Ashkellybarr

Cool many thanks!

3 hours ago, cletus said:

do you mean it needs a repair cert and you want to know how to repair it to that standard?

or it has had one done and you need a copy of the repair cert?

 

I don't know how you would get a copy of it, you might be able to get the repair certifier to make copies for you? its not usually something that the customer gets a copy of, the cert paperwork gets given to the vtnz/vtnz inspector

Cheers for the reply

the repairs been done and I’m told it was signed off by a certifier.

however car doesn’t come with any paperwork to back it up, nor can VTNZ or carjam can confirm anything about.

Car has since been modified and will require cert for the mods so I’m asking as I don’t want it to be an issue should it go for cert

thanks again

ash

Haha

I just got a new naughbour too so I’ll try the factory one first haha

might have a look at the governor too. But I feel cause it’s smoking so much as if it’s really rich it would be less likely to be that cause that would be the same as just chilling part throttle??

16 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Which ones are you looking at? If it’s a pit bike exhaust, they’re not great. You’ll lose low down torque and possibly never get in “on pipe” (they’re not engineered well at all). You’d be better off with a cleaned out standard pipe. 

 

Yeah was just looking at a generic ones on trademe. Think I might be worse off?

Whipped the exhaust off yesterday, it’s the original for sure and all I can I see in it with a phone light is shiny sticky black tar.

filled it with break cleaner, degreaser and an assortment of other random aerosols I had sitting around and shook the shit out of it for a good while. Tipped it out but not much came out so thinking the packing socked it up so let it sit for a while to air as I had thoughts of me bolting it back on and starting it only to go off as a hand grenade

not much difference so I’ll give the heat a go. Found this on YouTube and looks like fun so I’ll dig out the heat gun and wait for the miss’ to go out so she doesn’t put a stop to my fun for fear of me burning the house down 

failing that there’s super cheap generic systems on trade me with an expansion chamber and straight through muffler for 30 inc postage so I’ll cut one of them up and fit it under fareing.

gotta be miles better then some non straight through thing with multi chambers from +35 years ago

Yeah correct. I haven’t looked into it properly but was my plan to reuse factory loom where I could

if there isn’t a constant supply I was going to look at seeing if there was another core going to the fuse box (or close to) and refitting that end onto a fused constant.

Hey Cletus

just wondering, if a car has had a section of the floor replaced and this needs a repair cert.

how would one find the repair cert paperwork?

ive done a car jam report and it doesn’t say anything, nor is there any other paperwork to go with the car

do these get logged on a system of any sort?

thanks

ash

White will come straight from the battery so be careful where you tap in as it might not be fused

If it’s like my 3A there should be some weird emissions box thing above the glove box, have a look at using the feeds and 0v to that. That way your using factory loom and fuse so will keep it tidy and the ecu fuse in the fuse box instead of a random inline one witch can be hard to trace.

black with yellow strip should be starting circuit and go to your starter relay and solenoid?? There should be another black (with maybe a red stripe?) that will feed other accessories witch might be better for switch feed

3 minutes ago, BlownCorona said:

i put the 80cc version of this 3 speed motor on a go kart as super kid friendly being 3 spd auto while still being awesomely quick once you wind it out through the gears.

found it hard to find info, but everything said the automatic system was a really well designed and bulletproof system. 

Yeah seems to be good so I’ll do the fluid and leave it.

went for a blat yesterday and she’s pretty fucking guttless, hits 20km then falls flat as a pancake. Smokes like fuck too.

the old Columbian Man i bought it off had the carb rebuilt and said it’s run far better since but with 8 other scooters he’s not had the time to look at it.

im thinking it’s a mix of a blocked up exhaust and maybe running a bit rich so I’ll take truenotchs advice on cleaning that out and see if that helps.

aside from that, it starts so easy a toddler could kick start it haha all the switches work but indicators stay on so Ill wire in a new flasher and chuck some Ali LED lamps in it to brighten it up.

4 hours ago, DB8-TypeR said:

Most common fault ive found with electric start is brushes on the starter or a poked start relay.

Brakes, might just need adjusting, might need new pads. For $30 id just replace the pads as if its been sitting forma while the brake material could have fallen off the shoe

Sweet, yeah was thinking I might pull the drums off and give them a clean out a see what they look like.

if I do need new shoes can I just call any old scooter place?

The electric ign isn’t working either so I’ve got to do some fault finding on that.

kick start works but the misso will need that working.

i read it runs a 20-30vac dyna with a 12vdc rectifier, small battery to feed starter and lights. I’m pretty confident with wiring but if there’s any common failures to look at first it would be much appreciated 

Awesome cheers! Yeah Some google search’s said something about wet clutches but It was pretty breif.

But I get what you mean about free wheeling, much the same as a push bike when you stop pedaling

is there a way to test if these are slipping? And if they are what would be the next corse of action?

would the springs on the clutches get soft over time and engage to early or are they a pretty reliable system?

