Ashkellybarr

Slowly getting less rustic

2k black for the door jams

Plan is 1k black base, 1k colour then a hardened clear over the top

18 hours ago, ThePog said:

$1500, that is a lwb safari chassis, plus a subframe, plus a 2.5m X 1.8m deck.

It's a no brainer, shit will last forever, plus I truly hate the thought of things rusting after my no doubt shithouse efforts to paint it after all the work I have put in.

Yeah that’s pretty good! Mine will be bare frame and that’s it so might be even cheaper. Thanks for the input

23 hours ago, S124AB said:

I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me.

Worth talking to as well.

Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.

What did the place in puke sting ya?

23 hours ago, ThePog said:

I will have pricing to zinc arc spray my projects' chassis and deck etc tomorrow, I can let you know how it stacks up.

Yes please!

Hi guys. Looking for recommendations on how to tackle the chassis frame.

ive got two options for stripping

either acid dip the whole frame Or wire wheel

and two options for sealing

either paint, epoxi dp40 the 2K Black it. Or, powder coat it black

its a 4wd and gets abused, I haven’t done something like this before so want to “do it right, do it once” and make sure it lasts for years.

all pro’s and cons welcome, thanks in advance for help and ideas

Tried another carb. No luck, given up and moving forward with motor swap.

mate 4 doors down had a Crain so walked it up the rd with beers in hand this evening.

34 years and multiple beach missions the motor had pretty much welded it self to the gearbox. Couple screw drivers and a dog bar later she’s out. I’ll need to wait till next week to get rid of the block as the head and bolts ons have already filled the bin.

plan.. bolt motor to box on garage floor to test clutch release before putting it in.

finish engine loom and change body wiring to suit, then take it from there, hopefully get some better weather so I can deal to the frame and under body

Mint! All timed and torqued up

just need to scrap the goo off and goo the cover and sump back on.

gona get a replacement water pump too as that doesn’t feel to flash. And ditch the oil feed sandwich plate for an oil cooler one. Then take the turbo feed off a T where the pressure sender is. Plan was to run a remote pressure sensor anyway

Actually needed to take more off then I marked up.

got everything loosely in place and put the cover and sump back on for the night.

hopefully find my torque wrench then set timing and final tighten up this weekend... if I can find time to my self..

Commercial kitchen oven and plate steel?

Needed a chair in the garage.

old recaro + $30 warehouse office chair + flat bar

On 14/07/2019 at 05:40, BlownCorona said:

Cheers!

Yup that's the plan. Most of the house is already done. 

White walls, black doors. Carried that monochrome theme through the rest of the house with dashs of red throughout. 

Sorry Ash for the thread hijack! Cheers for the advice though. Worked a treat 

Haha no stress mate! Looks bloody good!

Still busy with life  hopefully find time to put this in.

Type S oil pump upgrade for the k24. Apparently the k24’s oil pump cavitates at higher rpm and the k20 oil pump is better designed for high rpm.

its a shame it’s cast alloy because I wanted to extend the sump to be deeper and lengthen the pickup to suit.

can get one of these to help stop the oil traveling up the timing chain cover, and I’ll look into modifying the sump as I’m phoning to be pretty paranoid about the oiling system.

oil systems probably gonna cost more then the motor with all the bolts ons haha Owell 

https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-oil-pump-baffle

1 hour ago, My name is Russell said:

Looking good, recommend learning how to use a router and giving laminated ply a go. very on trend lol. about $120 for a sheet, not bad IMO. Flip with a router you can make so many things! 

I just made this from scratch (Stripped the room bare), learning how to router on the job. Don't recommend Bunnings ply! 

GIB plastering isn't all that difficult either. 

(handles still to be fitting to all draws) 

 

Awesome stuff man!! Looks really good!

It’s amazing what you can do with ply.

old boy builder I’ve been doing some jobs with just built a walk in pantry out of it. Used 3 sheets at $67 a sheet.

just a skill saw, glue, screws and drill. 

Their getting cupboard doors done by a cabinetry place when they get the kitchen done, but super impressed with what he could do with so little

Here’s some better photos of the finish.

probably used more clear on it then the black.

sanded it with 600gr between the final coats and thinned it right down 

12 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

i did a test spot and it was like putting Tar on. mines a specific flooring version but will see how it goes and perhaps mix some clear for a 3rd or 4th coat. 

im wondering if it needs to be warmed to apply given how cold its been down here recently? how was yours? might try thinning it out too. 

Yeah it is super thick. It’s meant to be thinned down.

you can actually add quite a bit of thinners to it and it’s still sweet. Good for the following coats.

helps it self level and release bubbles too.

and it doesn’t seem to slow down the drying time either. Once rolled out and a bit of air flow it goes tacky pretty quick.

if you mix up to much in the tray with thinners and have left overs after a coat don’t be afraid to just poor it back in the pot. Painter mate said it’s fine  and I’ve done it with this no issues

On 04/07/2019 at 21:05, BlownCorona said:

that looks great. in the next week or two im gonna be jamming alot of that black japan stain over my kitchen floor.

looking forward to the results! got me thinking i should use any left overs to make a similar coffee table!

Yeah mate super stoked with how it’s turned out.

it is super dark though so I’d definitely recommend picking up a pot of clear and mixing it for the added coats. And get 3-4 bottles of turps

straight jap black super thick for the first coat then sand it to get the grain.

then clear and jap black mixes to get it to where you want is the go.

heres some photos of it with the chairs I’ve just finish staining, still needs a finishing coat, witch will be clear thats thinned down a lot so it self levels and releases bubbles easy

Fab mates had a baby 6 weeks ago then been on a corse so the legs got put on the back burner for a while.

30x75 box tube.

110 degree angle.

i was planning on doing them square but he talked me into an angle and I’m happy he did.

i wanted something with a large foot area so it’s easy to slide around and with a large surface area won’t fuck the carpet.

still needs another coat of clear and I do the bar stools and dinning chairs in the same stain

excuse the mess we’re redoing our laundry atm so there’s  shit every were.

hopefully get onto the coffee table soon when funds replenish from reno’s. If anyone needs any electrical work done let me know

looks like a really well built car that’s had some serious effort and money put into it! I’m sure he’ll be happy to hear it’s out and about

Yeah I bought some off trademe, advertised as early landcrusier locks. But there all the same from that era

When I bought one of my cars it had all miss matched keys from doors to ign. Just took them to a local lock place and they changed all the pins to suit one key. Could be a solution if that locks worn to just change the pins out for new ones.

or just swap the drivers and passengers door locks around