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Everything posted by Rhubarb77

  1. I would not recommend this transmission mount, poor fit onto the gearbox extension housing (I needed to cut the tops off both mounts and weld the old top plate onto this one) and so much noise and vibration through the car so I put a standard mount back in, much better The ignition leads have been replaced after it was found they were causing a misfire on hi boost only. And I've finally sealed up some minor but annoying leaks from the thermostat housing and rocker cover using better products. Loctite 515 on the thermostat housing gasket and ThreeBond super sealer on the rocker gasket. It's a 2L rocker cover on a 1.6 head I don't know if that's why it's always leaked in the past?? The rebuilt gearbox is back in and the car shifts much nicer now especially with the Redline oil in it.
  2. Another cruise session at Lakeside a few weeks ago and unfortunately the gearbox failed. It was not catastrophic so I was able to drive the car home 10 mins from the track. I used the dropped crossmember method to remove the gearbox which worked really well. It's been shipped interstate for a rebuild and I was told on Friday that the gears are all good but bearings are shot. Heavy duty needle roller bearings will be fitted as part of the rebuild. I'll be using Redline MT90 oil this time and have sourced a heavy duty transmission mount keep things supported a bit better. Thanks
  3. Back to the dyno today after sorting the fuel system. Made 355whp @26psi. It's safe to say an 11sec pass is coming up
  4. From the very beginning my Bosch 044 pump suffered from cavitation. Sounds like glass beads getting smashed up inside the pump. Well when the fuel pressure fell over on the dyno and it was time to go twin pumps, I emailed GRP4, the tank manufacturer and asked them if the -8AN outlet would flow enough to support two pumps. He was good enough to be honest with me and explain the the pick up pipe inside the tank has a kink in it and would reduce flow. I had no idea it would be this bad! Needless to say this was causing massive flow issues and is a testament to the durability of the mighty Bosch 044 pump. After careful planning and acquiring all the parts to complete the job, I took the tank to Drew at ARE Cooling in Brendale where he cut side of tank open, welded on a -12AN outlet and 1" pick up pipe. -4AN fittings where the fuel sight gauge used to be and tidied up the welds where my fuel sender goes in. The car is back running and the pump is actually QUIET! I will get the second one wired up soon, the ECU will switch it based on manifold pressure, as a guess it will come on around 18psi.
  5. So I got the car out to the drags last week and was stoked to run a 12.4. The mph is the same as previous outings which is no surprise with hp being the same. But the better spool and take offs gained me 3 tenths of a second. Still pretty lazy 0-60ft so I'm thinking of getting some M&H 22" 8" 13" drag slicks and having a decent go after the next and final tune. I also ran in the Forced Ford Forum cruise last weekend at Lakeside All Aussie Day. Here's a link to a youtube vid from the guys in 51OBA. Enjoy
  6. Dyno happened just over a week ago. I lost around 8hp from the weight of the new tailshaft haha. So after optimising the E85 tune with the new GTX turbo we got it back up to 300whp with the same boost pressure 20psi. Pushing beyond that the car began to lose fuel pressure so the boost is fixed at 20psi until I fit another Bosch 044 to make a twin pump set up. But looking at the results from when we pushed past 20psi, I will be lucky to get another 20whp out of it. Any more than that will require a bigger turbine wheel from the likes of a GT3071R which is an option even with the limited space available. The compact T04B compressor cover from a GT2871R can be used on the GT3071R (they have the same compressor wheel) and there's a T2 flanged Mamba turbine housing with Vband outlet that suits the full size 60mm 84trim turbine. I'm trying to resist the urge to go bigger. There would be some down sides- Traction problems, I'd have to ditch my 13x7 miniltes and AO48 semi slicks, then change diff gears again to suit 15" tyres. Boost coming on 1000rpm later in the revs. And of course the cost of doing it all
  7. Another night at Test n Tune to try out my new 3.45 diff gears. Long story short, I geared it too tall by running 205 tyres. Couldn't get it off the line very well and being frustrated with ordinary times, gave it a bit too much on my 3rd attempt and got terrible tramp which snapped my universal joint on the tailshaft Everyone was so chilled about it but I felt terrible holding up the night for everyone racing. I can't say I wasn't warned about these uni's. They're hollow not solid. Hopefully the shaft can be balanced, it did sustain a bit of damage from the accident. My diff builder recommended getting a XR-XF falcon tailshaft which he can modify to suit so I've lined one up already from an XF sedan. Believe it or not I've had GRP4 tramp bar (radius rods) brackets tacked to the underside of my car since I've had it on the road. It's about time I finished the job and put the bars in. Next time at the track should be a winner with 185's, a strong tailshaft and tramp rods installed!
