Lord Gruntfuttock

Do they call them a harness in the states? I'm sure there's an off the shelf one for that model available somewhere. Would be a faff but prob easier in the long run...

Plus check it doesn't smell bad...

Yep mate's got one...

That is one of the coolest tank shapes ever...

How does it sound...?

pointless sharn.
got a mate who was doing an older BMW cafe racer. He designed a beaut looking tailpiece, painstakingly made reverse molds etc, and glassed up the new piece. Something went wrong with the release wax though and the whole thing was permanently stuck together. Think he gave up...

No idea. Old farm truck...?

So been dicking around for ages trying to get the starter motor working. Everything checked out ok, tested new solenoid, tested motor, tried old solenoid, tried new one again, each time having to shift oil lines, tank and wiring to get things in and out. It's been a cunt really... 

Solenoid works like this (simplified circuit)... 
Start button energises the pull-in coil, with current going through starter motor until the main contacts close (which removes voltage across the coil) then the hold-in coil remains energised until the start button/relay is released...

Diagnostics proved everything worked except the starter motor engaging, hard to test as I couldn't just run a wire to eliminate the starter motor as it would become a short circuit if the contacts closed. A 12V lamp worked, and showed I wasn't getting full 12V at the motor terminal, was reduced by volt drop across the coils...

So all pointed to something mechanical preventing full movement of the plunger. Mechanically the Bendix sprocket and lever looked fine, but looking through old pics I realised a roll pin on the plunger had worked itself through the operating arm lever, happened way back somehow and I hadn't noticed as it was under a spring...

Fitted a new 1/8" pin, slightly longer to prevent it happening again...

And works perfectly. 

Except for the electrical gremlins that now seem to have appeared. I have a few things disconnected though so will work through the issues logically...

23 hours ago, Indiana_Jones said:

Could be wrong, but this screams early 90s to me....

Popped the cover to see what is happening in there, had a 3am think that maybe the tension on chain was too tight, or the loose cover meant the bush wasn't supported or something, plus the only change since it used to work was the new clutch spring setup...

Looks like oil is coming through transfer valve into primary, as designed. Not sure if it's too much until things are running...

Supporting the end of the shaft with my hand, I hit the starter button and the ring gear is definitely engaging properly...

So I removed the clutch innards and slackened off the tensioner in case anything was mechanically binding...

And with the case back on, the result was exactly the same, a solid clunk as the solenoid pulled in and ring engaged, but no rotation, even with another battery hooked up... 

Then  I put 12V straight on the starter terminal (another bike battery connected in parallel)...

The starter motor spun freely when not engaged, then when I tried with the starter button in and solenoid engaged, the engine spun over perfectly, which was a relief... 

So there's still an issue but at least I know things do work. Not sure if it's low voltage or a wiring issue, but at least I can put things back together after logically sorting the problem...

Tardy update, had other stuff happening. I popped out to the shed to look at it and noticed it'd dropped all its oil all over the floor. A bit discouraging and bloody messy so I just ignored it for a while...

Wheeled it out yesterday and cleaned up the floor, and tools, and everything else that had been rust-proofed. Checked my oil line connections, drain plugs and oil filter etc, nothing obvious so I assume it leaked out the clutch cover, which was a bit loose, a worry if so as it seems it's still collecting oil...

But a bigger worry is that the starter still isn't operating. The solenoid is banging in with a hearty clunk, but the motor does not spin. I know the starter works as it spins well on the bench, even tried connecting another battery in parallel but same result, so it's not a low voltage issue.
Tried measuring voltage at starter terminal but it goes to zero when trying to start, so measured current, it's drawing a decent 26A DC, so the motor is trying to run...

Can only guess it's mechanically binding somewhere? Kicker spins engine ok, so unsure where to look next. I'll open the primary cover next time I feel enthused enough to look at it...

Oh yeah...

I 'think' they are before legally required? I have the exact same model with farm rego, plates etc, so interested to see how you go...

Think I bought my 32 from Graham...

This a Pug 404? Seemed pretty original...

Interesting. Was aware of the Blue, Silver and Empire Stars, never heard of the Iron. Must be pretty rare.

