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oki - about 2 years down the road - I traced ALL the parts I needed to keep the engine (Mazda UA) perfectly original - so I gonna go with that  - I will post some pics to update a long time ago thread started

I was having headaches removing the side shaft bearings (rear shafts that go into the rear differential) - maybe because they were pressed bearings, and or old age - anyway

made me a "chinese hammer" to knock the bearings out in reverse - 

1. take a hollow iron "tube" approx  2.5mm wall thickness with an ID(inside diameter )that fits neatly over the side shaft axle right down to the  shrouded bearing inner race  - exposed face

2. make a "slide hammer" aka chinese hammer here

3. put a "hammer stop" at the top end of the overlaying shaft 

FIRST - FIT THE hammer SLIDE onto the hollow overlaying SHAFT - ie. assemble it first for operation - then fit the hollow overlaying shaft down onto the side shaft axle  and let drop it all down till it touches the bearing inner race (find a way to hold your "hammer slide" part up near the "top stop" part - so you can weld in peace - i used a piece of wire)

then  weld the bottom part of the hollow overlaying shaft that's in contact to the bearing inner race

I used stainless wire +tig -stainless sticks better then baby shite to some metals

while the weld is still hot and expanding the bearing race - slide (knock) the hammer in reverse (thats why its called a chinese one) - literally  30 seconds plus - poof - out they come - 4-5-6 hard knocks

GRIND off the first bearing inner race (from the overlaying shaft end tip) - and reload  -ie.  reweld the overlaying tube end onto the second bearing

you will see how I battled at first to get the first bearing out - I tried to grind it with mini grinder, no joy,.... knocked it, no joy...., tried to lever it, no joy.....and did not want to press it out - besides it would not fit into my press - AND the bearing shroud would have to take the pressure from the press -  most difficult as you cannot get a cutter/blade into the surrounding bearing shroud to split the bearing inner race to release it's grip on the side shaft  

then  "enter the dragon"  - "chinese hammer" -presto !!!! -

you also cannot hit/knock/press out  the wheel bearing (with another method or device) as you may crack the cast iron bearing holding shroud if the bearing is a real tight fit

- also the shroud design doesn't  let you get in anywhere to remove the bearing as the back end of the side shaft is blocked off - this "chinese method" removes all the stress +knock+pull +pressing is going directly into the bearing race that must be removed - and the harder it's knock pulled  the quicker it comes off.

hope this makes sense from the pics - 

getting new bearings for the differential then will adjust the backlash - thanks to YOU-TUBE lessons 

everything was cleaned and  rinsed properly after receiving a sand blasting from my wee little workshop in the backyard - then prepped with BLACK ETCH PRIMER, then oversprayed  the next day with RAVEN BLACK DUCO (enamel) - should hold out well enough. - had plenty of hard rain for 2 days and I left the chassis standing out in the cold dew, wet rain, and sunshine - not even a rust powder mark appearing after 2 weeks - super - I think its gonna work well.

same spray method and coating s for the chassis and all the parts - least about 2-3 coats everywhere

the chassis only had surface rust on it when I started - figured no reason to sand blast it or powder coat it - used wire brush under power and it came out super - if it lasted 45 years before me and had no rust holes - it will outlive my wee little self anyway at least for another  45 years and I sure as hell won't be around so long still  - so no worries here.!!!

me battling a little to remove the rear side shaft bearings - seems the side shaft bearings are stuck onto the side shafts with baby shite.  - press fitted no doubt - need to get them off without  cracking the cast iron bearing shrouds.

other wise we are all little tired but feeling grand. - later - if more pics needed please ask - 

hoping these all come out good enough - my comp skills are real bad - "old -timers"

stripped the Mazda down - blame it on "Maxted"

oki - I managed to source almost all of the parts I needed - including the 2 used engines (B1500 ones) with Standard crankshafts in them with standard "big-ends" (rod ends) - wonderful - as the crankshaft and main+big end bearings availibility was holding me back from keeping the "bakkie" (pick-up or utility) with it's original engine

anybody youtube the "Mazda B1600 with skyline engine RB20 - straight six 2 liter engine I think ????  - sounds awesome - 

https://youtu.be/-_vkLql1SRo

hope I did this computer reference thing correct?

I cannabilised the best sleeves +pistons+rings to make up one good engine - specs look ok.

stripped it down to the chassis (that's Maxteds fault - I am copying him) - all parts dismantled, at moment rebuilding EVERYTHING - not a single bolt remaining on the chassis - busy with learning how to take the backlash out of the differential - you tube will do that for me, I will post pics  just need to get them reduced in size - getting there,

lots to do

back soon - nearly midnight here - 

Hi Folks, the B1500 Mazda Proceed project is a GO it seems, I got me 2 used engines I found - and both cranks  inside are still "STD" with "std" bearings on big ends(rod bearings) and mains

so far the load bay has been removed and I am getting excited to tackle the job - never done this type thing before - don't know how much in gin n tonic it gonna cost me as well    - I get thirsty when I work

what is outstanding in the parts arena  are the following:

1. big end bearings (rod bearings) - for love of me - i cannot seem to source them here (South Africa) - maybe another vehicles bearings will fit - 