  8. Turns out the turbo was in bad shape. Upon inspection it had noisy bearings and a chipped turbine fin so it was mailed back to the seller and I got a full refund (paid by paypal). On Saturday the diff gears were changed to 3.45 and I did a cruise session the following day. The new gears are an improvement. Speedo now accurate too
  9. Hi guys. It's been a while since last post. The car has been performing great and I'm still getting out an about in it, mostly on weekends. There's always something on at the local track every couple of months. I really wanted to get back onto the forum after growing somewhat tired of facebook and all the crap it can add to this hobby. Anyway... as far as developing the car. I have learned that gearbox ratios are very important. The W58 I have is quite low in first and second gear and a bit of a gap to third. Typical of road ratios. Well, a 600hp XR6T i've not been able to beat at roll racing finally fell behind me the last time out because I rolled on in 3rd instead of 2nd. 3rd has much longer legs and I didn't lose the speed changing from 2nd to third. So I looked into close ratio gear sets for the W58 and turns out they are available. At a cost of around $4500. Needless to say, the CR gearbox can wait. But gee it would make a difference. Also, the temptation to add more power has gotten the better of me. I have bought a used HKS GT2835R-56T , it's a Garrett GT3071R with a back cut rear wheel so it fits in the T25 exhaust housing. Compressor wheel will go from 47mm-60mm 62 trim, to 53.1mm-71mm 56 trim and more importantly the turbine, from 54mm-47mm 76 trim to 56mm-53mm 90 trim. I'm aiming to add around 30 or 40hp so 330~340hp at the wheels. My current GT2860RS is pretty much out of puff @ 300whp. At first I was going to fit a 67mm GTX billet wheel, effectively turning it into a GTX 2867R. It could probably make that extra power but nowhere near as efficiently as the GT2835R-56T. The larger turbine is where the benefits will come from. A larger set of Siemens Deka injectors will also be fitted. Jumping from 60lb (630cc) to 80lb (840cc) I took it to the drags a few months ago and it went 12.75 @ 113 mph (2sec 60ft) . Hoping with the new turbo and tune to crack into high 11's. If not I will just live with it because any more power will result in problems like gearbox failure, clutch failure, cracked block etc etc. So here's a pic of the car launching when I ran the 12 with 205 60 13 rear tyres. I was only able to achieve low 13's with 185 60 13 tyres, as soon as the 205's went on it was into the 12's. I might put in some 3.45 diff gears with the 185 tyres which would work out about the same as 205's and 3.9. Cheers
  10. We made it same width as the escort diff 1350mm
  11. Definitely jump on that R31 axle that's a great price. Just be sure it's from a Skyline and not a Pintara. The Skyline is 28 spline and 3.89 gears and Pintara only 25 spline with 4.11 gears. The Pintara gears can be used in the Skyline diff though. The way my diff was done was to use the shorter half shaft as is and use it on the other side then shorten and respline the longer shaft. Then shorten housing and weld on the escort brackets etc. The hubs and rotors were redrilled to 4x108 PCD
  12. I've also grafted some fibreglass RS500 Sierra vents into a spare bonnet. It turned out pretty good and should help a bit with under bonnet temps. Still needs to be painted
  13. The car has been getting plenty of use and lots of compliments. Very happy with it. There were a few issues to sort out after some road testing. Oil pressure was low at idle because the engine builder used a cross drilled camshaft. Normally this wouldn't be a problem but I also had a YB Cosworth under piston squirter bar (piston coolers) and camshaft spray bar in the circuit which was too much for the standard pump. So he deleted the piston coolers and installed a Burtonpower high volume oil pump. Unfortunately the piston cooler assy doesn't fit a HV pinto pump and they don't make a HV pump for YB cosworth so the coolers had to go. Idle pressure then went from 8psi to 40psi. The engine builder said motor will be fine without the coolers if I keep it on E85.. I would have preferred a solid camshaft and piston coolers to be honest. Also some small changes to the exhaust system with a bracket off the bellhousing to brace the dump pipe and a flexi join after it. I also ran a 1/4mile on Friday night and was disappointed with 13.3 but it was at 111mph so it has an easy 12 in it. Just got to get out of the hole a bit faster and will also gear the car slightly higher with bigger tyres
  14. So this happened yesterday There's still a bit more power to come after we swap the pump out. Turns out my Bosch 044 from ebay is a fake. New pump will keep the pressure at 58psi and hopefully see close to that magic 300hp mark
  15. All good thanks. It pays to point these things out just in case. I did the same for a guy on FB a week ago, he would have run them the wrong way if I hadn't of mentioned it. Running those blades backwards is not good at all, I imagine it wouldn't be good for brakes either
  16. Same principal as a turbo blade. Observe the direction
  17. Final spec on the motor was Standard bore 2.0L pinto block YB cosworth rods & pistons Ported, big valve 1600 Pinto head (9.1:1CR) MLS head gasket & ARP bolts throughout Custom turbo grind camshaft, HD valve springs, Newman long pad followers YB under piston oil squirters, high volume oil pump & Peterson oil pressure relief valve Custom Go Pipes steam pipe manifold & 3" dump, ceramic coated 3" mandrel bent exhaust GT2860RS turbo Turbosmart 38mm external wastegate, FPR800 and Kompact bypass/BOV Romac harmonic balancer & custom trigger wheel Modified (1 tooth) YB distributor with phase sensor Sierra EFI manifold with 630cc Siemens injectors LS1 coil packs Haltech PS1000 ECU Haltech wideband controller
  18. The end is in sight. I've got the handbrake & throttle cables in at a Control Connections being modified. Car is booked for mid October to get custom wiring done. In the meantime I have a bolt in steel half cage to fit. It came from a 4 door so the rear legs need shortening. Then after it's wired, will get it tuned and on the road
  19. I had some custom pipes which were copied from my engine builders race car. Tony Law and Steve Simpson pipes from the UK are very good