linearentropy

1 hour ago, cletus said:

I'd steer clear of anything aluminium if you can, that can be challenging to certify unless you can get proof of what it's made of and there's no doubts ie don't buy anything that could have been made in China.

What kind of proof would I need.   These are machined in Canada, and claim to be "Precision CNC machined from 6061-T6 and 7075-T6 Billet Aluminum"

Would I need some kind of formal documentation?  Its a small company who should be able to provide whatever is necessary.

Any ideas why this isn't certifiable? https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/hardrace-to-suit-altezza-aristo-rear-upper-adjustable-arm/

Is it because we just dont allow this type of arm,  or the rod end, or just because China?

I would have thought at least these upper arms would be okay with multi link rears since there would be negligible load?

Looking at picking these up https://www.serialnine.com/product-page/is300-jzs161-jzx110-billet-serial999-rear-upper-control-arm but thats waaaaaaay too much money for something that is also unable to be made legal here.  No welding to be turned away with these.   (Hopefully image isnt too big here)

Ideally lower arms like these would be the go instead (cheaper). But i think other people have been turned down with the equivalent hardrace, due to design rather than poor quality?   https://www.serialnine.com/product-page/jzs161-is300-jzx110-rear-lower-control-arms

Increasing steering angle. I get quite fuzzy with the terms thrown around in the standards.

Specifically toyota lower ball joints as pictured below.  

You can get cast items, not cut and welded that increase steering angle.  (And i'd assume quicken up steering?)

Is this something that is legal?    Assuming there were no other issues caused, so rubbing of guards, frame rails or contact with control arms, is there any reason these cant be certified.  

I'm guessing they change ackerman but thats over my head at this point. 

That’s kind of what I’m getting at. The Bilstein struts and coilovers would have the same steering arm attached in the same way right?

 The replacement struts are fine for wof, but should I try to cert the car for something else they fail due to the construction?  

Not oldschool but I've never actually seen confirmation on this. 

DC5 Integra / EP3 Civic front shocks.

I know these chassis suffer from serious bumpsteer when lowered, but that shouldn't apply when retaining the stock height.

They have a pickup for the tie rods on the shock itself as seen here. (Not a great pic)

I've read that this is the issue with aftermarket coilovers. However i'm not sure why, is it to do with materials, angles, both?

A few companies still make shocks & full adjustable coilovers for them, and while I can kinda understand why the usual Taiwanese suspects aren't given a pass, surely a company like Bilstein can be trusted to build something to a standard at least as good as the OEM?  Their offering seen here.

Would something like Bilstein or KW actually fail to meet the requirements, or is it a matter of everyone wanting cheap & cheerful?

As a side note, Tein, Bilstein & historically others have made OE replacement shocks for these chassis.  Am I correct in assuming that these will pass a legit wof because they are OE level replacements?  And that the issue comes in at cert time due to an LVVTA rule?  Surely something from any of these reputable brands would be better off than the generic £80 replacements I've found out of the UK which I also believe would be perfectly legal here?

I'm looking at picking up a civic and I've noticed that front shocks have been discontinued by Honda so I don't want to find myself in a position where I'm caught out with blown shocks and no real upgrade path.

20 hours ago, sleeektoy said:

Alpine panelbeaters  https://alpinepanelbeaters.co.nz

Jordan Panelbeaters http://www.jordanpb.co.nz/

I'll check them out on monday.

The first panel shop i went to pointed out that there was also more damage further up the guard, and on both the bonnet and headlight.  I hadnt seen it as it was still filthy from the trip up.

I had an informal estimate of 2500-3000+ gst from one panelbeater, and a formal quote of $2750 from another.

I told the transport company this and they kicked up a fuss saying they only have limited carrier liability cover up to $2000 including gst.  Seems pretty odd to me as they transport cars worth far more than this crown is, and $2000 isnt really that much.  Something to keep in mind if any of you are having a car transported.   I have no idea what kind of insurance you're supposed to get on a car you havent received yet, but worth looking into if you cant pick up a car in person.

So i bought another crown from christchurch. Has immaculate paint, a custom black respray in Japan.  Unfortunately the transporter from CHCH to Auckland managed to fuck the bumper paint and split the front lip.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a repair place in Auckland that can actually paint match rather than going off the paint code and calling it a day?

Will be getting a quote from GT Refinishers but i'm told the transporter will request multiple quotes.

Paint in question.

And some pics of the damage

What the go with cutting down the footplate of an auto brake pedal during a manual conversion? In case the manual pedal I've found doesnt actually work, I'll be looking at cutting down the auto brake pedal on my crown.  Cant find any real info about this in the car construction manual.   I'd be using another toyota manual rubber pad as a template, however i'd ideally like it offset as far to the gas pedal as possible.  Is there a rule of thumb in this situation, eg at least x% of the footpad must remain on each side?

On 18/06/2021 at 13:44, RUNAMUCK said:

What happens if you encounter the five-0 in a location where theres no mobile reception? (OOODLES of places like that) what then?

Its a valid question. You can get the details up with just the number on the tag and the vin.  If they have cell but not internet I imagine they could call and get someone at their home station to look.  Whether or not they'd bother is up in the air.

I think I'll save the details page as a pdf on my phone for if this situation arises and hope for the best.

On 01/06/2021 at 16:58, xsspeed said:

yeah just found that one myself, is a listing on a kumho site from the reliable interweb good enough for a cert guy?

It was for me when getting 215/45R15 Toyos certified on a 15x8 as they're smaller than the required 225width.  Showed the certifier the details on the Toyo UK website as the NZ site was useless.

He was all good with it.

On 30/03/2021 at 20:45, cletus said:

put some BC's in it then you have to pay for another cert because they wont match the photos on the cert

This seems to be an interesting byproduct of the new tags over plates.