2. I would really like a spare distributor cap

3. original sleeves and pistons ( I can bore the B1500 sleeves to take B1600 pistons - compression height the same(42mm)+bore is only 3mm bigger - 75mm vs 78mm - the sleeves have walls of 6mm thick(possible - hmmm yes I would say)  but B1600 is domed top piston and I will lose some compression - but I score on the bigger bore - should balance out somewhere in the middle - will have to have a head gasket made up to accomodate the bigger bore

seems the old gaskets B1500 head gaskets were made to just cover the piston sleeves edges(firing wall) to stop people boring them bigger and thus also sell more piston sleeves instead

maybe someone out there can sell me some rod bearings + me on PAYPAL and registered Ebay - 

meanwhile I got me a few sets of mains - all sizes - Std to 40thou - just in case

will post update and pics as I go along

now to buy some time somewhere?

oh - the little lady is machined oversize/undersize - 60 thous (1.5mmmetric)  everywhere - bearing sets for it only go max  60thou - and none available - 

super...super....keep the ideas flowing - much much appreciated - I am learning more about mechanics (the engine side-bottom half)  - can never seem to get to know too much about it and its great fun and work combined for me,  yep business and pleasure and I get paid - better then most things that bear a resemblance, only other thing I know that can compete possibly with this combo is if I dropped machining and became a Gigolo,  -

I only specialise in the top half of the engine (cylinder heads+machining and alteration thereof) - never get to look under the ladies hood....and admittedly I am ashamedly lacking in this field

thanks also for being such a friendly bunch - busy negotiating a refund on some of my money from the bloke - or else.!!!!

Firstly - I will post pics - just need to corner the kid to show me how - pics on my phone cannot get across to the PC - need setting somewhere

engine cut out day after I purchased it - modus sound familiar??? - tried everything  to restart and idle properly , splurting a little - found water in the oil - radiator empty - nice milkshake but never overheated - had to engine flush anyway now - water water everywhere, I aint great with mechanics  but aint dumb either - had to take cylinder head off(thought was blown head gasket-correct here - then saw "hole" in #3 piston - 

new gasket must be made up with slightly larger diameter firing ring - seems the block has been rebored a few times over 45 years  - cylinder gets bigger diameter - off shelf gasket ring stays same = less sealing rim

had prior to slitting her gut checked before with overseas sites on parts  - seemed there were enough parts n places  - now battling to get them to reply to my emails or vice versa? or maybe I must try harder

seems like the compresson ring on #3 has deliberately been removed(rest are there)someone tampered definately  - was  made out as if the carb needed re-setting - anyways - I say deliberate - looks like something sharp from the top(piston) was hit into the piston lip (edge and the first ring(compression ring) was levered out to reduce compression in the cylinder - so it runs but not too well oil ring still perfect - so

out she comes - also wanted full recon as the machine must be reliable - gonna be used everyday 

also the head gasket was not sealing properly around the fire ring + close to a water eye (another cylinder)

by way - I already found 3 old Mazdas hidden away(lost legion ones)..   - 1 got chickens and filled with sand - but got sidewindows intact - windscreen missing+tailgate missing(damn-I need that), other has all windows +engine (maybe B1600) - 3 has engine+trim+front bumper  - all of the them still has diff +drums driveshaft it seems - maybe able to salvage and transfer but no tailgates - 

body parts I need:

tailgate

front windscreen

engine parts:

need it seems new crank, rings, pistons bearings

oh - my old forklift (HYSTER) - has exactly same engine - hmmmmmm - anybody ever pimped a forklift ????

oki - many thanks - I got some better ideas - 

prob go with some kind of Mazda engine  - a newer/later model one - petrol  - the old 1971 B1500 looks solid otherwise - but lots of sideways play(wear???) between the conrod big end "thrust sides"and the crank journals "thrust sides" - ie. as the crank+rod rotate in motion there will be possible sideways movement,  any ideas of how big this gap should be - mine are 0,4mm 0,5mm and 0.6mm - when I push the conrod over to one side in the crank and stick the feeler into the gap that opens

plus other wear in pins - piston wobble - etc.

solution for me: is wider conrod big ends machined to accomodate the side play to the crank walls - am I on the right track here?

any ideas here??? 

anybody got any ideas as to what conversion motor to put into a 1971 Mazda B1500 - spares ain't around here - (I realised it too late - saw the little lady  - bought her - she is what she seemed - but the seller wasn't - shame on him)

I been sending out emails for spares worldwide - most dont even answer  - some dont ship to my region  - but ..Hmmmmm - little response

got me into trouble - wife cannot know the odds are stacked - need to get the "B" - up n running asap

any ideas for conversions - reasonable please - i need the LDV for my work homeshop (fetch n delivery)

thanks

Allan

South Africa (world football champs - ok guys dont get jealous now) - lol...

Name (first is sweet): Allan
Location: City of Port Elizabeth  - South Africa
Cars you own: since yesterday - Mazda B1500 Proceed - 1971model
Mods to them (can be brief or detailed): still coming - need advice
Link to pics (if you have some, and keep it a link to keep 56kers happy) - soon 
How you found out about oldschool: was searching for more info on the Mazda
Anything else you want to add: wonderful site - I see member already did Mazda B1600 up from the chassis - he has gotten me inspired but also scared to start - ho hummmmm!!!