I bought a scooter! And I need some help as I know nothing about them haha

it runs and has rego so it’s just general maintenance I need to know about. What fluids to use, things I should look at, where to get parts etc etc

the scooters a 1984 Suzuki roadie 50cc

i bought it cause it was cheap, and me and the misso want something cheap to run for short distance nipping out and miss’ to get to work when the weathers good.

also a good mate is opening his own shop doing painting and custom work so I’ll let him have free reign as a canvas, and the boys can take it with them to events as pit bike / advertising

its a three speed auto, not sure how it works but if someone could tell me what fluid to use it that would be awesome.

and anything to check with the breaks? Drum brake front and rear

Some sad looking scissors mate

Kris’ lux pulls hard to! And it’s actually not that bad in the cab at all.

far cry from my leafs all round haha

I think offroad regardless of terrain is weight and ratios.

you have all seen how slow my old thing is, dunes and not so mudy bush tracks it keeps up with anything.

just needs a fucking good run up for sand hills cause it’s go no torque once momentum is lost, nothing more power can’t fix

but it weighs 1400kg. Mates 07 rodeo with steps and bullbar is 2100, and safs get over 3t easily.

thats a lot of weight pushing tires down into mud, or trying to lift the front wheel over a rock.

a lot of those top crawlers are pretty much tube frame chassis, couldn’t imagine many would be over a ton

The LVVTA Facebook page had a thing about coil spacers recently, can’t find the post now sorry. But I’m pretty sure it’s a no.

unless they were softish factory rubbers

12 hours ago, Thousand Dollar Supercar said:

How did you apply the final coat of clear?

(I've been failing at everything I try to varnish lately. First, I continue trying to fix the brush marks and runs and bits of stuff stuck in the varnish while it's starting to dry, making it worse than it was already going to be. Next, I try to sand it prior to doing second coat but I end up sanding through the first coat and the stain underneath... Painting's not my thing..)

I use rollers

just cheap ones from Bunnings, about $15 for a roller and a tray.

and $5 for a pack of two rollers.

main thing is I use foam rollers, and use a roller per coat. I don’t bother cleaning them as they get hard in some places and not so you end up with uneven coverage.

with applying..

i dip it in the tray then lightly roll it on the rolling bit. Press to hard and you lose all the product and end up dipping it loads of times.

once the product on the roller a squish the ends of the roller to remove a bit. I found this helps get rid of the edges.

Next I only do long rolls, basically to get as much coverage as possible and get as much on as I can. From there I just keep rolling until it’s all even.

probably spend more time rolling it even then just getting the stain on.

For the final coats just thin them down. Just check what product your using but mine I can just use turps.

ill probably thin mine right down and do three super thin coats to finish it. Maybe sand with some 800-1200 grit between.

good thing about the foam rollers is, when it starts getting tacky you can see by how much it tacks to the roller, how even the coverage is

Bought a house last year so I’m a lot more budget minded now, that and what I don’t spend on the house gets spent on cars so every cent counts

being a Jew on everything but cars I’ve decided to try my hand at some super tidy furniture for the house on a budget.

started with a dining table.

luckily I did some elect work for one of our fabricators at work so I’m getting all the legs steel, fabbed and painted for free

picked up a pine laminate slab from Bunnings.

$115 for 2100x900 and about 30mm thick

using the stain in the picture plus a clear with Saturn finish. They were around $70 a tub.

Probably only use about 1/3 of them for this so about $45 worth of stain for this.

so about $160 so far for the table

didnt sand the slab at all, wanted to leave the high spots and rough bits.

did the first coat super thick with just the jap black, and actually looked a lot darker in person then the photo, darker then the last photo

sanded it all back with worn out 120 grit, this took all the high spots back and brought through the grain and edges.

next mixed the clear and jap black 1-5 in favour of the clear and that’s how it sits now.

ill probably give it another coat with 1-4 and see how it looks.

plan is to get another two slabs. Cut one into two 450x450 side tables and 1650x900 cut to width for coffee table.

the last into 2100x450 for two tier TV table.

legs will all be retangular box tube, painted in Saturn black and the timber to all be the same stain and thickness

I’ve got an assortment of T F And G cyl I can measure if you need. Those cyl look pretty wide compared to the ones I just did on my hilux though.

just weld tabs on the shoes lol

On 18/04/2019 at 22:11, cletus said:

ill admit to asking a dumb question here. but if anyone has some recent experience that would be good

how much would I be looking at spending to get this thing painted? not after show car spec, just tidy it up in the same white (enamel?) and sort out some surface rust on the roof before it goes bad. usual stone chips and stuff

 

id paint it myself if it was a matt colour, which I might do yet, ive had a couple of ideas

 

chur

 

 

 

 

 

Those jelly beans are on point 

19 minutes ago, scooters said:

can do it for sure. @Ashkellybarr

Just not Plastic... at least anodized there are plenty of non speed flow style out there 

That’s pretty much exactly what I was thinking!

Yeah that’s why I asked.

saw a photo of someone else doing it and thought it was questionable.

but at the same time proper bulk head fittings are expensive and still leave exposed terminals

Regarding fuel system wiring

changing carb tank to EFI with in tank pumps, using a large inspection plate for pump fixings

would a compression glad for cable through the plate be ok?

Can’t really find much aside from this blurb,

  2.3(16)
An electrical system within a low volume vehicle must be designed to have electrical equipment such as pump motors and solenoids isolated from the fuel
 tank and system.

and any other suggestions or things to watch out for with doing these mods to a tank?

cheers

ash

Can’t remember where, was otp 

remember it being it being super though