Lord Gruntfuttock

Yeah think there is. I rewired the whole thing, will have to look at diagram. The old harley switches are a known point of failure. 12v straight to starter  solenoid terminal should tell me something.

Wondering now if it's just the battery failing, maybe starter motor draw drops voltage enough for pull-in coil to drop out...

Yeah I was wondering what they're for, currently one side is used for exhaust bracket mounting, I've also seen a factory pillion peg bar that bolts up to a plate on the rear engine mount bolts.

Progress update:
A mixed weekend. Made up new leads (had an MSD clamp former from doing my car) and connected ignition to coil and static timed, used the pencil in spark plug hole method. TDC on front cycinder lines up with dot timing mark, and set ignition to just turn off and locked down as per instructions...

Then it got depressing, thought I'd spin it over on the starter to check spark, and just got a rapid clicking noise. The solenoid was banging rapidly in and out for some reason, annoying as I'd just buttoned everything up and thought I was good to go. Tried jumping from another battery and same result, so I called it quits for the day...

Next morning after a think and a breakfast beer I pulled the clutch cover again as the only thing different was the thrust washer, and I wondered if it was preventing full throw of the solenoid? No difference, so I pulled the rear exhaust to check starter solenoid resistances again, and pulled starter motor to test, all looked good...

Also manually pushed solenoid arm in and out and checked meshing with clutch ring gear, all good as far as I could tell.
Decided to fix the things I could, managed to get heaps of clearance for kicker past rear pipe... 

And I tapped out the positive battery terminal to 8mm, as the 6mm post thread had become worn. Surprisingly on connecting things up again, the starter motor spun the engine freely? Quick test with coil connected and plug held against engine showed excellent spark, so I fitted everything again, plus battery cover, tank and fuel lines. Assumed I'd fixed the issue without finding anything obviously wrong (maybe a bad connection somewhere)...?

Sadly, when trying starter again, same problem, solenoid banging in and out rapidly. No idea how this actually happens, it's as if bringing it in breaks the circuit so it rapidly cycles on the spring. Or the voltage dips below that which can bring in the coil, shouldn't be shorting as have fuses in the circuit...

Really stumped at the moment. Sprockets move freely, starter arm moves in and out ok, solenoid coils test well, 12V at solenoid from start button, battery at a strong 12.6V. Not sure if it's binding mechanically or the electrical circuit is compromised somewhere.

A few things to test yet, I'll try running a 12V lead straight to the starter terminal in case the starter button is faulty, and I'll remove the battery cover and try attaching another battery...

So currently perplexed, but on the plus side I'm close, and really good at adjusting the clutch now... 

Yeah suspect you're right. Priority now is just getting it going again. Can make do with it hitting rear pipe in the meantime. Rearsets will take some thought, esp as the ones I have aren't folding...

Last night after work I adjusted the valve clearances and re-routed the starter lead and oil line away from behind the rear exhaust...

Had the day off today and had planned an early start on the bike, but it was snowing this morning so I stayed in bed... 
When the sun came out I hit the shed and:

• heat shrink wrapped the exposed starter solenoid terminals
• cleaned the carb, cleaned the air filter foam
• installed carb manifold, carb and filter, and connected accel cable
• cleaned genny, fitted oil slinger, new bracket and gasket
• installed and connected generator. 
• fitted starter motor cover, installed generator breather
• tied up new ignition wires, fitted footpegs
• fitted exhausts, fitted kickstarter, discovered starter hits rear pipe
• removed exhausts, bent mounting bracket, refitted exhaust
• discovered kicker still hits rear pipe, swore loudly, will come back to this 
• fitted rear brake cable, fitted battery cover
• traced old points wiring
• fitted seat hump, found new plugs and put battery on charge
   

Glad I cleaned the filter foam, lot of grease and sand came out of it, just rinsed in kerosene, shook dry and reinstalled...

and carb looks much better with the grime removed...

So nearly there, big day and called it quits before I made mistakes hooking up the ignition. I looked at my old leads, thought I could use them again as they were good ones, but seems they are spiral wound stainless core, which may not be good for electronic igntn? (I'll read instructions). The kit came with new ones so no big deal, just not the straight plug in swap I was hoping for.

