading.

Also a class 1 will be cheaper to use in weekend, going to look at jobs etc. 

My 2 cents