Ashkellybarr

Issues with the exhaust too. HX30 rear housing flange doesn’t suit anything I can find off the shelf so I’ll need to get another flange-turbo that goes straight to 3”.

that and the lengths of tube and bends OD is about a 1.5mm to big for the other V bands I’ve got for down pipe to mid, and mid - tail so I’ll haft to chuck them in the lath.

mainly cause I like to overlap the tube from one side into the other side V band as well as using male-female V bands.

i did it on a JZX110 system I did and it located well and sealed super tight.

other things the intake. Going to do a quick cut and shut to get it running. Bit of an awkward spot but a 90’ into the cente on the plenum should work ok. Just need to do a measure up from the bellhousing to see where it will sit.

then save up for a spool gun and glue stick the cunt together 

Unfortunately I’ve been to busy with life to give anything car related some time until the last couple days.

stills runs like shit, -5 stars for the eBay carby. Think the secondary sticking, maybe, fuck knows

anywho, seat was buggered and found another for $80 in good con. Good bloke even dropped it off for me and had yarns about unfinished projects for over an hour.

Pulled the vinyl up and... ffs

ill sort it out and take it back, then DP40, then raptor coat it all black and just not bother with floor covers cause 4wd life

What did the carpets from autodec sting ya?

3 minutes ago, Willdat? said:

Or for a little more go 

https://evsource.com/products/hyper-9

No specs on controller for DC feed?

Electric fork lift motor ftw 

On 03/02/2019 at 23:48, Truenotch said:

They’re good motors. 

Also worth looking at the Toyota GR series (2GRFE).

I’ve done a lot of research into doing rwd 2GR. Absolute pain in the ass. Can swap onto a small box that won’t handle the torque and no room for starter as the block design means the starter has to be on the Gbox side.

or a Lexus sc350 2GR with auto and custom bellhousing to manual box, $$$

1GR with R box is the go, but it’s a pleb commercial vehicle motor compared to a Nissan 35.

2GR bellhousing pattern is different to the Lexus 2GR and 1GR so that’s a no go.

ford or Nissan for sure

On 03/02/2019 at 23:48, Truenotch said:

They’re good motors. 

Also worth looking at the Toyota GR series (2GRFE).

I’ve done a lot of research into doing rwd 2GR. Absolute pain in the ass. Can swap onto a small box that won’t handle the torque and no room for starter as the block design means the starter has to be on the Gbox side.

or a Lexus sc350 2GR with auto and custom bellhousing to manual box, $$$

1GR with R box is the go, but it’s a pleb commercial vehicle motor compared to a Nissan 35.

2GR bellhousing pattern is different to the Lexus 2GR and 1GR so that’s a no go.

ford or Nissan for sure

14 hours ago, Yowzer said:

We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha

Good to know. I’ll unbolt the arm and take it for a drive first to see what it’s like

Do a sickcunt ya burnout!

+1 for for getting rona on the rd first

If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods?

i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together

cherers

On 01/02/2019 at 13:20, locost_bryan said:

Same as Jag V6 from S-type, should be easy to find engine and auto at dismantlers, or whole parts car cheap.

Nissan V6 also good choice from 350Z or Skyline? Should be plenty of those at the wreckers. 

Yeah after posting this I found a guy put a jag one into an mx5 in the uk and a company that’s sells conversion parts for it. Inc carbon intakes

youtube “car throttle mx5” and it’ll turn up

and yeah imagine 2.5L Nissan motors are pretty reasonable price to

Theres ford Duratech v6 guys put in all sorts, so might find bellhousing and other conv parts pretty easy. Can’t imagine they would be a super common swap in NZ so might get reasonable pricing on them

V6 with twin t28’s

I haft to say my 8v went pretty well for a pleb spec 89. When I was 17 my mate 92 3.8 commy has trouble keeping up

2 minutes ago, vwthomas said:

Ive seen a tonne of people have success with them. I should have really stuck with it but the engine did sound awesome on kjet. Nar im a sucker for mk2's \so I bought the girlfriend one. Thats the next project, might as well put the 16v in something else.

Fair enough.

k24

2 minutes ago, vwthomas said:

Im glad its not just me. I actually had it running and got it tuned to a drive able standard, the bigger problem I think i had was with voltage variation. I do want to have another try at it but not now. You know i still have the parcel shelf you sold me. Still looks mint. Drop around next time you're over this way man!

I didn’t even get mine running, failed to connect. Got the code on it but never got a connection again.

spoke to a couple people, they said the earlier boards with just two layers are far better.

yeah man I drive by sometimes and keep saying to my self to flick you a message.

is the one with roof racks your sisters?

I had the same thing with the ms i built, multi layer boards are garbage.

nice to see you still have it after all these years

nice wheels. 

Made some good progress today.

stripped more. Ended up getting rid of the plastic covers on the rear of the head altogether.

this meant getting rid of the connector block with comb style links.

throttle position changing to the front of the engine, pretty much all air sensors/solenoids have to move.

this has left the injectors far to long, witch isn’t an issue as I’ve got to change the plugs away, so I’ll cut it all back and reuse the factory plastics as cable support.

need to change the plugs as Honda do their own style of injectors. Msel have Bosch 730’s that are batch matched for some of the best pricing I could find. I’ll need extending cups due to the odd length as well and use ev6 ls2 plugs.

added a 5v core from the ecu to the sender location, but I’ll leave it unwrapped until I see where boost solenoid and IAT sensors are going.

I use bootlace crimps with the coloured feral cut off. Coppers twisted together to the same thickness as the insulation then the crimp hangs over and gets crimpped down onto the insulation as well, for strength and help against metal fatigue on the strands.

larger ones that aren’t in line are just twist, crimp with longer crimps. Heat shrink, fold the end over, and head shrink again to seal it off from liquids.

Started sorting out the loom and removing things not needed.

they run two ECT sensors, one being in the bottom the the rad

also two speed sensors off the gearbox.

theres a plastic casing that sits on the back of the head witch houses a collection 0v, 12v perm,12v ecu and 5v.

although the casing is on the back the head I might be able to rework it to the back of the intake. Try hide it and utilise as much factory loom as possible.

ive split the E-throttle into a seperate loom altogether.

want to swap out the oil sender for a press sensor to get proper reading, guys normally T off for the turbo at this point but would think that leads to inaccurate readings should the turbo flow a lot of oil??

ill post some photos when I’ve started adding wiring.

Need to cut and reweld my manifold adapter too so the turbo sits closer and lower but that will haft to wait till I’ve finished moving

20 hours ago, f100_dreamin said:

Maaate, I wanted to buy this off you and you wouldn’t sell it, so now you better finish it haha! 

Agreed, it’s come this far!

Cabs got some rust and dent from people putting stuff on the roof. 

Not really fussed on what it looks like but I need to look after the cab against rust at least for wof’s.

took the worst back to bare metal and acid washed it then sealed it with some epoxi primer.

still need to do rear behind the tray but that can’t wait till I’ve got my workshop setup.

went to car colour and picked up paint for the cab.

he asked how he could help when I walked in, said I wanted some red paint. Looked at me like I was some pleb.

he had a look at the chassis tag, and sure enough it just says red. He looked it up in the system and it was just listed as red..

looked at me and laughed and said “ya weren’t joking were ya”

its NZ new 1985 and for some reason the tag dosent have much on it aside from vin and red haha

picked up full EFS kit as well. Gotta measure and change the mounts for the front shocks so it’s good I got the +50mm ones off Kris I can run till I get that sorted