And the Blue stars have awful clutches too. Single spring that tilts and weird dished plates that are hard to find...

YB32 is a post war Goldie 350?

Got a couple of early 30s Blue Stars, must get one going...

Slept on it as I couldn't face pulling everything out again. This morning I confirmed the battery was fully charged, and tested the solenoid in place by connecting 12V directly to the pull in coil, still nothing, so (sigh) pulled everything out again...

Bench tested the solenoid and it was definitely working OK, both the pull-in and hold coils worked perfectly, better than the old one I tested beside it. I wondered if things were binding as it was on an angle, so fitted the solenoid nut as a spacer, looked much better...

And it seemed to work better. I pulled the starter gear shaft out and ensured the thrust washer was in place, and re-installed everything, with thick washers as well as the factory spacer, it definitely looks better aligned...

I'd removed the primary cover and checked operation, a solid clunk as the gear moved in and out on the starter button, which was a relief. Unfortunately the starter motor didn't spin, it was getting power and spun ok on the bench so not sure what the issue is here, maybe something is binding...?

Carried on with other stuff to make some progress, fitted the chain to help spinning the engine when adjusting the valve clearances, and discovered the new sprocket cover hit it (couldn't even get cover on). Ground out a bit of material for clearance and fitted cover...

So getting there. The starter is a worry but everything works in isolation so must be solvable. also welded up the broken tank mount so another job ticked off. Still got carb to fit, ignition and valves to set, clutch to sort and general fettling, but feels like I'm getting closer...

Had a busy couple of days, adjusted the clutch and it felt slightly better, but still not releasing completely, hopefully it'll shake loose with some oil in it and the engine running...?

Fitted the starter housing and was installing the angled oil tank bracket when the vented bolt snapped off, inside the case. Luckily was an easy extraction as it already had a hole drilled through it...

Debated fitting a solid bolt but it's not an easy thing to replace without pulling lots of gear off again, so decided to make one. Machined a nozzle out of brass...

And brazed it into a drilled bolt...

Fitted it and carried on, bit concerned that the solenoid bolts up on an angle...?

But decided to carry on, it was a stinking hot day so my apprentice found some shade for a snooze, while I got sunburnt... 

Installed all new oil lines, fitted tank, battery tray, battery and connected starter wiring...

And oil was getting to the filter when I kicked it over, thought I was close to cranking it on the starter...

Except nothing happened, apart from a click from the starter relay... 

I see this pile of parts sold recently, so someone else is interested in these things... 

I looked at them today funnily enough. Only while I was shifting shit in the shed.

I laced up the wheels but the spokes are slightly too long so I've got to shorten them a few mm. Think that's where I parked things.

Busy with the ironhead atm, and under orders from kids to get their minibikes going, but still planning to work on these...

Did a little tonight, replaced the clutch nuts with new nylocs (couldn't find the ones I'd bought so got some new ones) just snugged them up against the spacer tubes one at a time...

And fitted the primary cover after cleaning it up and fitting a new gasket, also cleaned up the threads on the clutch cable adjuster...

Gave the clutch a rudimentary squeeze, quite hard at the lever, I did use heavy duty big twin springs in the new clutch spring housing so that may be the difference? Plus there is no oil in it yet, it's not adjusted, and the clutch may need a few operations to loosen up, we'll see how things go...

I had no idea how the engine plates and hardened bite washers went back together, I'd taken photos but there was so much oily road grime I couldn't tell anything from them. Some searching on the XL Forum/Sportsterpedia gave great instructions, so all back together...

And installed/tightened all the rear engine mounts as well...

Cleaned up the starter motor and solenoid plunger, and replaced the rubber boot after knocking out the roll pins to remove the spring...

And loosely installed them with other parts, as will have to shift things around when I run oil lines...

After a slight tickle up with a file, there seems to be enough clearance for the shift arm under the sprocket cover...

Oil lines will be the next issue, the kicker shaft runs right though where I had 3 lines neatly routed previously, behind the sprocket. And yes there is a slight crack on one of the alloy mounts, I've decided to ignore it...

Oil lines will be this weeks mission to sort...

Yay Trekka...