So some hopefully simple wiring, static timing and we're almost good to go...

On 24/10/2023 at 21:25, Goat said:

Have a look for a yamaha srv250. 

Such a great looking bike...

The bottom plate of the chain tensioner had come loose (can see it in pic above with 3 springs) and there's no way of installing it all together without removing the timing chain again, so I crimped it in place with vice grips, fitted new nyloc nuts on the clutch basket, a lock washer under the clutch locknut, a copper thrust washer and new gasket, and fitted the cover...

Then adjusted the clutch as per manual, went well, and clutch feels and operates OK. So I loosely fitted pegs and pipes to check clearances etc...

Got some issues with the rear pipe and cabling to sort...

But main thing is the kick start arm will clear the pipes (by a few mm, pipe will move in a bit from here). Was really worried they'd hit and I'd need a new exhaust system...

So getting there, really got no idea how I'll make rearsets work with the kicker, but that's a future problem...

Suns out guns shitty old bikes out...

Winter hiatus over, thought I'd look again at this again, had parked it in despair after things got hard and I gave up. Biggest issue after sorting the starter solenoid was a weird electrical fault where putting the key on lit up all the indicator lamps solid. No idea how this could happen looking at the wiring diagram (all rewired by me) and assumed using jumper leads had fried the electronic flasher. To get at the wiring I had to remove the battery tray and oil lines (again) as the common earth point was a stud on the back of the regulator. Separating things and testing them seemed ok, and reassembling exactly the same seems to have fixed the problem? No idea how, assume a bad earth or something but I'll take it...

Next was the clutch, I'd replaced the old twin centre spring setup with a machined multi spring system that was supposed to be an improvement...

But the clutch lever was hard as hell to operate, wondered if I'd put the wrong springs in, had chosen heavy duty ones as recommended. Used my clutch tool again to remove the releasing disc...

And tried it with 3 springs removed...

Which felt about the same, clearly something was amiss with the release ramp system. Looked at it and I'd been assembling the cover with the ramp in the wrong position, rotating it further back fixed things, and finally could feel the clutch moving as it should. The ramp itself is in good condition, only been peened in place once looking at it...

Slightly stiffer at the lever but I expected that, and it may settle in with use and the case full of oil. Encouraging though, and I discovered I'm missing a lock washer and thrust bearing that I'll install when I button things up properly. With this case back on I can start fitting pegs, levers, brake parts and exhausts again... 

Never realised how much the early chain drive ones resemble the ironhead. Think they all went rubber band around 92...?

Would be a fun city bike for sure...

Running gear in a Morry.

Sweeet...

Yeah think the evo pushrod has a rounded end the right size. Some people weld a ball bearing to a bit of rod/tube. It's an alloy pump so just needs a tap...

Prob should replace the ball if you've hit it...

Yep. Not sure that's where my issue is but was straightforward. I used a 3/8" (I think) ball bearing and dowel but think an evo pushrod is the perfect size...?

New spring also usually put in.

Did someone say strippers and clingfilm...? 

And I've been caught out with incompatible paints too, or just being too impatient and spraying before grease and wax remover has evaporated off. Inadvertent wrinkle finish.
It sucks but you learn...

Great looking car.
Details on your vapour blaster build please?

Dig the carb lamp... 

Great info. Cheers...

I like the red toolbox? reflection on the side of the tank... 

I swapped from external reg to internally regulated new alternator in a '71 Ford. From memory I jumped between 2 connectors on old reg and it all worked.

Except it drains if left. Suspect I need to install a diode somewhere too...

So slammed...

23 hours ago, Indiana_Jones said:

Speaking of sick cunts, found myself admiring Himalayans today.

Young bloke at work bought this, the Scram 411. Looks great...

1 hour ago, jackeo21 said:

 

These are super cool...

Got a mate who's a mechanic. He's never seen a Swift come in for repairs. 

I quite like them, in the spirit of the original mini...

Lathe will mill attachment up for tender at work. Got some issues apparently. Might chuck a lowball offer in...

Love the swappable O2 sensor/gauge system. Cool piece of kit...

I highly approve a properly crimped and heat sleeved connection... 

Was he about to give it a damn good thrashing...?