Say you went through cert to with quality coilovers that have nobody in NZ willing to rebuild them.  5-10 years down the line of daily driving on our shit chipseal roads and they're due for a rebuild. Unaffordable to send offshore for a rebuild, and say the product line was discontinued.

You now can't just get another set of BCs for example, as you'll fail the next wof if they go by the book?

I get that it has probably always been the case, but without any more detail on a plate than "Adj Suspn" its never been an issue.

Out of interest for coilover manufacturers.  What about Japanese brands that aren't well known here?

I've got some KTS coilovers which seems to be somewhat common in Japan, but a tier below the name brands, ie HKS, Apexi, Tein etc.

Would a quick google from the certifier be enough to see that its not a shit chinese brand, or will i run into issues as its likely they'd have never had them presented for cert previously?

On 28/03/2020 at 09:31, sheepers said:

Hydraulic throw out for the win too, just leave more gap than is recommended because the 3-5 mm that the tilton ones recommend is way to small a gap. 10mm on setup works fine. 

Did you have to use a 3/4″ master cylinder?  I've seen this recommended for the Quartermaster release bearing.

I'm looking at using a ORC or OS Giken clutch with their movement kit to turn it from a pull to push clutch.  But the hydraulic bearing would make life easier (and cheaper).

Mate of mine bought an modern auto 2L one as a workvan a year or two back.  He's looking to sell up and get something smaller, faster and hopefully more fuel efficient.

This thing is slow as fuck and drinks a shit tonne of petrol.   $120 of 91 for 450-500ish kms from memory.

I've bought a fresh import Mark II that has been registered as a "Chaser Mark 2".  I've planned to go to the compliance centre to get them to submit a LANDATA correction form, however the cert plate also says Chaser.  If i get the registration changed to a Mark II, am I just able to contact the certifier to get a new plate with the correct model?  Note that the dealership did the cert not me.

Ahh sorry about that.   The 100mm measurement was the ID using my aliexpress spec measuring calipers.  As for the measurements on the silencers, guess only way know would be to measure by hand.

I've bought a new money pit thats exhaust is to loud for extended driving so I'm looking at throwing a silencer in the tip but I'm a bit unsure on sizing.

Its a 100mm tip, and there are 100mm silencers out there, however they dont seem to reduce the volume that much.  AdrenalinR do ones that drop the volume further (and NZ made) but the closest size in 98mm.   Is this going to be a problem with it rattling or too much airflow escaping around the silencer?

A fellow hairdresser has offered the use of his syncrometer so I'll pick that up whenever i can.  Currently running with 16v throttles although I have a set of blacktops in storage. Seems like the adjustment will be much the same.  Not looking forward to doing that on the car though.

The map sensor i had hooked up as I was going to try run the megasqsuirt "ITB" mode, which uses speed density close to idle, then has a changover point for alpha-n.  Based on the quick drive around the block I did before noticing the misfire, its probably not needed as it felt drivable down low as is.    And yes I can use the exisitng map sensor for baro correection.

I'll cap off the vacuum on the fuel pressure reg.  Its not something i thought about but what you say makes sense.     Cheers for the advice, hopefully can have it sorted soon enough.

The previous owner of the setup i used had them balanced, but I really need to double check or redo it.  Im suprised that unbalanced throttles would have that affect, then again I have no clue.

Yep throttles cracked open is the idle.

The setup is a TTT 4age adaptor manifold, which has a vacuum port in each runner.  All four are tee'd into a small vacuum block which feeds the brake booster, fuel pressure reg & the MAP sensor on the ecu.

ECU is a ms3pro board, mated to an adaptor plate that someone in the states has designed for easy PNP for MX5s.   I've had to send the ms3pro board back to be RMA'd once, so I'm mildly confident that hardware wise its fine.  Both fuel and timing are alpha-n maps.

God I hope not.  It ran fine before removing the factory intake manifold and I'd like to think my luck isn't THAT bad.

Nah couldnt find anywhere where it raised the idle when hit with brake clean.  

Seems like the more I run it the worse its getting.  Now got a bit of white smoke out the exhaust.

I'd sprayed some crc all around it to see if it'd raise the idle, didnt seem to affect it.

That being said I'm not too sure if 556 is actually flamable.  Haven't got any brakeclean left to test with.

edit

Seems like its not flamable.  I'll pop down the road and buy another can of brake clean to have another test.

I finally found time to get the 4age itbs on my mx5.  First startup went as smoothly as can be expected.  Took it for a couple of laps around the block and the noise has made it all worth the hassle, almost.   That being said, theres a misfire on cylinder 4.   I've tried everything i can think of, and more, and still can't seem to diagnose the issue.

• Swap fuel injectors
• Swap spark plugs
• Test plug wire - 3.3kOhms, seems to match numbers found online
• Set ecu to batch fire rather than fully sequential
• Running wasted spark for all tests

Here is a video of it running.   https://streamable.com/tnybd

Does anyone have any ideas for what to test, short of another plug wire which im trying to find now?   I've quite frankly run out of ideas.

Only tyre I found that was smaller than 225/45R15 and had manufacturer information saying it was made to go on an 8j wheel was the Toyo T1R 215/45R15. I've been told they are hard to come by now due to the change in Toyo importers.

They're pretty bad in terms of dry grip and even worse in the wet. I'll be selling mine soon enough - moving to semi slicks as the performance just isnt there.

1 hour ago, yoeddynz said:

which shouldnt be the case with off the shelf plug'n'play models.

Must have been on the same wavelength this morning.   Woke up dazed and confused after way too few drinks last night and impulse ordered a MS3Pro powered PNP after realising the cheap Links dont have knock control.  Its way overkill (for now), but its a stamped board not hand soldered and cost about the same as a Link Monsoon + harness.