Bellicose

Page i use.

Most comprehensive i've found to date.

http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/fitment/page#

Think I'm about yo answer my own question but can someone confirm.

Epoxy then prime then bog? Epoxy seems too smooth to bog directly onto.

Pics 4 fred.

Gaz

Epoxy - key with 80 to 180 grit - bog - prime.

Hey with regard to cutting compounds waxes etc what do you guys recommend? Just finished my bottle of "plum crazy" i bought 15 years ago it honestly makes rooted chalky paint look great. But! Im ready to try some new stuff and have a nice car i want to keep glossy..... while it sits garaged.

I use all sorts, it depends on experience as well as products.

Below was done with cheap(ish) Evercoat products.

I've seen experienced people get good results with cheap products and absolutely crap results with top of the range big dollar products.

Thanks man is there a way of working out what percentage of thinners it should be or is just add till the mixtures right?

What paint are ya using (brand and type)?

It's probably been talked about but cbf looking through a million pages.

I'm going to be prepping a car for paint soon, and really cbf doing it by hand.

Is there much of a difference between air powered DA sanders and electric? If so which would be better?

Depends on type of electric one you're thinking of using.

I could ring up tomorrow but just thought i would ask here first.

Im going to re paint a car door in 2k so i got white paint, hardner and thinners from the paint shop.

My question is how do i measure the mix properly the paint shop said its a 3:1 mix

Am i right thinking i use the right hand column in the pic above for the colour say i pick number 4 then use the middle column and top up to number 4 with hardner then thin down as neccesary?

Yep, you're on to it.

The 10-20-30% are for the thinners (reducer)

Great turnout guys well done.

8 vehicles I think!

Looking forward to the next one

Good number for a first time meet.

When doing a full re-spray i always blow the car apart and paint separate.

Just finished in shed so by the time i get clean and get in there it'll be all over.

Deffo next one tho'.

Yeah, that'd be right. Organise monthly meets now i don't have a suitable car hahaha..........pfffffft................

BUT, i will be able to terrorize the walkway when the Gadabout is done.

Powerful magnet and a large ball bearing work also.

It's how they fix wind instruments.

Nothing i can really do, neither can the police by the sounds. Got a quote this morning for 280+gst to redo the rear quarter and blend door and bumper etc so not as bad as i thought. Still a shit load of money for a student to pull out of nowhere. Next step is probs a camera somewhere up the drive

That's a good price man. Although the $ are hard to find when ya have none ya won't get a better quote (if ya did ya wanna ask some questions about quality of the job)

Bodyline in the door is wrong, I reckon it's a 67 Impala

Cheers

Matt

Yep, or a similar year Poncho.

  Nice examples  of early LJ Torana    

 

LC not LJ

Also, what tip does your gun have?

Something like Epotec needs a minimum of a 1.8 setup.

I have been working on painting the fairings on my wifes bike. They have lots of holes/shapes/vents etc in them and I find that by the time I have sprayed them from a few angles to get inside and then done the fairing around them, I've got quite alot of paint in the area nearby and end up with sags/runs.

 

Could I solve this by painting the inside of the odd shaped bits, then waiting the 3-5mins between coats, then coming back and painting the flat areas of the fairing around the tricky bits? 

Or is there another trick to these kind of things.

Mate, if ya want i can pop 'round and give ya a hand and / or advice.

So I covered some rust repairs and rust treatments in protec epotec 408, I used the right reducer at 20% when spraying. I put it on way too thick but this is mostly because it seemed really trasparent. Did I do something wrong or is it just really transparent? It doesnt really matter as its just to protect the metal and the car will be painted later but its just a bit weird, normally primers are opaque.

 

example:

 

Not assuming ya didn't but.........ya did stir it REALLY well didn't ya?

If ya have any Protec Q's let me know.

Owned a paint & panel distributorship in HB in late '90s and Fortec was my main brand.

It was Fortec back then as the name 'Protec' was already owned by a company in NZ. It was bought into NZ by a turkey by the name of Ferguson (He was the guy who started and made the 'Mendent' brand of body filler, which he sold to CRC and made a killing, so started a winery in Tutukaka and also started importing Protec from the two guys that owned it in south oz)

Anyway, a few years ago PPG bought out (as PPG do) Protec in oz and the paint manufacturer with the name Protec in nz, so that's a (very brief) history of Protec in nz LOL.

Sorry for rant.

And that ladies and gents is why a good paint job STARTS at $5000.

Good work bud.

Ahhh, should've been clearer.

Wanting to check engine / gearbox oil.

Before ya say anything, that's a rhetorical question.

Google is NO help what so-ever.

So i got a Suzuki FR50 off a member here and going through a few things and decided to check oil level.

Well bugger me, oil filler plug doesn't have a "dipstick" and there is no 'sight glass'

So how do i check how much (or little) oil is in it?

Yep, i'm a painter. Happy to come and have a chat with ya if you want.

This has always puzzled me but rumour has it it's fine.

Pretty sure changing 'usage' is one of those pain in the arse things that has to be done physically at a VTNZ. 

Also have heard of people getting so frustrated at the process they want to lean over the counter and give the officious bureaucratic twat a slap.

im an old barry, and probably have one if you get caught out

Thanks man, appreciated.

A few others i'm talking too have said maybe it's 'British Standard Cycle (BSC)'

Which may (or may not) make sense considering Phillips' bike building history at the time.

100% whitworth

Do you have access to whitworth dies?

I think i may, i know a couple of older engineers who 'should' have some.

Are they not just generic seals

Nah mate.

They've all got their differences.

Stops people putting generic seals in their Sata, Iwata and DeVillbiss' then claiming the guns are shit and putting the hard word on the gun maker.

I'm hoping that it will still be better than most knock off guns from supercheap/repco and suitable for my weekend warrior status, I used its big brother of similar vintage to paint my car and while the finish may not be show worthy is still better than rattle cans/ no gun

 

I just need a compressor!

For the time and effort it'll take to get paint outa that in a kinda ok fashion go to a paint & panel supply place and buy ya self a new one.

For $140 you can get a decent gun with 2 tip set-ups (Needle and fluid tip), comes with a (semi ok pressure gauge) and all in a nice carry case.

AND yes they do work well.